Day 43 of 73. Nullarbor Cook and Rawlinna

I awoke refreshed from an unexpectedly good night’s sleep, the first of two on board that most epic of trains, the Indian Pacific. At 6am, I wound up the venetian blinds only to see a heap of derailed container wagons which had “come off the road” a month previously. The Indian Pacific on that day was ahead of the incident which blocked the line for several days. I wasn’t quick enough to get pictures. The journey west through South Australia and into Western Australia was through an interesting and very arid landscape which became increasingly flat as the day progressed. People saw dingos and the very occasional kangaroo. All in our carriage saw caravans of camels on both sides of the train. But for most of the time, scrub growth and boulders punctuated the flat dry, and hot terrain. Dusty brown/orange and green are the colours which come to mind recalling trundling along the world’s longest stretch of straight railway. I noticed a board marking the boundary between South and Western Australia. We called briefly at Cook, once a thriving settlement, a support community for the railway particularly during construction and at times of maintenance. Just four people live there now, but somehow it is not as desolate as I might have expected. I enjoyed crossing the Nullarbor Plains and tried to savour every rare moment. Dinner was served off the train at Rawlinna Station, under what should have been one of those clear starry nights. Some thin cloud prevented the spectacular night sky display I was hoping for. “Orion’s Belt” was clearly visible as were other stars which weren’t obscured by cloud.

Passengers were seated at long rows of wooden picnic tables, lit by individual L.E.D. lights. It was all very atmospheric as the train’s resident entertainer serenaded the diners with popular songs on his guitar. He was received warmly and a couple of people danced to Waltzing Matilda, a slow and haunting interpretation. All too soon, we were back on the train and continuing our journey westwards. As far as I was concerned, a unique evening the memory of which I shall treasure.

Thanks for reading, David

1 – 12 We were allowed 30 minutes while the train was serviced at Cook.

13 -16 Dinner on the platform at Rawlinna.