Day 8 Friday 7th June 2019 Arrival at Redhook, Brooklyn, New York.

Yesterday’s diversion to Halifax, yesterday morning was, for me, fortuitous, but ultimately, a tad expensive! QM2 was certainly put through her paces on the run through thick fog to New York. I noted 27.1 knots, not far short of its maximum permitted speed of 29 knots, on the stateroom TV. The seas were moderate and my “add-on” accommodation rattled like the set of “Crossroads!” That said, this is the finest accommodation I have ever had at sea, extremely spacious and comfortable. The eventual late arrival at New York provided a rare opportunity to deck-walk and relax at an acceptable hour, reducing the time between disembarkation and catching Amtrak’s Lake Shore Limited to Schenectady.

The booked car was not prepared to wait the extra two hours it took to clear immigration procedures. A couple from Devon were in a similar situation and, we ended up sharing an S.U.V. to our various destinations in Manhattan. For a short time, I feared I might just miss the train, but, as it turned out, I was able to check all my baggage in, and partake of a semi healthy lunch at T.G.I. Friday’s at Penn Station. Somebody owes me $65 for the limo!

It now seems an age since I was comfortable and secure on Queen Mary 2. The ride from Brooklyn, first to the Devon couple’s hotel, and eventually, Penn Station was, at times, spectacular with wonderful vistas of clusters of high-rises, the Hudson River and Brooklyn Bridge which we crossed over and drove under. Time was passed waiting in New York’s gridlock. I don’t mean to be disparaging, but I feel the city has seen “better days”. But the place does remain joyfully noisy and vibrant with a usual sense of urgency and “laid-backness” in “Shostakovich” harmony.

I am on the train now, and for this service, there are no reserved seats and thus, there is a “Euston-like” last minute scramble for seats. All the at- window accommodation on both sides in coach class were taken up – I was not quick enough. I find out that the train is fully booked. A failed in-bound train and “trackwork” have caused an almost 55 minute late departure from Penn Station. I discover that the restaurant car is reserved for First Class only. An upgrade to First Class means booking a sleeper and although perhaps around a mere $60 to Schenectady, I decided to remain in “Coach”. It’s perfectly comfortable, and I can enjoy the lovely river views and Catskill Mountains roughly as far as Albany.

The scenery from the train is as lovely as I remember it from 2014. Endless views of the Hudson River and further back, wooded hills and eventually, the Catskills.

For a second time, no car waiting at the station. A waiting taxi was a third of the cost. The train was around 50 minutes late, maybe more.

I am now settled in my hotel in Schenectady and I’m very pleased with the Hampton Inn’s simple but high standards. However, there is no restaurant, necessitating exploring a town I have been warned to take care in. I find myself in a noisy Chinese bar cum eatery. Not only am I the only Brit in here, I must be 40 years older than the next oldest here, apart from a couple who just entered. A central square island bar dominates the substantial eating area, with four televisions high up on a central drinks laden column. Outside, it is warm, perfect for al fresco eating. The Main Street is lit brightly with neon and other lighting. This really is the start of this tour. It was good to rediscover the astonishingly beautiful journey as far as Albany, where two vintage private carriages were attached to the rear of the train. Presumably these were the property of some billionaire.

(above) The Lake Shore Limited awaits the attachment of cafe car and additional stock to the front, and two privately owned vehicles to the rear.

(above) The Lake Shore Limited at Schenectady.

Tomorrow morning, I will, for a second time, climb aboard Amtrak’s Maple Leaf express. Hopefully, it won’t be delayed in the same way today’s train was held back. Arrival at Toronto Union Station should be before 8pm. I am told that the renovations are complete at the Station, but not at the Royal York Hotel.

Back home it’s 03.43hres. In Schenectady, it is 10.43. My body clock has yet to adjust.

(above)The “drinks island” at the centre of Zen’s Chinese Restaurant.

A healthy (?) option at Zen’s.

Inside the cafe.

Main Street, Schenectady.

With very best wishes,

David.

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