I was advised not to take the ferry to Skagway for fear of all return sailings being fully booked. I did feel there should be plenty of time; However, I felt that when in Edinburgh back in 2013, never believing at two minutes past seven, I had just missed the last train south. Getting stuck Scotland’s capital is manageable; I’m not sure about Skagway!
Yesterday’s excursion to Glacier Bay was nothing short of awesome, with a continuous vista, surrounding the ship, of snowcapped steep hills and cliffs plunging into the waters of Glacier Bay. Today, Queen Elizabeth called at the small town of Haines for the first time. There was a ceremony at the pier end, attended by the Mayor and local folkloric dancers.
Usually, when a ship calls at a port for the first time, gifts are exchanged between the local dignitaries and the ship’s senior officers.
Harry, the port lecturer, explained that the population of Haines is 2,000, probably the same number of passengers and crew on Queen Elizabeth. But, the town has quite a lot to offer the visitor despite its small but fairly spread out population. I walked around and outside the town for a while before settling at The Lighthouse Restaurant for a chicken caesar salad and two cups of pretty decent coffee. I doubt that I will do this little town justice. Unlike most towns and cities in Alaska, Haines is connected to the main highway system, a decision made during WW2 as a precaution in the event of a Japanese invasion. I assume this never happened.
Looking out from my balcony, Haines seemed like any remote settlement in Alaska. The distant road had traffic, buses were in evidence either for shore excursions or local public transport. I did wonder why a town of 2,000 didn’t come out in force to welcome probably the first Cunard ship ever to berth there. The civic reception was splendid, and the local authorities there, genuinely welcoming. I would learn, later, from somebody I bought a few souvenirs from that two or three cruise ships call there each week. Thus, the first arrival of Queen Elizabeth was no big deal!
See the difference some decent weather makes.
Haines did look somewhat uninviting this morning as like yesterday, low cloud and mist obscured much of what was there to see. Nevertheless, I had a baseball cap and waterproof lightweight coat (bought in Alaska three years ago) which would keep the bulk of any rainfall at bay. Strangely, when I awoke this morning, I didn’t feel inclined to leave the ship, and started watching a silly movie with car chases! “Ye Gods…you’re in Alaska” I reminded myself. I hadn’t booked a tour, but a walking guide of Haines gave me plenty of inspiration to just roam around the place. Suddenly, it wasn’t cold, and blue sky was aplenty.
The guide leaflet was a great help and was able not only to enjoy being here, but realise how privileged I was/am to be able to wander around such far off and remote places. I think the town will enjoy a bright future now there seems to be a regular flow of tourists.
Tomorrow, we cruise by Hubbard Glacier from around 10 am. I have looked to see if a small boat will be coming alongside as in 2019. So far, I have seen nothing, and realise that three years ago, I missed a great opportunity.
I enjoyed Haines, and wouldn’t object to coming back again, this time, exploring much further afield. On a clear day, the scenery is beyond magnificent!
Many thanks for reading, David, 17.59 in my room, having just departed for Hubbard Glacier.
David's Cruise 