Diverting at Flagstaff to Williams, Arizona (rather than merely continuing to L.A.) for two nights and then Tusayan for a further overnight stay was an inspiration.
Day 1 followed the somewhat late arrival of Amtrak’s South West Chief. Nevertheless, my much anticipated journey on the Grand Canyon Railway to the Grand Canyon did not disappoint. I now find out that the Grand Tour took us to one vantage point not available to the general public.
Then, Day 2, came the transfer from Williams to Tusayan arriving with about two hours to chill out before the Off Road Sunset Tour. What I didn’t know until last night is that North Arizona, being over 7,000 ft above sea level can, even in June, become quite cool in the evening. And much needed rain fell in localised areas giving rise to rich bright double rainbows.
Today, Day 3, was the Grand finale at the Grand Canyon. The more than six hour lengthy exploration of this natural wonder was nothing short of fabulous. My pictures do go some way to sharing this stunning experience with those who follow my blog. Right now, I am in a not very comfortable Flagstaff Station waiting for the 20 40 hrs overnight service to Los Angeles, except that now, it’s 23.44 hrs, and the train is not expected until half past midnight. A handful of passengers wait resigned to yet another impossibly late South West Chief. At least, I can have something of a lie-in tomorrow instead of having to leave the train at 08.00 hrs.
Here therefore are yet more pictures of the Grand Canyon taken today. Leo our guide and expert, a lady from South America showed the small party I was with, around as much as possible in the time available. Not only did we see the Canyon from various view points, we also learned about the geology of the area, and how the Grand Canyon came to be. We also learned about the trees, and shrubs, berries, and animals during a very informative and extremely pleasant picnic. This has become the highlight, so far, putting the Chicago concert a very close second, perhaps alongside the Kennedy Space Center visit which feels now, such a long time ago.
It is 01.01 hrs and there is little sign of the train for Los Angeles. Flagstaff Station is a strange place at this time of the morning with around 10 waiting for the train, some stretched out on benches appearing to be asleep and snoring convincingly. (Written the following morning on board the South West Chief running I believe to be around 4 hours late). What is sad is that the waiting area has repro Santa Fe posters extolling travelling on their prestigious trains, from what I gather, were five to California and the South West. However, there was something atmospheric about being “stuck” at Flagstaff at that time of night, with the noise of the town, the neon lights of various bars, cafés, clubs (maybe) and restaurants, with traffic streaming by on the famed Route 66. Freight traffic, Amtrak’s elephant in the room, roared by in both directions every few minutes. One such last freight train at around 1.10 am was closely followed by the obscenely late South West Chief. During the day, a Chicago bound South West Chief came to grief after colliding with a dumper truck at a remote crossing at Menden, Missouri. It seems the entire, (or most of the) train overturned as a result of the impact. It is reported that 3 were killed, 2 on board the train, and, 50 injured, out of over 200 on the train. This was Amtrak’s second fatal accident in as many days, the previous accident being in Northern California with again, 3 killed as a result of a collision with a commuter train.
The feeling of isolation and alone-ness was further emphasised when I found that my battery charger had inexplicably become damaged and I had very little charge left in my phone. The nice Amtrak ticket man at Flagstaff lent me his pliers and thankfully, I can now recharge my phone. I suddenly realised how reliant I had allowed myself to become on my phone.
I did enjoy a Cornish Pasty at a bar/restaurant which has an extensive menu of hot dishes at fairly reasonable prices. Each table against a wall had its own plug socket, which would have been perfect for charging my phone! Fortunately, I don’t have to go searching for an electrical store in L.A. for a replacement charger.
Being four hours late is, in fact, a great blessing, perhaps not for those for relying on connections or being at meetings. But for me, having the time in the morning to get up when I wish, and have all that extra time, as well as seeing the Mojave Desert, rather than sleep through it, and other countryside is very much an added bonus, well worth sitting it out at Flagstaff!
I fear some reading this blog may well be (justifiably) irritated by the casual and glass half full philosophy I have to this late running. The down side is, not only the inconvenience caused to those not travelling for leisure, but also the long term perception of rail travel by those who actually live here. I’m sure Santa Fe’s quintet of super trains in the 1950s were not subject to this kind of delay; or, maybe they were.
We arrived and left San Bernardino a few minutes ago. It is midday, and I am just about ready to get myself to the Roosevelt Hotel. Perhaps some sartorial rejuvenation is in order. My favourite white trousers look in dire need of replacement. Oh Potter’s of Buxton, wherefore art thou? Buxton I imagine!
I’m guessing we are around 20 minutes away from our final arrival at Union Station, Los Angeles. It is extremely hot out there. These are recent pictures taken in and from the Observation Car. (My guess was somewhat optimistic!)
The journey, for me, was much better than I had expected. Soon, I shall be on my way to the Roosevelt Hotel in Hollywood, maybe retracing the steps of much earlier in this rather grand tour. All my baggage is now on the lower deck, ready for an efficient get-away. Tomorrow night, I board the Sunset Limited for the two night, three day journey to New Orleans. Today, the train arrived at 13.52 hrs 5 hours 52 minutes late, meaning the same amount of extra daylight travelling, an unexpected bonus.
Finally, I am still walking for Christian Aid. I am well passed the 1.3 million steps mark, (of the original 1 million) and should achieve my revised target of 1.4 million, but only just! I plan to include the JustGiving link in the next blog or in the near future.
Many thanks for reading, David, now comfortably ensconced in the Roosevelt Hotel, Hollywood where my 7th floor room looks out onto the,Walk of Fame. At least, I thought I was, the A C machine is intermittent and noisy when it “kicks in”. I have played with the controls and hopefully silenced what might be a noisy fan.
David's Cruise 