Blog 833. Skjolden – Maiden Call.

Days 4, 7th September 2022

7/9/22

The voyage is going very well so far. No uncomfortable crossing of the North Sea, surprisingly warm and pleasant weather, and plenteous dramatic scenery. There is much packed into this seven night voyage, which on paper, might come across as “not out of the ordinary.” For our American friends, this is indeed a major travel event with fourteen days added for crossing the Atlantic, and some further days for visits to Belgium and France.

Yesterday, we called at the attractive town of Stavanger, where the number of museums and churches, along with pleasant walks would warrant at least a week’s stay there. There are boat trips to the more spectacular places.

Continued 8th September, 07.51hrs

I found little time to write yesterday; however, our maiden call at the tiny village of Skjolden (instead of Flam) was delightful. There was little or no breeze all day, and the sky appeared completely clear. After the coolness of the early morning, warmth from the September sun was aplenty until such time as it set behind the high banks of the Listrafjord once again.

Three images from the *Navigational Channel*, the red line indicating the course of this voyage. To summarise, we sailed east from Southampton into the North Sea, where we headed directly to Stavanger. From Stavanger, we would continue north along the south west coast of Norway, into Sognefjorden, Norway’s longest fjord, north into Lustrafjorden and eventually to furthest one can travel inland on fjords, Skjolden.

Skjolden rests 58°58 N at the far end of Lustrafjord, and has a population of between 200 and 300, depending on who one talks with. A single jetty can accommodate one large liner or cruise ship, and from what I gather, Skjolden has been catering for the cruise industry, rather impressively, for just a small number of years. Queen Elizabeth called there in 2011 on its maiden call.

At just over 6.30 this morning, I awoke from a dodgy sleep. Curiosity got the better of me; I opened the curtains and I was momentarily overwhelmed.

A hint of the sunrise, and the particularly fine day ahead. (Looking back from my balcony)

For such a tiny settlement, there was a surprising amount available to see and do. But I did get the impression that once QM2 had left at around 6pm, this little settlement would revert to the quiet place it is normally. Our tour guide on the bus did say that during the summer, the narrow roads are clogged up with tourists arriving mainly by car.

I chose a charming coach trip covering around 40 miles along the narrow but well laid road along the hugely scenic Listrafjord and several small tunnels, to the tiny settlement of Urnes, site of a small but highly decorated stave church dating back to the early 12th Century. Again, from what I gather, there had been four previous places of worship on the same site, with much of the previous buildings being “recycled” into the present church which has stood for almost 900 years…Ye Gods! The church guide suggested that the wood used in its construction would have been seasoned for around 100 years before building commenced.

This stave church, now just one of 28 of originally around 1,000 in Norway has been standing since around 1130. Much from previous churches remains evident in the existing building.

The North Wall with its symbolic carvings representing the conflict between good and evil, part of a previous church on this site. It is thought that the key shaped panel to the right, surrounded by symbolic carving was the West Door (main entrance) of an earlier church.

Still ancient, but a more modern post Catholic addition, from which, according to the Church guide, sermons would drag on and on.

At Urnes, a ferry is available to transport vehicles, including a bus, passengers and goods to Solvorn a “sleepy Victorian village, slightly larger, which boasts Norway’s oldest hotel, dating back to (I think) the 17th Century. Annoyingly, the photographic stops at Gaupne and Luster did not occur, nor did the promised walk to view the 715 ft waterfall at Feigum. We did stop at closed grocery store at the behest of the lady sitting next to me on the coach! I may try for a partial refund; Cunard Shore Experiences are not cheap!

Room for one bus, a car, passengers and light goods.

A final view of the Stave Church which to the naked eye, appears minute in the distance from the ferry.

Crossing Lustrafjord to Solvorn, with Norway’s oldest hotel behind the boat.

Despite my grievances, this was a most pleasant and enjoyable almost four hours. On returning to the ship, I walked into the village, enjoying the fabulous scenery and the up-to-now unique sight of Queen Mary 2 nestled rather incongruously in such a tiny settlement with such an awesome backdrop.