Author: davidscruise

This was a case of “right place, right time”. Reviews of the Royal York Hotel opposite Toronto’s Union Station, like anywhere else were mixed, some full of praise, others not so complimentary. I found no problem with the temporary location of reception, nor with my accommodation which spanned 500 square feet. I had been invited and encouraged to attend the opening of the re-styled lobby, at which several dignitaries including the Mayor would be in attendance. The opening would coincide with the the 90th anniversary of The Royal York Hotel’s opening on 11th June 1929, roughly the same time that my grandparents moved into their new home in Catford, which remains in “family ownership.” (I digress!). Those staying for the whole event “quaffed” champagne and “gorged” on birthday cake. We chose to “pass” on that!Ron and Tom had planned breakfast for the three of us. I was keen to be at this glitzy opening, thus, breakfast morphed into lunch! We positioned ourselves on the mezzanine and enjoyed a good elevated view of the proceedings. Because my stay at the Royal York had been extended due to the retiming of The Canadian, I was required to check in for a further night. By coincidence, and much to my delight, I was told that I was the first person to check in at the new reception area. I spoke briefly to a reporter/travel writer, and perhaps I may appear in the Hotel’s archive years from now!Instead of breakfast, we had lunch at a lovely French restaurant in the fascinating Distillery Area of the city, a location I was unaware of. (below)I was then shown the Head Office of a company I once worked for, Canada Life as well as both old and new City Halls, all within walking distance.We enjoyed supper at the Library Bar of The Royal York, little changed from when we were there in 2014.It was now time to pack for the three night journey on Via Rail Train No.1, “The Canadian.” However, I was ready for some sleep, and reconfigured my packing in very good time early the following morning; I was advised to check in between 7.30 and 8.00am, which I did.(Written Thursday 13th June in the Dome Car of The Canadian, 11.45, GMT – 6.)

Thanks for reading,

David.

Long established friends in Toronto had warned me that their city was rather like a building site, and thus challenging to get around. Union Station was also still being renovated, as well as much of the Royal York Hotel.

I arrived by train from Schenectady just about on time. I retrieved my checked-in luggage and a young female rail staff employee assisted me to my hotel, where liveried doorman Graham greeted me and had my luggage sent to my room. The grand lobby of days of yore was sealed off owing to renovations. I called Ron to confirm that I had, by now, settled into my sumptuous quarters on the second floor of the Royal York Hotel. Four nights there would give three full days during which to explore to my heart’s content.

Ron, and brother Tom would show me not only all that I wished to see, but also fascinating areas I had not heard of. One wish was to visit the C.N. Tower. Not only did they show me what now dominates the Toronto skyline, I was taken to lunch in its gently revolving restaurant, affording far reaching views of nearby Ontario. I was then taken to the Railway Museum, like York, sited where a depot with turntable was situated. I remember both in “railway days”. Finally, I was introduced to the magnificent Rigby’s Aquarium. Not high on my list of priorities, I was impressed rather unexpectedly by this huge and spectacular museum of living sea and river life. I cannot find the words to describe this wonderful attraction. The weather was warm and clear throughout the day, but this hint of summer was not to last!

To be continued: written on board The Canadian, Wednesday 12th June. 16.45 hrs (approx).

Schenectady has a brand new “Train station” (a term I have yet to accept!) The traditional style architecture is very easy on the eye, both outside and in. And downtown Schenectady is most pleasant and largely new. But my taxi driver warns me not to stray two blocks from the Main Street. And the guy in the Tickets and Baggage Check-In warns me not to stray too far from the station. Timidly, I wander only to the near vicinity for some photographs, and return with oodles of time, only to ascertain that the north bound Maple Leaf is running around 45 minutes late.

I commend the Friends of Buxton Station in their success at making the once dingy and featureless 19th Century remains an interesting place to wait for a train. I don’t know who put the millions of Dollars into the complete reconstruction of Schenectady Station. Actually, it was State funded. However, the “extravagance did not extend to the intended refreshment facilities or WiFi! Strangely, my WiFi worked there much better than on QM2!

A little glass cased exhibition displays fascinating items of local history. My night here was thus more than just a stop-over, and I do hope, but don’t expect to come back. The 10.24 am to Canada is still due at 11.09, and running late, it will not “hang around”….and it didn’t!

It’s a gorgeous clear sunny day with cloudless skies. As in 2014, the Maple Leaf is not a huge train. Business Class is at the rear, behind the catering area, just like before. I learn from the station staff who took care of my bags that Schenectady Train Station is indeed brand new, reopened just eight months ago, modelled on the design of the original “Union” Station, rather than that of the one that it replaced. I would love to see Buxton Station restored similarly to something not far removed from its original design.

Just one single window seat remained when I boarded the late running Maple Leaf. It had my name on it, and I am now enjoying the still lovely countryside from my window. There is no baggage car on this train, but the conductor has stowed them away safely. (11.47am)

(17.49/5.49pm)

That was impressive. Crossing by rail from the U.S.A. into Canada is scheduled to be around an hour and forty minutes. We arrived at Niagara Falls Ontario well after 5pm and were on our way on time at 5.45pm. That was in spite of our having to take all our luggage off the train, through customs and back on to the train. Although grossly inconvenient, this didn’t come as a surprise.

We are now in Canada with 1 hour 56 minutes left of the nine hour seventeen minute journey from Schenectady. However, we made a very slow start. The Canadian side does not quite match up to the abundance of glorious scenery one enjoys on the American side, although the now flat countryside is far from unattractive, something I remember vaguely from a similar journey in 2014.

August 2019 marks the 50th anniversary of my first trip to Canada and the U.S.A. in 1969. I would return to North America in 1971, but after that, not for 20 years when I would see the Californian coast for the first time.

Rather late in the day, I have decided to mark all of my travels during 2019 as a celebration of that first adventure when in just 16 days, some of our party of 49 flew to Montreal, from Manchester via Prestwick on a B.O.A.C. Boeing 707, the others, I think from Heathrow. If I remember rightly, we continued to Toronto, Chicago, Denver, Durango, Silverton, Colorado Springs, Denver, Kansas City, St. Louis, Chicago, New England (side trip) Montreal. On the way home, I would leave the plane at Prestwick and travel from Glasgow to Crewe on The Royal Scot, hauled by two what would become Class 50s. Electrification would consign such routine workings to history. AMTRAK had not yet come into being, making this a rare opportunity to experience North American rail travel towards the end of the era of the big railroad companies. I was twenty on that trip, and the youngest participant by ten years. Any still alive will be rather elderly by now!

This year’s adventures will have taken me around the world, and then some.

Rather a lot to read there; thanks for bearing with me!

David.

Yesterday’s diversion to Halifax, yesterday morning was, for me, fortuitous, but ultimately, a tad expensive! QM2 was certainly put through her paces on the run through thick fog to New York. I noted 27.1 knots, not far short of its maximum permitted speed of 29 knots, on the stateroom TV. The seas were moderate and my “add-on” accommodation rattled like the set of “Crossroads!” That said, this is the finest accommodation I have ever had at sea, extremely spacious and comfortable. The eventual late arrival at New York provided a rare opportunity to deck-walk and relax at an acceptable hour, reducing the time between disembarkation and catching Amtrak’s Lake Shore Limited to Schenectady.

The booked car was not prepared to wait the extra two hours it took to clear immigration procedures. A couple from Devon were in a similar situation and, we ended up sharing an S.U.V. to our various destinations in Manhattan. For a short time, I feared I might just miss the train, but, as it turned out, I was able to check all my baggage in, and partake of a semi healthy lunch at T.G.I. Friday’s at Penn Station. Somebody owes me $65 for the limo!

It now seems an age since I was comfortable and secure on Queen Mary 2. The ride from Brooklyn, first to the Devon couple’s hotel, and eventually, Penn Station was, at times, spectacular with wonderful vistas of clusters of high-rises, the Hudson River and Brooklyn Bridge which we crossed over and drove under. Time was passed waiting in New York’s gridlock. I don’t mean to be disparaging, but I feel the city has seen “better days”. But the place does remain joyfully noisy and vibrant with a usual sense of urgency and “laid-backness” in “Shostakovich” harmony.

I am on the train now, and for this service, there are no reserved seats and thus, there is a “Euston-like” last minute scramble for seats. All the at- window accommodation on both sides in coach class were taken up – I was not quick enough. I find out that the train is fully booked. A failed in-bound train and “trackwork” have caused an almost 55 minute late departure from Penn Station. I discover that the restaurant car is reserved for First Class only. An upgrade to First Class means booking a sleeper and although perhaps around a mere $60 to Schenectady, I decided to remain in “Coach”. It’s perfectly comfortable, and I can enjoy the lovely river views and Catskill Mountains roughly as far as Albany.

The scenery from the train is as lovely as I remember it from 2014. Endless views of the Hudson River and further back, wooded hills and eventually, the Catskills.

For a second time, no car waiting at the station. A waiting taxi was a third of the cost. The train was around 50 minutes late, maybe more.

I am now settled in my hotel in Schenectady and I’m very pleased with the Hampton Inn’s simple but high standards. However, there is no restaurant, necessitating exploring a town I have been warned to take care in. I find myself in a noisy Chinese bar cum eatery. Not only am I the only Brit in here, I must be 40 years older than the next oldest here, apart from a couple who just entered. A central square island bar dominates the substantial eating area, with four televisions high up on a central drinks laden column. Outside, it is warm, perfect for al fresco eating. The Main Street is lit brightly with neon and other lighting. This really is the start of this tour. It was good to rediscover the astonishingly beautiful journey as far as Albany, where two vintage private carriages were attached to the rear of the train. Presumably these were the property of some billionaire.

(above) The Lake Shore Limited awaits the attachment of cafe car and additional stock to the front, and two privately owned vehicles to the rear.

(above) The Lake Shore Limited at Schenectady.

Tomorrow morning, I will, for a second time, climb aboard Amtrak’s Maple Leaf express. Hopefully, it won’t be delayed in the same way today’s train was held back. Arrival at Toronto Union Station should be before 8pm. I am told that the renovations are complete at the Station, but not at the Royal York Hotel.

Back home it’s 03.43hres. In Schenectady, it is 10.43. My body clock has yet to adjust.

(above)The “drinks island” at the centre of Zen’s Chinese Restaurant.

A healthy (?) option at Zen’s.

Inside the cafe.

Main Street, Schenectady.

With very best wishes,

David.

Yesterday’s medical emergency necessitated a major diversion. Thick sea fog prevented the hoped for rendez-vous with a suitably equipped craft at sea. Thus, when I opened my curtains for a second time, we were docked at Halifax, close to Pier 21. It was foggy, damp, and wet. But, of course, curiosity prevented still much needed sleep and I dressed, not to take photos of the ambulance taking away the unfortunate patient, but to record this unscheduled port of call. As soon as what appeared to be the ambulance disappeared into the mist, a gap between the ship and the harbour side widened rapidly, as rain now poured heavily on to the outside decks. This morning’s miserable images are a far cry from those taken the last time I left Halifax on QM2 on a clear blisteringly hot day in 2015.

This morning, I ventured to an almost deserted deck 13, “out of the way”, then down to the Promenade Deck after we were underway. I joined Chris from our table for a spot of early breakfast before returning to my room for a shower and some more sleep. The trouble is that it is now past 9am. I rarely venture from my room at the early time I did this morning, around 6am. QM2 left Halifax at 6.50, almost three hours after the planned departure from the original rendez-vous. With luck, I won’t have quite so long to wait for my train to Schenectady tomorrow!

Views from deck 13Views from the Promenade Deck.More on this final day later on.

David.

At around 06.45hrs, that is a quarter to ten back home(!), after a good sleep despite “bumpy” seas, I poked my head through the curtains of one of my oversized port holes. The foaming sea was the colour of graphite, the sky, dull white and featureless. The creeking of my room, and the unusual noise of the water outside (The soundproofing is effective) gave me to anticipate mountainous seas, splashing against the glass. (not so). The navigational information describes these sea conditions as “moderate”. An hour later, and the sun is out, the skies clear, and the Atlantic Ocean “dark-ink” blue with lovely white foam creating an “angry marble” effect.

I don’t know if it did cool down last night, but as I write at 08.23, the air temperature is a welcome 72 degrees Fahrenheit. The maps indicate Newfoundland now opposite our starboard side and the land mass that is North America (Bay of Funday), now evident on the left of the picture.

Yesterday, I all but abandoned my diet. I did walk enough to compensate slightly. Lunch in the Verandah, a “once per voyage” treat, did the damage! A “partial” afternoon tea didn’t help and although I did forego potatoes at dinner, I more or less suspended the diet for that day. Walking, more of an effort that afternoon, was interrupted by convivial conversation on the Promenade Deck. For whatever reason, I felt a tad mixed up and messed up. But not so this morning as the sights of a lifetime beckon over the remaining nine weeks. Now the sun’s out, I do have to start packing for the next leg of this extensive tour. I expect to write more towards the end of the day. This evening is the final Gala (formal) night, themed as a Masquerade Ball. Shall give my white tuxedo a second airing tonight. The trouble is, it makes me look like the “ice cream man! “This evening, I donned my black tuxedo for the gala dinner and the penultimate night “Parade of the Chefs”. I suppose for first-timers, this livens up the Britannia Restaurant. Not all 140 chefs took part in the parade, which, after seeing 20 or 30 times, for me is a tiresome interruption which was much better in pre H & S days when a huge sparkler laden fire risk Baked Alaska led the walk-about. Tonight’s parade was met with the usual serviette waiving enthusiasm with guests leaving their tables to photograph the event. I started packing tonight, and I see no reason for any last minute panic. I spent the day more or less alone, attending the superbly illustrated 60s music lecture by Steve King, whose delivery was extremely good. This was followed by Brian Hawley’s presentation on the first Queen Mary. Excellent it was, too.Before dinner, I watched the movie “The Greatest Showman”, which had its premier on board Queen Mary 2 not so long ago, perhaps 2017. I thoroughly enjoyed this film charting the chequered establishment of the Barnham Circus in the late 19th Century.I don’t think the air temperature reached the 72 degrees Fahrenheit indicated on the TV. Nevertheless, it was possible to bask in the sun despite fairly strong winds from the North West. All in all, a very good day, tinged with flashes of sadness as I remembered Richard C. Faber Jnr., from Manhattan, unfortunately no longer with us. He was brilliant company on previous voyages, and I learned so much from him during the small number of years we were in touch. Finally, we are heading towards Halifax Nova Scotia owing to a critical medical emergency. We shouldn’t be docking there; the plan is for an emergency craft to rendez-vous with QM2 at 4am.The illustration below shows the ship diverting to a north westerly course towards Halifax.

Time to put my watch back a fourth hour.

Thanks for reading,

David.

This crossing is far from tempestuous and, as we steam towards New York, the sun is more evident, and the temperatures slightly enhanced at 61 degrees Fahrenheit. The navigational information on my stateroom television indicates that Newfoundland is off our starboard side, but certainly not within sight.The Captain’s noon-day address confirmed the much improved weather was due to our crossing the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. I remember this unlikely warmth during a winter east-bound crossing in January 2014. Slightly less calm seas are forecast for later tonight and tomorrow morning as we encounter a trough of low pressure, and a further cooling influence.

I was joined for lunch in the Verandah restaurant, formerly Todd English, by a new found friend (mentioned previously) who works for my old employers, Arriva Trains North. This was all extremely pleasant. Service was impeccable, but she was “horrified” at being addressed as Mrs. Nevell!

When I awoke this morning, at some daft silly hour, the pure white of a sea-fog was all that greeted me through those “portholes on steroids”.

But, I was too late to whip up to deck 12 for an earful of QM2’s fog warning, pitched to be audible from 10 miles; the mist dispersed rapidly, leaving the most pleasant day as promised on channel 45 of the stateroom TV.I have not yet become tired of my single cabin. The brochure tells me it measures around 178 square feet. But not even the brochure photographs do this accommodation justice.

I was refunded, generously, a huge amount of internet time, after, for a second time, forgetting to log off the ship’s internet. I think this must be a very frequent occurrence; I have spoken to several passengers to whom this has happened.

Not in need of food, but desiring several cups tea, I ventured to the Queens Room where afternoon tea is served at 3.30, at least each sea day.

We were serenaded by the “church pianist” whose background music was unobtrusive but added to this daily treat.

This is astonishing. Outside my window, I see tens of white and grey birds. I do wish I knew what I was looking at. They are not very discernable in these images (above). I have taken some video in the hopes of preserving these unexpected sightings.

Time for a much needed walk before dinner.

Thanks for reading.

David.

This glorious voyage continues across a typically lacklustre ocean as noticeable north-westerlies continue to make their mark outside. Breakfast this morning was merely a bowl of oatmeal in the Kings Court, with plain yoghurt. Brian Hawley in his second lecture departed from his prime subject of ocean liner history, and gave a fascinating account of the Vanderbilt family from its supposedly humble beginnings to its almost unsurpassed heights of unimaginable opulence. The belief that money doesn’t buy happiness and contentment was evidenced in this informative presentation.

Below, I am going to attempt a few pictures.

R.M.S. at Southampton being prepared for her transatlantic crossing later in the afternoon of Friday 31st May.

Inside the cruise terminal

My accommodation for the next 7 nights.

Boat Drill.

Royal Caribbean’s “Adventure of the Seas” leaves Southampton, as seen from my stateroom.

Views from QM2 as she leaves Southampton.

My view for the next six days, with a Navigational Report from the current Daily Programme. I have just booked a brief Norwegian cruise in a deck 2 single stateroom. This is for August next year and is a mere seven nights. But I get to see the country I visited on my very first trip abroad in 1962, all of 57 years ago!

David.

Being Sunday, I felt I should attend the traditional act of worship which on this voyage was held in “Illuminations” a seated public area styled as a West End cinema, but adaptable for lectures, and now, a church. The resident pianist attempted Jesu Joy of Man’s Desiring prior to the start of what resembled Mattins, with all liturgy taken from the Book of Common Prayer. Captain Aseem A. Hashmi presided with commendable reverence. The service was well attended, and the hymns appropriate. I have yet to attend an on board service without the hymn “Eternal Father”. We sang also,”Praise My Soul the King of Heaven” was the opening hymn, followed by “Guide Me oh thou Great Redeemer” and a favourite of mine, “Abide With Me”.

I expressed, quietly, my appreciation to the Captain who greeted those leaving by the starboard exit.

My plan was to deck walk in the bracing north westerly breeze blowing across QM2 rendering rhe higher deck areas out of bounds. I called in at a gathering of solo passengers meeting for coffee in the Carinthia Cafe. My plans, few as they were, became somewhat altered, but I still got to Brian Hawley’s very well delivered lecture mainly focusing on Cunard’s Caronia of 1948. I know of one person still living who was present on Caronia’s delivery voyage before I was born, H.R.H. The Duke of Edinburgh who is listed in my mint- condition passenger list. I may well buy Brian’s book. We did meet briefly in New York, some years ago and very occasionally, I will purchase memorabilia from him.

All in all, an interesting day with a pre dinner multi-lap walk of the Promenade Deck.

I attended the “show-time” in the Royal Court Theatre with a companion from our dinner table. His comedy had most of the audience in spasmodic hysterics, and even I had to concede some of his material was quite funny.

I was very surprised (& extremely delighted) to meet somebody employed by the same company from which I had retired less than two years ago. A very unexpected coincidence!

So endeth Day 3. Crossing a third time zone at 2am means that I shall be awake even earlier tomorrow.

I shall attempt to publish some illustrations. But, twice, I have forgotten to log off the ship’s internet. I should know better!

It’s now the “morning after”. At home, it’s almost midday. Almost half way across the Atlantic Ocean, it’s time for breakfast.

David.

So far, I am enjoying this voyage almost as if it was my first adventure into the realms of ocean liner travel. Most of the people I have encountered during the first two days are indeed enjoying their first voyage, and exploring this huge ship, realising that within the six full days at sea, there will be more to discover should they chose to travel again on QM2. The shops appear busy with curious “punters” indulging in addictive retail therapy. I am not quite so impressed with the “memorabilia” on offer, which perhaps is a good thing. The goodies I once brought home from early Cunard voyages could well end up in a skip as my home is cleared hurriedly following what I hope is a far-in-the-future demise!

Today as we head into deeper waters, the sea is leadened, the sky obscured by mist, and temperatures indicating the indifference of the Almighty. A lesser ship would bounce around in the moderate seas we are slicing through with very little turbulence.

As on previous cruises, the on board internet is just not worth the bother. I did manage to settle an outstanding eBay invoice, the last item joining my collection being an undated L.M.S. menu from The Royal Scot, a once famous train which even in my later years still ran between London and Glasgow.

My stateroom is extremely well placed in the ship, just seconds from the Britannia Restaurant, shops, and Queens Room, in a small corridor with doors at each end discouraging entry from passengers merely passing through. Thus, my accommodation is in a wonderfully quiet part of the ship. And I can, from my cabin, enjoy views of the Atlantic ocean from low down in the ship through the large windows which were once part of a public room.

Like most on board, I wandered around exploring, but also spending far too much time in the comforts of my own “space”.

So far, I have been unable to publish my blogs, but I shall keep trying each day.

A departure from my strict self imposed diet was, thankfully, less successful when I joined a party of French and Belgian passengers for afternoon tea in the nearby Queens Room. We were serenaded by a string quartet of young musicians. I got away with one scone, a very thin layer of clotted cream and a smidgen of jam. Fortunately, the scones are tiny but delicious.

I indulged in a morsel of retail therapy myself, stocking up on razors and factor 50 sun cream.

This evening, guests in “steerage” are invited to meet the Captain at two receptions in the Queens Room. I presume the champagne will flow, but it does occur to me that all this has been factored into the cost of the ticket, along with any canapes on offer. Actually, I don’t mind. Crossing the Atlantic by sea is more than just a passage to New York. And the performance Cunard stage each time is different. Even the food rarely becomes tedious. It’s good to be back!

DN 1/6/19 18.30hrs.