I had a super trip on The Ghan. Much of this, I may have written about previously. However, a journey on the Ghan is worthy of the fullest account I can bring to mind. Right now, I am on a very quick flight to Melbourne, less than an hour, with a “promised bumpy approach!” (12.17hrs Adelaide time). I think it’s half an hour later in Melbourne! And it’s Sunday; I must seek out a church. Surviving that flight over Ayers Rock, I have much to be thankful for!
Already, I have described the first day on The Ghan, being coached from the Mantra Hotel in Darwin to a purpose built rail terminal where, for the first time, you get to be awed by the sheer size and length of the train which will be your “home” for the next three nights, nearly 4 days. Your large luggage is stowed away until the end of the journey, and remains inaccessible throughout. I took on board a small suitcase and shoulder bag, far too much for my immediate needs! And I must confess to initial concern about how tiny the Gold Service Single cabins are. But I did figure I would be able to “jig-saw” my way in and out when required. My seat faced the direction of travel, and at night, the made-up bed lined up against the window. Venetian blinds acted as very effective curtains between two pains of double glazing, operated by a handle at the top right hand corner of the window, reminding me of the short-lived Midland Pullman which ran Manchester Central and London St. Pancras between 1961 and around 1965, whose windows were of similar arrangement. (We are dropping into Melbourne now, and how glad I am not to be in a tiny prop-plane! I am no longer phased by the turbulence, which today, precluded the service of hot drinks). Virgin Australia very kindly bumped me up to Economy X, i.e. priority boarding and extra legroom. The flight was routine. Apparently, Melbourne is just half an hour in front of Adelaide.
Back to the Ghan.
The train left Darwin at precisely 10.00. We trundled gently south, enjoying our first lunch in the Queen Adelaide dining car. All the dining cars in Great Southern’s fleet appear to bear the same name; it remains to be seen whether the interiors are identical, this I shall ascertain when finish my rail travels on the Indian Pacific between Adelaide and Perth.
We were allowed time to settle into our private,and (in my case) very cosy accommodation. There was just enough room for my two pieces of carry-on luggage, a miniature wardrobe for one jacket, and other storage areas the very limited space would allow. In fact, the compartment exhibited brilliant design and proved adequate for purpose.
In time, one of the friendly train staff called with a list of optional tours one could chose from. Most were included in the fair; those involving aircraft carried an “upgrade” surcharge. And the trip to Ayers Rock attracted a substantial surcharge of $1,249! I calculated that, to return to Ayers Rock on a specific visit from the U.K. would be several times this hefty charge. I have described, already, the first off-train excursion to Katherine. The destination was fine, scenic idyllic etc., but the tour guides had far too much to say, which irritated rather than informed. This was not a problem with the tours that followed. But, these guides were no less informative and were a joy to have as “leaders”.
You will have guessed or already ascertained that I did sign up for Uluru, the Aboriginal name for Ayers Rock. I had been determined to set eyes on this incredible geological monolith, which I understand, like an iceberg is much bigger out of sight than that which rises from the ground. I had no misgivings about the flight; I looked forward to this rare opportunity to see Uluru from above. This was a full day trip, which sadly, had us not seeing the Rock at sunset, when it’s colours richer and change as the sun goes down. We arrived at the airfield, where around three or four small aeroplanes were waiting to take the maximum number of participants allowed to join this “day of a lifetime”.
I was one of three in our six seater prop-plane. The pilot exuded confidence and authority as well as being welcoming and reassuring, particularly when the turbulence kicked in. I forgot any unexpected misgivings on the outward flight; the whole thing was a miracle. With both phone and camera at the ready, I was recording the wondrous sights of a remote vast desert, bits of vegetation here and there, dirt tracks which seemed to lead nowhere and very occasional signs of life, like toys, 6,000 feet below. I never was so thrilled and apprehensive at the same time. Then came the salt lakes, looking like vast areas of white opal without opal’s vivid colours. In the distance, a faint silhouette at first, the unmistakable profile of Ayers Rock. Like a crescendo in music, Uluru manifested itself increasingly as we flew ever closer. In minutes we were viewing The Rock from every angle, before, as a kind of bonus, we flew further to another spectacular rock formation I am informed are the Olgas. All these are illustrated in my previous blog. Eventually, after almost two hours, we touched down at a remote airfield where road transport was waiting to take all participants for a picnic lunch in a covered area overlooked by The Rock. After we finished our Ghan packed lunches, we were taken to a couple of locations at the very foot of Ayers Rock, as well as being driven around its base. It was as if we were the only ones there….very wonderful. Being mid afternoon, the colours were not quite as,dramatic as they would be later in the day. But, that mission was accomplished to the fullest possible and I returned with my two flying companions back to the airfield where we boarded the planes at the beginning of the trip.
That wasn’t the end of the day. In the evening, the train’s entire compliment of passengers were taken to a barbecue dinner at the location the Australian Telegraph was established in the 19th Century. One thing that wouldn’t go away throughout the day was a state-wide infestation of (thankfully harmless) flies. They were everywhere, and from outside, it must have looked amusing as everybody was engaged brushing these insects away. They buzzed all round Ayers Rock, every time we were not on the coach, and particularly during the early stages of our al-fresco dinner. When the temperature dropped as the sun went down, the infestation also disappeared…until the next day. During dinner, we were entertained by a most enjoyable country band, educated in astronomy by a fluent and communicative presenter, pointing to the stars with a laser beam. (That was incredible). There were other “history lessons” which unfortunately, I missed owing to having needed to search for the “bathroom”. Camel rides were on offer before and during dinner. I declined the opportunity, suddenly feeling alarmed at how high I was going to be on the back of one of these. I declined a similar opportunity last year at Petra! The entire evening was a brilliant piece of organisation and most unusual. Towards the end of the night, some staying to the end danced to the band as they played a selection of well known pop songs. All in all, a night to remember, a very special treat.
So then to the last full day. On this day, I would travel with new found acqaintances over the desert lands similar to those I was seeing from above, the previous day. We ventured to the opal mining settlement of Coober Pedy, where because it is so very hot, many inhabitants still live, work and worship underground. We had our lunch underground, and excellent it was too. I understand there are a million shafts from where opal is still mined, more mechanically these days. I have to say that I found the opal souvenir shop eye wateringly expensive; a piece was interested in was $100,000….£60 grand! Although far more reasonable, I did resist the temptation to buy an opal faced watch. We visited an underground home (possibly a mock-up) complete with lounge, kitchen, TV and unique sleeping accommodation, a mine where our tour guide had worked, an underground church (Serbian) and had our midday meal underground. Coober Pedy is completely self sufficient, with independent water and electricity supplies not connected to the Australian Grid. A most interesting and, again, unusual day.
Final dinner was in the dining car, as was brunch the following morning.
The Ghan is one way of seeing “off the beaten track” Australia. So, of course is driving, or crossing the Continent on buses. The train is a destination in itself and makes for a very convivial few days. It does attract repeat business. Great Southern are introducing a new service in April, which I suspect may be a replacement for the Overland, whose future I fear is limited. “The Great Southern” will run between Adelaide and Brisbane, via Melbourne and Canberra. A future treat methinks.
Today, I find myself in Melbourne. Much to my dismay, catching the steam train from Belgrave tomorrow at 11.10 means having to be up before 7am. And the next day, I am supposed to allow up to two hours for boarding The Overland for Adelaide.
Tonight, after a little exploration, I found this lovely Italian eatery, the Spaghetti Tree. (I have the business cards to prove I have NOT been April fooled – in March!) The much needed lunch/dinner was delicious. Rather than ask me to vacate my table, now that I have long since finished my meal, the waitress furnished me with a fresh bottle of water, while I completed this blog. But that just about brings my writings up to date. As I write, I read of a dreadful air disaster on a drop down display on my phone.
More news soon. Thanks for reading.
David.
Below:
1) City bus service to and from the airport
2) Virgin Australia plane. I think ours was a Boeing 737/800
3) A Melbourne vintage tram
David's Cruise 