David's Cruise

Monday 9th March: I am having to write this blog in retrospect. WordPress (or unreliable modern technology) somehow mixed up the paragraphs I had spent three hours putting together. As readers will already know, I am still unable to include pictures because they now take far too long to upload, thus consuming valuable on-board internet time. The following account of yesterday, therefore is in one paragraph. I had booked for the tour included in today’s title, and this was probably the best way of seeing as much as possible in the time allowed. I joined waiting members of our group in the Royal Court Theatre, passing several long queues along the way. The spread of Corona Virus is beginning to impact a little on our voyage, all passengers and crew being screened off the ship at the bottom of the gang-plank prior to being authorised to continue ashore. Needless to say, there was initial congestion as a result. Officials all had donned face masks, inland as well as in the port area.  I found myself a decent seat at the back of our coach, No. 9, and soon the incessant commentary was under way as we headed initially to Montecristi.  On the way, we were entertained by the sight of the huge statue of a lady Pamama hat maker in provocative pose! Yep! I managed one inappropriate photograph from the bus!  We continued towards Montecristi, where I learn is the home of the Panama Hat, hence the generously endowed statue we paused at on the way. We watched as the hat making process began with grass-like raw materials. Three or four stalls had numerous “ones we made earlier” for sale. We had been warned of prices in the hundreds of dollars, but I think the example I paid $40.00 for will do nicely. We continued to a viewing point, and were shown round a museum and mausoleum of some important leader. Information overload had kicked in almost at the beginning of the tour. We finished up at the museum in Manta city centre. What I did enjoy much more was a call at a place which made items from “vegetable ivory,” from a plant not unlike a coconut. When not yet ripe, the juice, rather like coconut milk makes a fine refreshing beverage. When the plant has ripened, this liquid becomes rock-hard and can be then be used e.g. for making buttons, or carved into any desired shape. This process I was intrigued with. Soon, I was back on the ship where I deposited my belongings. Jo called to tell me she was going walking on the beach; I offered to join her. She said nothing about going paddling; my footwear was thus inappropriate…trainers! She wished a photo of her to be taken in the water; the inevitable happened and said trainers are still drying on my balcony! Once soaked by a three inch high tsunami which stopped shortly after I got my feet wet, the “damage was done,” and I enjoyed the weird feeling of the sea’s balmy waters around my ankles! That trip to the beach was lovely, reminiscent of childhood day trips and family holidays to the seaside. Being a Sunday, the locals were out there, playing ball games, splashing about in the tide, having fun. Jo and I felt conspicuous, white skinned, silver (platinum in her case) hair and me in my silly Panama hat! Not one person bothered or took a double-take. I don’t know the implications, if any, of growing up, living and working in Ecuador. But there was a “feel good factor” much more evident here than other places we called at on the west coast. Eventually, and reluctantly, we made our way back to the ship. The few photographs we both took will help maintain this joyous memory. We decided against late sitting dinner in the Britannia Restaurant. Instead, we dined al fresco on Deck 9. The warm night air outside was gorgeous, as was the full moon which shone high above the ship’s mast like an off-centre halo. The seas were calm, and fine hot weather was forecast for today (as I write). We were joined by Richard and Barbara who had, previously, rescued me from a small number of organised shore excursions. I wish we had got to know each other before I had booked and had charged to my stateroom account a programme of shore excursions spanning the whole voyage. Eventually, they left us to walk decks 10 and 11, where an oversized draughts board is set up. Neither of us won at draughts that night! All in all, a rather nice and very unusual day at the unlikeliest of places, Manta, Ecuador. Thanks for reading, David 9/3/20.

I was slightly saddened to leave Callao, Peru yesterday after two hectic but highly enjoyable days exploring the city. Our full day in the capital, Lima, the day before provided the rarest of brief opportunities to walk along unassuming streets, across major squares, empty because of political unrest and therefore barricaded off, but available mainly to tourists and pedestrians. There seemed to be a heavy police presence, but I didn’t feel that I was about to be “disappeared” any time soon. The colour lit fountains and laser show were astonishing, but it was a good job I was able to video a great deal to be able to look back on in the lean days of old age to come.  The following day (yesterday) I took a Cunard coach trip to Casa Garcia, a splendid private house, constructed in 1912 in the “rather desirable” district of Miraflores.  The granddaughter of the original owner showed us around; I believe the house to be still occupied by her mother, now in her 80s. We continued to a rather lovely landscaped park, not enormous, but very pleasant with “Gaudy-esque” Barcelona tiled artwork in much evidence. This place afforded spectacular views over the Pacific Ocean with dramatic cliff faces. The weather was warm and clear.  But there were street sellers aplenty, and the persistence of one in particular became tiresome and I was losing enthusiasm rapidly.  The trip itself was fine. Fortunately, the Pisco Sour at the House was merely a sample taste, which is as well considering the around 45% alcoholic content!  I did re-acquaint myself with the not very diabetic friendly Inca Cola which was cool and refreshing.

(7th March 2020) …I was awake at around 7 am this morning, but didn’t surface for breakfast until after 9 o’clock. Unusually, Jo was not at her usual table outside; she had chosen to Deck walk in an attempt to shake off the “Cunard cough” from which she had been suffering for just under a week. I enjoyed my breakfast outside on Deck 9 with the unpalatable realisation that three weeks tomorrow, I should be back in Buxton, reaquainting myself with the crap weather the end of March can have to offer. There is also the realisation that perhaps I might have been in the southern hemisphere for the last time. I shrugged off all these negative thoughts and enjoyed the good fortune of being in such a fabulous part of the world. Sea life is making plenteous appearances; perhaps I should forego the whist drive once again! It’s far too nice to be indoors.

Lawrence from the Photo Gallery gave me an hour’s photo tuition today. That 60 minutes passed by very quickly, but for the first time, I am beginning to understand the numerous facilities and opportunities my “bridge” camera has to offer. 

We don’t cross the Equator until after our call at Manta, tomorrow. However, the Crossing the Line ceremony took place today. I have been to several of these on previous voyages and chose to give this one a miss, and dutifully join the whist drive.  I wish I hadn’t bothered, the subtle sniping of a very small few can become wearing, and I know longer feel the loyalty to carry on. 

Tonight is another “much anticipated” gala evening, requiring the donning of formal dress.  At least Cunard does maintain the traditional these regular formal evenings which certainly does maintain, or cling on to the “elegant old days.”  Buxton Festival used to have regular such fund raising events, but these seem to have become very few and far between. Rarely does the “tux” come out, other than on board ship.  Aiden and Jose are holding a reception in their stateroom tonight. I shall be accompanying a still poorly Jo whose cold and cough are persisting with irritating annoyance for her.

8/3/20. This was a most enjoyable event with, I am told, 45 attending at staggered times. Thanks for reading, David, 09.19hrs

(Started writing, Friday 6th March at 08.50 hrs on board the coach for today’s shore excursion, which I discover, to my horror, features the local speciality, Pisco Sour, which I now know, after several previous tastings, is a very alcoholic beverage!)

On long voyages such as Cunard’s “Discover South America” cruise of 78 nights, what starts off as a holiday, sooner or later, morphs into a routine, with the usual highs and lows normal life has to offer. For pretty much all of the time, one enjoys the hard to dream of routine of having your room and facilities cleaned twice a day, with your cabin converted to daytime use, and then during dinner (or a night out) having the bed made for whatever kind of night’s sleep the Almighty has in mind! The widest choice of breakfast in the world is available, in your room, if you wish, as a self service option on Deck 9, which many if not most people opt for, or served in the Britannia Restaurant between 8 o’clock and 9.30.  All this soon becomes a way of life and can be, eventually taken for granted. All day, there are things to take part in, lectures, dancing and dance lessons, an afternoon movie, live music and afternoon recitals, music quizzes, pub quizzes, show-nights, and “much much more!”  And in port, a plethora of shore excursions most of which are excellent, albeit a tad expensive. Or, you can do your “own thing” although Cunard can even arrange bespoke days out. You can launder your own clothes in one of several launderettes around the ship.  Far better to avoid those dens of gossip and fake news, and have your clothes dealt with professionally. And while all this is going on, one is teleported to what feels like the remotest places on earth in an alien time zone and a climate usually far more agreeable than that at home. Coronavirus is speculated as no more than a flu bug, but is bigged up like a train wreck.  There are irritations of course, like the lock on the toilet door which gave up the ghost after I had locked myself in.  Fortunately, after skilful manipulation, and around four terrifying minutes, I did manage to get out. I did fear suffocation before assistance could be summoned. Never will I lock a loo door again!  Of course, those whom I had kept waiting found it extremely funny, and I was forgiven!  A good job I wasn’t there from Wednesday to Saturday!

(7th March 2020.) When I did, eventually catch up with my friends at the foot of the gang way from the ship, I was told that shorts were not appropriate for what I would learn was a city tour of Lima including several places of worship. They day had not started well. After little discussion, I decided not to go back on board and change, but to possibly find a gents outfitters in the city. However, our guide assured us that would not be necessary, short trousers, as elsewhere in these climes is normal and acceptable.

Thereafter, the trip became one of the most interesting of the voyage; for me this was unexpected. We visited churches, squares, the main railway station from which one train leaves each month, and witnessed the first few minutes of the Changing of the Guard. Lunch at a cafe in the suburbs was much appreciated after a morning of sightseeing and some shopping. In the evening, after a freshen up at the ship, we returned to Lima for an incredible laser and water show; I had never seen anything like it, ever! We continued to another venue for dinner and touristic folkloric dancing and displays, all rounded off by a Peruvian horse show. At the time, I felt that this was a “best day ever,” Thanks to the wonders of modern technology, I can recall my time in Peru’s capital in “preserved detail.” Perhaps I may in future be able to write much more about my trips to Lima while were docked at the nearby port of Callao.

Much of this blog was compiled, hurriedly around 8am Sat.7th March.

Thanks for reading, David.

While at Alice Springs at almost this time last year, our train, “The Ghan” was stabled nearby. All the passengers had spent the day on off-train excursions, most of which were included in the fare. I chose to fly to Uluru to see what we once new as the very familiar Ayers Rock. I believe I wrote about this in some detail at the time. In the evening, all the passengers were treated to a very well organised barbecue at the nearby historic Telegraph Station, now a museum. Dusk gave way to night, and as we dined on fine Australian cuisine, a folk/rock band played and some revellers danced. The band took a break, and an astronomer, equipped with laser pen, pointed out the most important stars visible from where we were. I didn’t believe I would have that kind of experience or anything like it again.

Tonight, on board M.V. Queen Victoria, off the Peruvian coast, passengers were invited to join the Deputy Captain around the pool aft on Deck 9. History repeated itself, this time on a cruise ship with all the nearby lights turned off. It was good to be reminded of one can see in the night sky, which like last year, was obscured partially by light cloud.

Good night! David 22.37, 4th March 2020

P.S. I am still experiencing problems sending pictures. Apologies! David.

26/2/20 09.34 hrs.

I imagine that we are, by now, leaving behind the cool and dreary climes of the southern extremities of South America which we had sailed around in “some detail.” Today is the third of three when we have not gone ashore, and like yesterday, although much calmer now, the sky is obscured by sea mist; there is nothing to see at the moment. And, a crew exercise is just being announced. A good time to tidy my stateroom and bring any paperwork up to date.

I slept rather well last night, becoming awake at a respectable 08.30 hrs. Nocturnal “comfort disturbances” (trips to the loo) were at an acceptable minimum!

Eventually (just before 11am) I did leave my stateroom for breakfast on deck 9. I had noticed that my surgery in Buxton had tried to make contact. I took great pleasure in replying from “the bottom of South America,” to which they replied, enjoy the rest of your holiday! So did Flowers for You in Buxton, who had been trying for weeks to say they were unable to deliver my birthday flowers which I usually send to Pat in Ontario. That’s the second gift to her that has gone astray.

Tomorrow, we call at Puerto Montt, still in Chile. I have signed up for a day long tour which means getting up at 6am. Never mind!

Blog, below, completed Wed 4th March

As you should have gleaned from my account on Day 49, we didn’t manage to tender to the quayside; the waters were turbulent and it was easy to see from the way the tenders which were launched were moving “all over the place” that tendering ashore was far too risky for the Captain to authorise.

This blog, started on Day 48 is in addition to those already published. This incomplete blog published 4th March 2020

Yesterday in Puerto Madryn, the sun shone and temperatures in the very high twenties Celsius seemed to be the warm weather’s grand finale as, today we would continue our voyage to “The End of the World.”  The seas around Cape Horn are known to be treacherous but from what I gather, we are in the tempestuous waters right now with swells of 6 metres.  Damage has occurred on board with a massive window near the Winter Garden put through on Deck 9 and a kitchen door ripped off its hinges in the Lido, also on Deck 9.  A former engineer on the QE2 assured me these spectacular waters were far from unusual.  I had felt the ominous movements of turbulence during the night, and anticipated an exciting day ahead.  I do get the feeling our ship is being put through its paces at the moment.  Winds and sea conditions are set to abate, which, perhaps is a slight pity. Although summer in these parts, there is nothing between here and Antarctica from where the influence is coming. Worryingly, I am told of temperatures in northern Antarctica reaching 65 degrees Fahrenheit.  This could just be here-say. 

This morning, following my usual breakfast, I attended attended, with Jo, a full and standing room only lecture delivered by former Governor of the Bank of England, Lord King of Lothbury. He referred to HS2 disparagingly as “Boris’s Train Set!” It was an excellent presentation, as one would expect. He made uncomfortable comparisons between the Great Depression of the 1930s and the recent financial catastrophe of 2008 when RBS (my bank!) requested “bailing out.” If I remember rightly, its CEO disappeared with a tax free pension of £700,000! Ye Gods! (This didn’t come up in his lecture!) Richard Cowley delivered an illustrated history of the Tango.

Jo chose to teach me how to play backgammon, which, during the Force 9 gales, was most enjoyable. She tells me I have picked it up very well even though I lost two games out of three!

It’s almost 19.50 hrs. Formal wear is the order of dinner tonight. The gale is still blowing, but is expected to calm down at around 03.00 hrs tomorrow. No basking in the sun, however, for the next few days as we explore the southernmost extremities of the South American Continent. Right now, we are following the Coast of Patagonia, against the north flowing Falkland current.

Blog not completed

Published 4th March 2020.

The turn-out for this morning’s church service was, in fact, much greater than that pictured in my previous blog. I found myself seated next to a couple from Immingham who welcomed me to join them. She sang enthusiastically, he seemingly less so, and I did my best which, this morning was not brilliant.

The liturgy was, indeed, very similar to that taken from the B.C.P. with a few subtle changes. Our first hymn was “Morning has Broken,” which all except me, sang with a kind of forced immense joy. Other songs of praise included “Onward Christian Soldiers, and the obligatory “Eternal Father Strong to Save.”

I had resolved to make use of the pleasant day outside and after a most pleasant lunch in the Britannia Restaurant, completing at least six laps of the Boat Deck (two miles).

I would then view the setting sun from the forward facing Commodore Club only for a gathering of cloud to obliterate the anticipated spectacle.

On board, Sunday is very much like any other day, with events and activities to choose from throughout the day.

All the best, David. (revised 14/1/20)

Published 4th March 2020.

This morning, a peek through the curtains of my stateroom reveal a much clearer sky, and very little white froth skimming the ocean’s surface. Although there is still plenty of “movement” the almighty bangs and crashes of the night have all but ceased. In my half-asleep state in the dark hours, I did wonder if the ship was falling apart!

The film I saw yesterday afternoon was “Where’d You Go, Bernadette,” starring Cate Blanchett, Kristan Wing, and Judy Greer. As the titles rose from the foot of the screen towards the end, I was aware that I needed to lend a clean handkerchief to the lady sitting next to me….there were moments when I, also, felt the onset of a tear or two! She, in fact, was a table companion on the 2018 QM2 World Voyage.

It was a “full table” at dinner last night. Maggie seemed to have moved elsewhere; we were joined by a couple from Halifax (Yorkshire, that is, not Nova Scotia!) After dinner (tomato soup, poached salmon and vegetables, bakewell tart – forget the custard and ice cream…) I joined a few current table companions in a sparsely filled Royal Court Theatre for “Show Time.” For the next 45 minutes, we would be entertained by (and I quote from the Daily Programme), comedy star, Comedian Micky Zany….Micky Zany shines as a stand-up comedian…..Do not miss one of the most polished, versatile, and accomplished entertainers in the United Kingdom….” Never heard of him!” Actually, he did live up to what was promised in the description of his act. I tried not to enjoy the show, but failed miserably!

As I say, the night that followed was tempestuous and noisy and I was beginning to doubt the wisdom of my eye-wateringly pricey upgrade from a deluxe cabin with no windows amid-ships on Deck 1, (the point on board, least affected by the turbulence of the ocean and the howling of the wind), to an outside balcony stateroom much higher and further forward. As the saying goes, “pay more, sway more!” But, after waking this morning to a lovely bright day outside, and feeling refreshed, any such doubts “vanished away like the dew in the morn!” The clocks had been retarded by one hour at 2am, allowing time, this morning, to continue my blog. (08.53hrs)

Today’s Programme lists plenty of activities with which to fill the day. Former BBC Chief News Correspondent Kate Adie will address an audience in the Royal Court Theatre at 11.00hrs straight after the Interdemoninational Church Service in that same multi-purpose venue. I think some of the liturgy still comes from the Book of Common Prayer. Interestingly, there were far more attendees at church, than were present at last night’s comedy show!

With luck, the open decks may be accessible and I can enjoy the sea air.

More later,

David. Published 18.21 hrs 4th March 2020.

After this blog, I am going to publish earlier writings which might be of interest. These were either lost temporarily, or just forgotten. They may add a little bit to that which was published at the time.

Today was a welcome day at sea after a most enjoyable call at Arica yesterday, not only ending our time in Chile, with its enormous contrasts, but also being just three hours behind the U.K. which we have been since vacating the Amazon River, what feels like years ago! I still haven’t managed to upload photographs; if I have done it right, pictures now take far too long to upload, using valuable internet time. The weather was as it should be, dry and rather warm. At lunchtime, our revered Captain announced that we had sailed 17,373 nautical miles since leaving Southampton. We were, at midday, just 15 degrees 32 minutes south of the Equator. Tonight, the “baby captain” (as christened by the ship’s comedian) will be showing us the “sky at night” pointing out what might be visible only south of the Equator.

Lawrence from the Photo Gallery at the aft end of Deck 3 has been an enormous help teaching me how to navigate my over-complicated compact camera which actually is a remarkable piece of kit. The masses of instructions which came with the camera when I bought it just over two years ago are in every language EXCEPT English. I have achieved acceptable results over the years. Hopefully, I can acquire further “know-how” from a professional. Cunard, needless to say have charged me $49.95 for this hour’s tuition. To be fair, both photographers have afforded me a great deal of time already, and such assistance is hard to find back home. And Sam did a brilliant job of my birthday celebrations.

I have a long day planned for tomorrow; I shall be making the most of my two days at Callao. In the meantime, the next dated blogs are “retro” and should arrive straight after this.

Thanks for reading, David 18.19hrs off the Peruvian Coast.

I do love it when the further north one travels, the warmer it becomes; that is, of course, until one crosses the Equator….then, after a while, it’s down hill from there on! Summers at the southern tip of South America are generally more disappointing than those the same lattitude north of the “Line.” And, it takes a long time when making one’s way by cruise ship to reach sunbathable climes. Areka, just a few miles from the Peruvian border enjoys what I would regard as an ideal dry and year round warm climate, known locally as eternal spring. That’s an understatement; summer would be more accurate.

As ever, I relied on a Cunard shore excursion to take me to places of interest a little more out of town. Although it was not an early start, a filthy cold had left me drained and I was forever dozing off, thankfully at the back of the bus, out of sight (I hope) of Monica, our enthusiastic tour guide. She did her job well, at first taking us to a huge food market, taking us around and exploring some of the unrecognisable produce on offer. It was impressive and I am glad that I went. But it was difficult to work up enthusiasm; she had to make her self heard above the intrusive background music and general buzz of the market. Only those nearby could cotton on to her infectious enthusiasm. I am glad to have seen the inside of a Chilean food market, also business where olives are farmed and processed into whatever the market desires. Inside of a “tunnel” cucumbers were being cultivated.  Slowly, I was “getting into” what Cunard described as a “Taste of Areka” excursion.  At the olive plantation, various spreads were on offer as well as whole olives to sample.  I still don’t like olives!  We continued to a “village” where tourists could see various local activities occurring, as well as the inevitable souvenir shop and a dancing troupe who were enjoyable to watch, the women being most easy on the eye.  I wouldn’t like to cross one of them ‘though!

We continued, finally, to the city centre, most attractive with its market stalls and iron constructed Cathedral. I had intended to go back into town after dropping off my belongings, but I was still “drained” presumably by the after effects of the cold which appears almost to be gone. Three to four days is impressive compared to the three to four weeks I would be in discomfort on previous occasions. The tour guide suggested we also visit the “train station” near which a German built tank locomotive was on display. Trains used to climb into the Andes. A truncated service still operates once per day in each direction; even if I wanted to, the return journey was far longer than the time we had in port. Unlike Halifax, Nova Scotia, again now with the most skeleton of services, the “train station” at Areka was locked up. My appetite has been whetted for exploring rail travel in South America.

Really, I should have supported the local economy and had lunch in the city.  But, it was easier when already on board to get some food in the Lido.  I think I shall just squeeze in a final quick look around town; it does feel much safer here than elsewhere we have visited. 16.48 hrs – I have just over an hour.

For once nothing distracted me from leaving the and exploring by myself. I got to ride the shuttle bus which appeared to be hired in from the local public transport’s fleet.  I revisited, in slightly more depth, the places pointed out by my tour guide this morning, except the Cathedral. I managed to obtain a lapis lazuli penguin, which on board ship would have set me back over $300.00. Hopefully, the item I bought for $60.00 is the real thing! I took photographs all over the place despite the fact that I couldn’t have looked anything other than a tourist. I was left in peace to enjoy the hour and a half available to explore in.

I am safely back on board; quayside personnel prevented me from photographing the ship other than from the gang-plank. Between arriving back from the shore excursion and going ashore a second time, I partook of afternoon tea in the Queens Room, during which I started this blog.

Illustrations will have to follow at a later date. They will still not upload for publication. Perhaps WordPress may become aware of these issues and e-mail me accordingly. That’s a long shot!

David Tuesday 3rd March 2020, 18.54 hrs.