David's Cruise

Yesterday went well, or it did for me, apart from a filthy cold which was preceded by a tell-tale slight sore throat around three days ago. I had done well, 51 days without the Cunard Cough or any other complaints.

Today, I thanked the concierge for his part in making my birthday celebrations an “on board best-ever.”

But for Jo, and others on a private tour in Coquimbo, the day had turned out badly; many of their belongings were stolen from the minibus they had hired with an accredited tour guide. This vehicle was either locked, or attended, supposedly by the driver, for security during a photo stop and short break.  An I-pad which went missing was tracked eventually to an address in Valparaiso but has yet to be recovered. This appeared to be a very elaborate scam where the passengers were assured their possessions would be safe, left on the minibus. Those who had decided to take their bags with them were not affected; even the tour guide lost her possessions. Money and I.D. was lost, as well as a Ship’s I.D. card. It was mere luck that I had chosen to stick with a pre-booked brief shore excursion; I do enjoy these private tours away from the tight schedules of organized trips, and being bunched up with a coach load of others, and the sometimes irritating commentary over the coach P.A.system.

Above are a couple of pictures I am trying to send. Hopefully, I will be able to illustrate my blogs from now on.

Thanks for reading David. 2/3/20, 17.47hrs At Sea.

This morning’s three hour shore excursion might have just been “something to pass the time.” As we entered the attractive port of Coquimbo, Chile, I was aware that the date of my birthday celebrations had arrived finally. Cards and presents were beginning to come in.

I enjoyed the coach trip despite the routine queuing and having to be back at the bus after a certain (usually inadequate) time. Like the day before in Valparaiso, I found myself looking at grubby graffiti infected areas which I was rather interested to be in. Political unrest, some of it nasty, had been ongoing since October last year.

The streets had people trying to make small amounts of money anyway they were able to, selling “whatever” to drivers at traffic lights, juggling on street corners, marketing souvenirs at pop-up pavement outlets etc.

There were still trolley buses at Valparaiso so reminiscent of the long since disappeared Manchester street scenes I have only seen in pictures. Coquimbo (pop. 250,000) and the nearby La Serena (200,000) were similar but much smaller towns. We were taken to whatever places of interest they had to offer. One disgruntled lady passenger (from the U.K.) complained to the Cunard representative that the “tour had been made up from nothing and that she wanted her money back!” I usually have a jaundiced view of shore excursions, most of which, actually, are very good and show you far more than one might see independently. On this occasion, I was unable to agree with the complainant; what was she expecting in such a poor and unfair country? We did stop at places of interest, including an excellent market where I bought colourful clothing which will be brilliant in the cold climes of Home.

In this part of South America, I felt a harsh reality I would find hard to come to terms with, especially at the hands of the police or military. Of course, back home, we had/have to contend with Brexit, HS2, coronavirus…and now Boris Johnson’s baby! My opinion on that subject might indeed have me left at the mercy of the Chilean authorities!

That same evening, March 1st, I had laid on a champagne reception which would take place at the most attractive Yacht Club on Deck 10 from which far reaching views could be enjoyed through the floor to ceiling windows around the circular venue. What seemed like a huge number of waiters welcomed my guests with champagne and canapes. Cards and gifts were assembled on a shelf at the entrance to the Yacht Club along with a beautifully printed table plan for Dinner at three special tables in the Britannia Restaurant which had been reserved and set up. That which could have gone terribly wrong, in fact “went like clockwork.” However, before we adjourned for said dinner, with wine mostly from Varela Zarranz winery on the outskirts of Montevideo, I had to deliver an address of sorts. I chose to (tongue-in-cheek) emphasise the importance of this day, The 50th anniversary of my 21st birthday celebrations at the Strand Palace near the Savoy and Simpson’s! Twenty six out of twenty eight invitees attended; for whatever reason, a couple (from the “Mixed Grills”) failed to show up. I had met them on the Overland to Iguassu Falls and they were enthusiastic at the time about the event I was arranging. (I would find out later that they had not been informed of the last minute change of venue for the champagne reception, although I was convinced that I had left a note in their pigeon hole. Ammended, 1st June). A bit of a pity; nevermind! The photographer appeared both in the Yacht Club as well as at the beginning of dinner in my attempt to make sure this get together is remembered for the “weeks to come.”

Inevitably, Cunard must have done quite well out of all this, but, they did do all that was humanly possible to ensure the most successful of evenings. Huge numbers of well rehearsed staff, took care of both up stairs in the Yacht Club and in the Britannia Restaurant. The traditional rendition of “Happy Birthday” by a goodly ensemble of Restaurant personnel, seemed to draw the attention of most on the lower floor of the Restaurant.

Yes, a great time was had by all, but all too soon, it was time to vacate our privileged positions at the Restaurant. Jo and I were collared by one of my guests Adrian who had found himself alone in an almost empty Golden Lion Pub (adjacent to the Restaurant). The pub pianist, complete with artificial backing band belted out pop songs which the three of us would sing along to, with all the wrong words, until the pianist’s contract was up for that evening. Even I had partaken of a small amount of champagne and a particularly good vin rose purchased the day before. Shortly afterwards, drained of energy, we adjourned to our respective staterooms; I was in bed shortly before 2 am having watched “Impossible” a BBC game show I enjoy at home sometimes.

Thanks for reading, David: 09.08 the morning after!

We are heading towards good weather once again. The sea appeared choppy with plenty of froth as far as the eye could see. However, the current must be behind us as there is next to no wind on deck and very little movement. Although an air temperature of 25 degrees Celsius was announced on the Navigational Channel, it felt far cooler. Nevertheless, I allowed Jo to thrash me at backgammon, three times! However, I achieved a top score at whist the day before.

I used this sea day to complete my birthday arrangements for Sunday.  The maitre d’ has the wine in his care, and hopefully, we are expected, now in the Yacht Club. I am very impressed with the concierge who has been most helpful and efficient helping me “put everything together.”  Also, I ascertained that I have no shore excursions tomorrow. This gives me a day to do as I please.  Tonight, I have little inclination to explore; I may well feel differently in the morning.

Table companion Lorraine who joined us, I think while I was at Iguassu Falls leaves us tomorrow. She has two days in Santiago before the long flight home.

I learn that Buxton has its first case of coronavirus! I feel a sense of uncertainty coming on.

Day 51

I have no excursions booked today, and at the moment, I just feel like “chilling out.” However, I have no intention of “wasting the day,” and am very conscious that I may very well not be coming this way again.

Somewhat at the last minute, having woken up in good time, I chose to join Jo, Barbara and Richard for a second time on a “preferable” private shore excursion. Six of us shared a minibus for a trip to the port of Valparaiso, where Cunard ships have called during previous World or Exotic Voyages. We were shown, to begin with, the poorer end of the city. There was a degree of civil unrest occurring. The “have-nots” have issues with current government policies and this has given rise to much civil unrest at varying levels of disturbance and damage. There was a significant demonstration in one of the squares we walked through; we witnessed the arrest as a hapless young individual was flung into a dinged-up police van. I thought it wise not to video this incident. The ride on what I am told is a 1903 funicular railway was spectacular albeit short. It certainly was antiquated.

We continued to what is supposed to be a flower clock, past the rich district and eventually to a winery on the way home. We all enjoyed a tiny lunch in a smart eatery at the winery. By now, we were all on our way back to the ship. Although the glimpses around the city were somewhat fleeting, I did enjoy seeing many aspects of Valparaiso. I bought more wine for my birthday celebrations. I doubt that I shall see this part of the world again.

Back on board the ship, we eventually made our way to our cabins; we would meet up with Rich and Barbara. Tandoori lamb shank in the Golden Lion on QV made a pleasant change, and was a “best ever.” We played table tennis on deck 9, Jo and I. We were both hopeless!

More tomorrow, David .

Like a good boy, I was awake and getting up before 06.00hrs….yes really!  I hate getting up early!  There was plenty of time for what Cunard recommends as a  “hearty breakfast” before meeting Jo and assembling in the Royal Court for today’s all-day shore excursion. For a second time, we would be tendered into port from the ship. However, this was deemed unsafe by our Captain and watching the tenders which had been launched being thrown around in the swell, I was thankful the tender-call was abandoned even ‘though I had gone to bed and then got up early.  My travel insurance covers “failures to call.” I shall express my deep disappointment when submitting my claim…I am heartbroken that we did not call at Puerto Montt and that I didn’t get to Petrohue Falls and Esmeralda Lake. This would have been wonderful!) 

This is worrying, I have had little contact from my revered friends and family back home, and reports of the rapid spread of Corona Virus around the world has me pondering the wisdom of my being on a cruise ship, even a Cunard cruise ship, anchored aimlessly off the Chilean coast. At the moment, this is all very nice. Food in all parts of the vessel seems limitless except for strawberries, and oranges. Pink grapefruit occasionally make a guest appearance in the Lido buffet.  Those privileged guests in the “Mixed Grills” ie Queens and Princess Grills suites have no such inconvenience…yet!

I am sitting with Jo, at her favourite spot (when it is hot and sunny) at a table outside on Deck 10.  She is “yakking” to various family members on her phone, giving me ample opportunity to write my travel blog. Although the skies are grey, it is dry and far less cold than it was further south.  Puerto Montt appeared to be an attractive destination.  It seems we shall soon be on our way to the next port of call, San Antonio, with plenty of extra time in hand. There is, now, a hint of precipitation as modest droplets of water land on me from the heavens.

11.30 hrs. About an hour ago, the ornithologists among us (not me included) gathered on the open area forward on deck 9 in front of the gym in what was a vain attempt to spot a Pincoya Storm-Petrel, only named and described scientifically in 2013. I joined said crowd at 11.15; we all adjourned to the forward end of the Promenade Deck for further disappointment!

I shall post this now, and write later today.

Thanks for reading, David. 11.38, 27th Feb.

I thoroughly enjoyed looking at and learning a small.amount about the Pio Xl Glacier where we arrived at around 07.00hrs this morning. We had, of course, sailed through the night, and we would return to the Pacific Ocean the way we came, but, during daylight hours. As mentioned in my previous blog, the cloud and the mist became thicker, thus obscuring, almost, some gorgeous scenery. Suddenly, late in the morning, the mist and low cloud lifted enough to reveal the beauty of the Chilean fjords. It’s 19.00 hrs now and we are heading north up the Pacific coast. The remains of the previous storm which we endured a couple of nights ago are still influencing our voyage at the moment. Not for the first time am I opting for an early self service dinner in the Lido. I have little enthusiasm for Show Time afterwards. I shall go anyway.

The Concierge printed me some amendments to my birthday invitations. Jo helped me deliver about a third of them. The rest will be handed out during dinner, probably tomorrow evening.

I did go to the show, and took part in a “geography quiz night.” Our score of 15/20 was not enough for a prize!

It’s now almost 23.30 hrs. Time for some sleep, methinks. David.

This is an astonishing privilege, to wake up at around 07.00hrs, tune the TV to the “bow-cam” channel to see the Pio Xl Glacier in full, spanning the width of the screen. At 07.10 hrs, our Captain addressed his passengers through the ship’s P.A. system and the “bow-cam” channel. Outside, my balcony looked out onto what Jo might describe as a dreary and bleak landscape.

M.V. Queen Victoria came to rest around a mile from the largest glacier outside of Antarctica.  It looked no bigger than Amalia Glacier which we visited yesterday.  It was slightly clearer, and felt less cold than yesterday. However, a well delivered commentary over the “tannoy” explained amongst other detail I fail to recall, that Pio Xl Glacier could accommodate five cities the size of Buenos Aires, population 1,700,000. Even so, the Glacier is receding noticeably, according to people on board who have visited not so long ago.

The ship, like yesterday made several turns of 360 degrees providing ample opportunity for everyone to enjoy clear uninterrupted views. It was possible to discern the Andes behind the Glacier after some of the cloud had lifted. My first pictures were taken from the stateroom balcony before venturing down to the Promenade Deck and other open deck areas, mainly the stern of Deck 9.

Jo had joined me shortly after 9 o’clock; we had breakfast, took more pictures and watched as our ship positioned itself for departure at, I think, 10.45 hrs. 

We attended a most amusing as well as informative lecture on “Chile from Top to Bottom,” delivered by the now well liked lecturer, Richard Cowley OBE MA. I rather wish that I had attended all of his presentations.  Cunard have done extremely well in arranging a plethora of highly significant speakers and commentators for this magnificent voyage. Our journey around this part of the world took us to unusual and rarely visited locations. Few cruise ships, I imagine sail by the most southerly tip of The Americas. I wonder how often passenger ships circumnavigate Cape Horn each year. Sadly, we were not blessed with the rare clear blue skies I enjoyed in Alaska last year; instead, the white sea mist and low cloud are obscuring our opportunity to marvel at the Chilean fjords as we now head back towards a slightly bumpy Pacific Ocean. 

Neither Amalia or Pio XI shed any ice into the water while we were there. This would have been spectacular, if a little alarming, as ice-falls can create substantial turbulence.

The visits to both glaciers certainly added substantial and memorable interest to the voyage as a whole. I understand that the second glacier which we saw from 07.00 hrs, Pio XI is named after Pope Pious XI.

I need to have amendments printed for those invited to my birthday celebrations on Sunday. The Midships (Gin and Fizz) Bar cannot accommodate 28 guests. Therefore, we shall be assembling in the much more suitable Yacht Club on Deck 10 for champagne and canapes.

Disappointingly, the mix of sea mist and low cloud continue to obscure the majestic fjords of Chile. 13.14 hrs 25/2/20….Happy Birthday, Claire….I have just remembered! David.

Reading my two very similar blogs on Day 46, I must emphasize the drama of approaching the spectacular Amalia Glacier. All day, we were in sheltered waters, steaming through ever more stunning landscapes of wooded hills, and distant forested rocky snow-capped mountains. There were occasional little islands which added to the grandeur of the Chilean Fjords. The weather was typically cold, wet and misty; thus while one could see the surrounding beauty, the scenery, further away was a somewhat obscured by various low level mists which could hamper visibility, which I understand at the time was three miles! I had found the open decks too cold to stand on for any length of time; far better to view the gorgeous countryside from either the warmth and comfort of the Lido Restaurant, or better still from our balcony cabins. From the Lido, a great mass of white slowly manifested itself; we were now very close to the huge Amalia Glacier. What a sight, even through the mist. M.V. Queen Victoria would then make three 360 degree complete turns on it’s own axis giving most passengers ample opportunity to view the Glacier. We would soon be on our way, continuing along the Woodcock Peninsula, N.N.W. towards the Pitt Channel and the Bernardo O’Higgins National Park and the Pio Xl Glacier which we should reach by 07.15 hrs.

The exact route I have found hard to follow, but I hope my occasional map inserts, when I can, may answer some questions you may have. From what I gather, tomorrow will be another day of fine scenery which I hope will be rather like today.

With all good wishes, David

Last night, our Captain warned of nocturnal disturbance as we exited the scenic Magellan Straits out into the inappropriately named Pacific Ocean, where sea turbulence took over from the previous sheltered calm waters we were sailing through. My cabin steward had secured as much as he was able to while preparing my cabin for the night.

Jo and I enjoyed almost front row seats at a 1960s tribute concert in the Royal Court Theatre. The band from the Midlands, U.K. were first rate musicians, able to reproduce with a high degree of accuracy the once familiar sounds of my teenage years. It was hard to believe the aged audience were around the same age as me at the time! A few of us danced in our seats and clapped along at the behest of the band, but each time, such exuberance was short lived! Their encore was a convincing account of the Beatles “Twist and Shout,” so reminiscent of La Bamba! Thankfully, they were not backed by the Royal Court Orchestra as advertised in the Daily Programme. That would have amounted to complicated overproduction.

We adjourned for a drink in the Chart Room, one of our regular “places” midships on deck 2. An early night was appropriate after a full day and evening.

This morning, after the promised tempestuous night, I struggled to crawl out of bed. However, eventually, I did manage to complete, and send the remainder of my birthday invitations, order a birthday cake and arrange for photographers to attend both at the reception and the dinner to follow. Also, the Photo personnel identified two problems with my Lumix camera which I could not get to zoom and focus simultaneously. There is slight damage which may be repairable on board, but the camera now functions as it should. Earlier today we entered the Nelson Straits, arriving at the Amalia Glacier at around 16.30 hrs. We saw it at a distance through the salt stained windows of the Lido restaurant before eventually using both our balcony staterooms as vantage points. Sadly the weather didn’t really clear up; the views of the Glacier being slightly obscured by occasional mists. It was cold on deck, but now, refreshed with Earl Grey tea, I feel enthused to continue a deck walk.

Hopefully, those nice people at the Photo Gallery may just be able to enable me to download photographs to include in my blogs. For whatever reason, even at home, uploading pictures is often not possible. D.N. 11/4/20 16.28hrs.

Many thanks for reading, David. 17.36hrs Amalia Glacier, 24/2/20. NOTE : A previous blog on the same subject which I thought had disappeared, has reappeared. Apologies for any duplication!

The Captain’s promise of overnight rough weather was fulfilled in spades. My cabin steward, Krystian, had, while preparing my stateroom, secured all vulnerable items as best as he was able to, and placed my potted plant on the floor. Even lying down in bed, I felt the need for a sea-sick pill. It did help, not a lot! Right now, at 09.49 hrs, the sea remains choppy, the sky, misty, dull white and featureless. We had left the scenic Magellan Straits and were now on the inappropriately named Pacific Ocean, about to enter the Nelson Strait. People will be out in droves later this afternoon as we cruise by Amalia Glacier from 16.00hrs and during the early morning, Pio XI Glacier. This morning’s rain is expected to clear somewhat in a couple of hours and once fully inside the Nelson Strait and the fjords, the waters will be far more still.

This is the first of three welcome sea days. All my birthday invitations have now been delivered, the World Voyage concierge is gifting me a birthday cake, and those excellent people in the Photography Gallery have sorted out the problems with my Lumix camera. Unknown to me, it had gone on to manual focus, and I learned yet another function of this rather over- complicated piece of kit. There is slight damage which sometimes prevents the lens ‘leaf-style” cover from closing, until, gently tapped with the edge of a finger nail.

12.36 hrs. We are now well into the Nelson Straits (I believe) in the Norway-esque Chilean Fjords. This is yet another rare feature of this “Discover South America Cruise.” Sadly, it’s misty outside and the majesty of this countryside is somewhat obscured. Two hours have long passed since our Captain suggested possible welcome breaks in the weather.

We are due at Amalia Glacier at around 16.30 hrs where M.V. Queen Victoria will stay for around two hours. I am glad the Lumix is back in operation; it was frustrating relying on this phone, particularly as photographs take so very long to upload now.  Also, on my camera phone, there is a marked loss of quality on zoomed-in photographs. We are due to sail by the PO xi Glacier from 07.00hrs tomorrow.

I have tried a little deck walking today in a quest to take in these still “mist covered mountains…” It is cold out on deck so perhaps viewing the fjords from the comfort of the Lido through its salt stained windows seems the best way to enjoy this spectacular journey through the Chilean fjords. Perhaps, also from the panoramic Commodore Club. I think, like Alaska, I would like to come here again.

The drizzly misty weather does not seem to be abating. Distant forested islands remain barely visible. Nevertheless, to witness all of this, even in such disappointing weather remains a rare and wonderful event of a lifetime. The internet isn’t working right now, so my last two blogs will be published together when circumstances permit. Generally, the internet on this voyage has been very good, a vast improvement on previous voyages.

Blog amended 11/4/20 16.20hrs. Thanks for reading, David. Note: Re reading this, it seems I never finished this particular blog.

Punta Arenas (which translates as Sandy Point) is the most southerly city on the mainland of South America, and “is the coldest coastal city with a population of more than 100,000.”

Today, I am rejoining the Cunard tourists on a “Patagonian Experience” shore excursion, accessed by tender. This will be fun! The forecast is for maximum temperatures of 10 degrees Celsius!

I don’t quite understand this. Ship’s time is 0723 hrs. My phone now tells me it’s 08.23, just 2 hours behind G.M.T.  The cold wastes of the Chilean south coast beckons…it’s going to be chilly in Chile!

In fact, the transfer by tender has gone smoothly. But these “crossings” are not designed to be comfortable, or even warm. We are, now, safely on board our coach, all except for one passenger who has not yet shown up. Has he/she overslept, missed the tender transfer or decided to remain on board without telling anyone? One of the commendable things about Cunard excursions is that they do wait until the last possible moment, something that can irritate those who did make it on time. Our late passenger has just arrived and thus we are but a few minutes late away.

So far Punta Arenas is uninspiring; the weather reminiscent of a miserable February day in Buxton. However, adventure awaits, culminating in barbecued lamb at a rural ranch. The excitement of being in this part of the world had momentarily….kind of worn off just a little. A nice comfortable 09.45 hrs start was, by necessity, put back to 08.15 hrs which was less palatable. Nevertheless, I have been awake since just after 05.15 hrs, not daring or able to get back to sleep.

I would have liked some opportunity to explore the town of Punta Arenas. However, our coach set off, past numerous significant monuments, and eventually out of town. The countryside was not dissimilar to that which we travelled through from Puerto Madryn. There were no “llamas” to be seen this time, but numerous Rheas similar in profile to ostriches. After around an hour and fifty minutes, we arrived at “Olga Teresa,” a family ranch which opens its doors to increasing numbers of visitors. Three coaches had travelled in convoy from where the ship’s tender had dropped off its passengers from M.V. Queen Victoria. At the ranch, we were split into several groups, to view sheep shearing, a demonstration of sheep dogs at work, and a look inside a stable of around six horses. Barbecued lamb with salad, boiled potatoes, and a glass of wine ensued and rounded off that part of the trip very nicely.

I am back on board and will soon be enjoying a much needed coffee. It is 16.10 hrs right now; I have the rest of the day to do as I please. But, the “Patagonian Experience” was a most pleasurable shore excursion which I cannot see happening again (sadly). *Our captain warned us of very rough weather overnight. *(added24/2/20)

Once again, the weather, although cool and windy, behaved itself, with an abundance of bright periods, distant rainbows and some blue sky.  I dozed off for much of the return journey enjoying glimpses of the countryside and seascapes in brief moments of consciousness. I had partaken of a thimbleful of white wine during lunch!  But also, I had been awake since a non existent time on my watch…5-ish!

More later, David : 16 12 hrs 23rd February 2020.

This evening, it was announced that we would continue along the Magellan Straits past Cabo Froward, the most southerly point of the Americas mainland. I photographed and videoed this rare event. This amazing adventure continues, but now (23.21hrs) it’s time for some sleep; I have been awake since just after 5am.

Thanks for reading, David.