David's Cruise

A peek through the curtains reveals that we have exited the Beagle Channel leaving behind the seemingly infinite landscape of wooded and forested hills as well as distant snow-capped mountains. We were out at sea with no land in sight. The sky was cloudless and pale with distant shades of light salmon, watery yellow and watery blue. And the sea was uncharacteristically calm.

The navigational information on the Daily Programme was somewhat “previous, ” describing our passage to Amalia Glacier which we are scheduled to cruise by on Monday, and not today as announced. What we are doing right now is sailing west along the Magellan Straits with land now clearly visible from both starboard and port sides. The Captain in his noon-day address corrected what was written in the Daily Programme, explaining that at one point later tonight, the stretch of water we were sailing through (Magellan Straits) would narrow to just a mile from one side to the other at around 18.30 hrs. I believe it was a mile each side of the ship, i.e. 2 miles wide. That could be checked. D.N. 11/4/20 15.58hrs.

This sea day has presented opportunities to deck walk, and catch up with my birthday party arrangements.  28 of us will be seated at tables in the vicinity of, and including the Captain’s table for dinner in the Britannia Restaurant on March 1st. That follows a champagne reception in the Gin and Fizz bar (Midships Bar) on Deck 3. No doubt, I shall have to address my guests!  Because of the numbers overwhelming the Midships Bar, the champagne reception was held moved to the much better Yacht Club on Deck 10. D.N. 11/420, 16.01hrs

I attended a fascinating lecture charting the history of the first peoples to inhabit the area through which we are travelling,  i.e. the southern extremities of Argentina and Chile, their structured lives and cultures, and their almost disappeared heritage and traditions. A photograph I took through a dirty window in the Lido was identified as that of Gable Island. Its line of triangular rock structures inspires its obvious name. All around here is “dubbed” The End of the World and remote as it obviously is, tourism is rife during the season when cruise ships call almost daily, often, more than one at a time.  It’s hard to think of a journey more comprehensive and adventurous as Cunard’s 2020  Discover South America Cruise, and I do feel so extraordinarily fortunate to be able to be on board for the entire voyage. These are “rare waters” which I doubt I shall ever return to, however much I would like to.

Although so far away from home, we are just three hours behind G.M.T. in the U.K., and have been since leaving The Amazon River on 3rd February. This will soon change as we head ever westward to the Pacific in a few days.

This afternoon, I returned to the whist drive which today was not quite as well attended as recently. I was thus made welcome! I joined a couple of players for afternoon tea afterwards, only having one finger sandwich and one small dry scone…with three cups of Earl Grey! Tonight, I join Jo for an early dinner in the Alternative Dining restaurant on Deck 9. This is just as the Magellan Straits reaches its narrowest point. We shall then catch the first Show-Time this evening, with competent comedian Mike Doyle, of whom, after his hugely successful show of a few days ago, great things are much expected!

I tried to send an appropriate photograph earlier today, but with no success. I am still trying! More news later. All the best, David. 17.22 hrs 22/2/20.

We have seen the last of the south Atlantic ocean, ventured to the far side of Cape Horn, where the rough seas of the previous day had, at last, settled down, and docked, finally, at the southern-most city of Ushuaia, Argentina, where the summers are cool, the winds blow, and the rain falls like stair-rods. We were very lucky today. Although cloudy, there was an abundance of blue sky and temperatures, a most respectable 18 degrees Celsius at times.

I had been invited to join a private tour of the nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park, far from all of it. A huge percentage of it is inaccessible mountain countryside. But there are numerous hikes and trails through the most amazing and dramatic landscapes. We were also taken around the world’s most southern city, including an abandoned airport, with its terminal buildings still largely intact. During tonight and tomorrow, we shall continue west towards the Pacific Ocean. (I have written a further paragraph later in this blog.)

We should have been cruising by Cape Horn tomorrow instead of yesterday. The weather forecast must have caused the Captain to take the opportunity to cruise by Cape Horn at a time the sea was far less turbulent. Now, I gather, we shall continue towards the Magellan Straits, our next port of call being Punta Arenas, Chile. The views from my balcony stateroom are magnificent right now, but difficult to portray in photographs. Being so far from home does feel a little strange; the last time I felt something similar was back in August 1969 when I spent my first night in North America in a high rise hotel in Montreal. If I found myself stranded out here for whatever reason, I might find myself here for a long time.

(See earlier paragraph.) I am rather pleased that a couple, Richard and Barbara, from the south of England hire a local guide with car who will show them around the port of call for up to six hours. Jo and I completed the party of four, the cost of the guide and transport being split four ways. These are good trips which take in far more than a shore excursion by coach, and generally work out much cheaper. The driver/guide is very knowledgeable, as are all the tour guides. I had cancelled the train trip, but could have still ridden the “Train to the End of the World” if I had still wished to. Taking photographs and videos was more than sufficient; we got to hike along the loveliest of scenic and lakeside trails.

I have travelled extensively in the last almost three years. No matter how remote an interesting place happens to be, there are always crowds of tourists! The End, or Edge of the World is no exception, and perhaps it’s a good thing the cruise ships call almost daily during the season, maintaining the local economy, just as in Alaska.

I can’t wait to start including photographs, again, in my blogs. Even so, it would still be extremely difficult to portray the magnificence I have experienced today.

David: 19.30 hrs  21st February 2020.

20.20 hrs  We departed from Ishuaia sometime after 18.00 hrs. Our journey this evening would take us through one of the most scenic waterways I have had the pleasure of travelling through, the Magellan Straits, with its undulating scenery of forested craggy hills and mountains, cascading to the water’s edge, where very occasionally a resort or settlement had been established. My call at Ushuaia brought to mind street scenes in Alaska; there seemed to be similarities. I never imagined that I would ever travel so widely post retirement. This is beyond wonderful. Thanks for reading, David. (Ammended slightly, 08.34 hrs 22/2/20)

Our day at sea yesterday was rough; the captain announced we were battling a Force 9 gale.  The swell was up to 6 metres, nearly 20 feet. As the ship lurched and swayed, a kitchen door on deck 9 came off its hinges, and a chair in the area adjacent to the swimming pool was hurled into a window. We were certainly heading towards Cape Horn which we would reach at around 19.15 hrs the next day. The bow spray on numerous occasions shot way above the level of my deck 5 balcony; winds of over 50 knots on deck deemed going outside a hazardous exercise.   This afternoon, as the winds and turbulence subside, we shall soon be as far south as this cruise will take us, and as far South as I shall probably ever reach. That point was arrived at around 20.18hrs as M.V. Queen Victoria rounded the southern tip of Cape Horn prior to entering the Beagle Channel. I ate curry as our ship circumnavigated Cape Horn, which we observed through the floor-to-ceiling windows of the Lido, port side. Soon it was time for an early night; tomorrow, I join Jo, Barbara and Rich for a private tour of Ushaia, Argentina.

In the meantime, thanks for reading, and I assure you that I am still taking photographs and videos which I hope sincerely to add at a later stage. David. 20/02/20.

Because of recent difficulties with my blog, and also, because the opportunities to write extensively have been infrequent, there are gaps which I shall address hopefully, in the not too distant future. I still cannot upload photographs, but that does not prevent me taking them.

Two days ago, we were docked at the port of Puerto Madryn. This has already been mentioned previously. I enjoyed my stay there; the warm weather had returned after the previous sea day’s being cold and grey. I chose an 8 hour tour “Peninsula Valdes and Wildlife Reserve.” The round-trip was about 400 kilometres, offering plenteous views of the flat, almost desert like landscape. We would see various examples of wildlife from the coach, including numerous guanacos (which remind me, and may be llamas, and a rare sighting of a couple of tiny Patagonian Owls close to their home, a self dug hole in the ground. Our first stop was at the visitor centre from which we could view the shore line, at the foot of rocky cliffs (far below), with gulfs, shallow bays and lagoons. We stopped at four such viewing points. However, I had no binoculars and had to rely on those of a very kind and helpful member of our party who ensured I could make the most of my trip. Nobody commented that the wildlife was so far away, but I really should have been better prepared. Notwithstanding that ever so slight disappointment, the journey was superb, and provided the rarest opportunity to experience the Patagonian countryside. I had a very good day.

Prior to our time at Puerto Madryn, there were two sea days which followed an overnight stopover in Buenos Aires.

In Buenos Aires, I filled my time with four shore-side trips, the last one of which was a Cunard-staged gala for those partaking in the complete circumnavigation of South America. The first excursion, Tigre Delta and River Cruise took us by coach through the residential suburban neighbourhoods to the Cathedral at San Isidro y Acassusso and the adjacent square. There were no toilets at this point! We would continue to the town of Tigre, passing mansions and yacht clubs. The one hour boat trip was delightful, passing numerous riverside “second homes” and gorgeous landscaped gardens where the “well-to-do” of Buenos Aires spend their weekends.

In the evening, around sixty of us donned our formal attire for a journey around part of Buenos Aires in a spectacular convoy of vintage cars. We would arrive in rare style at Rojo Tango for dinner, and an absolutely superb floor show with dancers attired in the most authentic costumes, some reflecting, very convincingly, the era of the roaring twenties. Jo was my companion for this evening of high elegance. We were dubbed “Bonnie and Clyde!” Although highlights of this voyage come “thick and fast,” this particular event will surely stand out for a long time to come.

The following morning, I joined a “Sights of Buenos Aires tour which took in the widest boulevard in the world, 9 de Julio and the Obelisk marking 100 years of the first national government. We stopped at Plaza de Mayo for photographs, also the aristocratic cemetery in the Recoleta neighbourhood where the tomb of Evita Peron is located. This tomb does not stand out as one might expect; this is where a tour guide us most helpful.

The afternoon saw the second of two galas laid on by Cunard for guests participating in the whole circumnavigation of South America. This was a splendid affair for around 700 on both afternoons. There were displays of horsemanship to begin with, outside, followed by an indoor floor show of everything Argentinian including the now ubiquitous Tango! Food and drink continued in unlimited availability with gorgeous waitresses waiting on everybody, hand and foot. All of a sudden, it was time to go; soon we were sailing away from a city I thought I would never see the sky over. What an astonishing experience; these are the “good old days!”

The above notes were compiled rather hurriedly on 20th February, completed at 15.38 hrs. Thanks for reading, David.

This morning, as we steam towards Puerto Madryn, Argentina, peeping through my curtains, I gaze upon a cloudless horizon with the sun due to rise, right now at 06.44. Land has just come into sight and the shore opposite appears close. A fine day is forecast, in contrast to the “Blackpool summer’s day” of grey skies, tempestuous seas and a fairly spectacular thunderstorm! Temperatures were parsimonious also. That, in turn, was in contrast to the previous day at sea when I basked for too long on Deck 10 with now “established travel companion” Jo !

While in Buenos Aires, on St. Valentine’s Day, in the evening, we joined a party of around 60 people for a splendid night out. Around 30 vintage cars had been hired by Cunard for an evening of fine dining, superb floor show and seductive Tango, all at a very high-end venue. Another splendid night I shall remember for years to come.

This morning, we are edging our way into the port of Puerto Madryn. I am due to check in for an 8 hour shore excursion which I shall write about later in the day.

Please forgive the lack of illustrations. I am still encountering difficulty including them in my blog. Nevertheless, I shall continue to take photographs in the hopes that my writings can be amended at a later stage. Thanks for reading, David: 07.03 hrs 18th February 2020.

P.S. My recent blogs do contain captions for pictures which failed to materialise! David

As you see, I have not yet completed the four part account of my fabulous visit to Iguassu Falls as well as Rio de Janeiro and Montevideo. Yesterday, Day 38, I spent the best part of three hours completing parts one and two. Part 1 did, eventually, work out almost as intended. Part 2 was ready for “publication” and the illustrations chosen carefully. When, eventually the images started to upload, it wasn’t wonderful dramatic scenes of spectacular cascades of water from a great height that began to appear. Instead, images from 2018 of Singapore appeared instead! I have no idea why! Yesterday’s efforts were published complete with captions but no pictures!

During days at sea, I shall try to ascertain the cause of these frustrating difficulties; it could be that location is the problem. I am already further south than I have ever been, and a great sense of remoteness increases with each day.

Today, being Day 39, we are half way through this astonishing “Discover South America” voyage. The difficulties I have encountered are partly due to WordPress redesigning their website without any notification I am aware of. Even when working normally, compiling and illustrating a blog is now a much more lengthy process.

Not only thanks for reading, but also your understanding! David 07.09 hrs 17th February 2020.

The Hotel Belmond Das Cataratus is as magnificent inside as it appears from the exterior. So lovely, in fact that, a few chose to enjoy the hotel and “do their own thing,” rather than participate in the day’s activities which were now to begin with a wake-up call at 05.45hrs! I, too was tempted to chill out at the hotel. However, missing the best views and experiences would be a great pity all because I couldn’t get up in time. I awoke at 02.45 feeling strangely refreshed and unable to get back to sleep. And, some three hours later, discovering how boring insomnia could be, I was up with everybody else, tucking into the earliest breakfast probably in my life!

Not long after 7 am, we were on our way to view the Falls from the Argentina side. It was a substantial coach journey to the border, and then to the little railway which would take us through part of the remaining 7% of the surrounding rain forest to Garganta Station where a round trip walk of 1.7 kilometers would take you across various rivers of the Iguassu Delta to the dramatic “Devil’s Throat.”

Worth seeing hey? Huge numbers of tourists and possibly day-trippers as well as I, certainly thought so! The walk was hampered by the number of people not only walking in the opposite direction, but stopping to take photographs of each other. Rather an insult to the magnificence they seemed to be less interested in! It was decided by our tour guide that the walk along the Green Trail and the upper circuit to see as much of the Argentine side of the Falls as possible, should be before lunch and was not popular with a few who were by now understandably hot and tired. Somehow, I had the strong inclination to carry on, which a good number of us did. We looked across to our hotel, by now, a slightly less significant pink structure dwarfed by its surroundings.

At last, we did have our buffet lunch at the El Fortin Restaurant, and by now, I was also ready for home. However, we on the coach were presented by our tour guide with two further opportunities before dinner at the hotel. A helicopter ride was on offer for a little under $200, and/or a river cruise with promise of a good drenching! I chose the latter not realising a trip down the rapids was a feature of this fun experience. Photography was not really possible; I handed in all stuff which was vulnerable to becoming soaked and damaged, including my phone. Two ninety year-olds braved the “terrifying” boat ride which would see us eventually parked ‘neath one of the huge cascades, the most powerful shower I shall ever take! Clothes were still a little damp back at the hotel…but, what an extraordinary day!

Buffet dinner rounded off this most unusual and fabulous day out. I took photographs until the sun had set and darkness fell. The promise of a nearly full moon was negated by the presence of cloud cover; no point then in viewing the Falls at night time, when a moon-bow would make for an unusual natural phenomenon.

I could write and illustrate more. However, I think that the day has pretty well been covered

Many thanks for reading, David: 17.24hrs, 16/2/20.

It seems the pictures take longer to upload. I shall send this blog as soon as possible.

Although I have written a little, already, about this four day period off the ship, I feel it appropriate, to produce a “one-off” account of this incredible journey through three South American countries, Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay.

Remarkably the tour ran almost as described in the brochure and other Cunard publications.

My earlier “on the hoof” writings are, perhaps, somewhat lacking in detail; hopefully this illustrated account may compensate for the hurried nature of my previous blog.

Note: I am compiling this account on 16th February, using notes from the Cunard itinerary issued only to those (approximately 30) who had booked for the “Iguassu Falls Overland,” also from memory and photographs I have taken.

The World Cruise concierge’s personnel told me that around 30 would make up the party on this Overland. (I remain unsure of the exact number of participants. On 10th February, we assembled at the Gin and Fizz Bar at (for me) the ungodly hour of 7.30 am for an 8 am departure from the pier. Highlight of the morning was the ascent of Corcovado by cogwheel train to the world famous statue of Christ the Redeemer. The presence of cloud might have been a pity given the glorious clear day we all enjoyed 24 hours previously ascending Sugar Loaf Mountain. Nevertheless, there were occasional “biblical” partings of the mist, revealing at least some spectacular vistas. Please refer to earlier blogs, written nearer the time for numerous illustrations.

After descent of Corcovado Mountain, we were driven to a rather nice eatery for a splendid buffet lunch, the first of many such meals which would eventually cause my cabin steward to suggest I was my diet wasn’t working out (not his words, exactly). We continued via various beaches and other points of interest, to the airport in ample time for Flight GOL 2074 directly to IGU Airport. I enjoyed the flight, and shortly after 6.05pm, we were on our way to boarding our lovely roomy coach which would take us to the only hotel in the Iguazu National Park, from the front of which, Iguassu Falls could be seen clearly. Yes, it turned out to be a long day, but the panoramic sight of that huge row of cascades in the distance, as dusk fell, was the prelude of unbelievably exciting stuff to come.

That concludes the first part of my account of this four day Overland to Iguassu Falls.

David. 12.42 hrs, Sunday 16th February ’20

It is extremely hard to believe that, for the briefest periods of my life, I found myself in yet another remote but tourist infested gorgeous part of the world, namely an area bordered by Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Before I had booked Cunard’s 78 night “Discover South America” cruise, I must confess to never having heard of Iguassu Falls; now it seems, like the Galapagos Islands, everybody goes there! Already I have written about the first days of what I refer to as a side trip. Ever since the First World Cruise of 1922/3, side trips or “Overland” excursions have been offered as an optional extra. I believe that in the early years of world cruising, most, if not all shore excursions were included in the fare.

This year’s voyage to South America had five off-ship options, one to Iguassu Falls with Rio and Montevideo, another to Machu Picchu as well as three to the Galapagos Islands.

Having already written each day about my experience on the Iguassu trip, below are pictures of the Falls from almost every possible angle.

This is very annoying! WordPress have redesigned their website and method of sending blogs. It’s going to take me forever to work out how to send pictures!

Apologies to all loyal readers; I should be up and running soon!

David. 13/2/20 08.25 hrs Montevideo.

• 

Blog amended with illustrations, 1/4/20: 23.20 hrs. David.

It seems that not everybody slept well last night; there must have been something in the drink! We all received wake-up calls at around 05.45 hrs; breakfast would be from 06.30, and we would all meet by the hotel reception at 07.10 hrs. The weather feels perfect, but we are warned that it will become very hot as the day progresses.

There are around thirty taking part in this three night “Overland.” This really is the interior of Brazil/Argentina and is a welcome interlude from all the coastal ports of call. We are now waiting at the Argentina border before continuing a further 20 km to the Falls.

First of all, we would drive, then walk to a railway station from where we would eventually take a train to Devil’s Gorge. This is the most intense of the several Falls. To access this part of the Falls, one had to walk around a little less than a kilometre to reach the falls themselves.

Below, are illustrations taken during the day, which ended up in a boat with one of the Falls drenching several of us to the skin!

We crossed into Argentina to view the Devil’s Gorge falls.

Entrance to the Iguazu/Iguassu Falls National Park

Crowds waiting to board the train to Devil’s Gorge. Below: On board. Blog to be continued.