David's Cruise

How very exciting as for the first time, I recognised Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer on Mt. Corcovado, from the port side on Deck 3, rather early, yesterday morning, Sunday 9th February.A wonderful day was in store!

Approaching Rio De Janeiro, Sunday 9th February.

That morning saw me prising myself out of bed just after 6 o’clock. The sun came streaming through the gaps in my curtains. Curiosity got the better of me, and a quick peek from my balcony found me gazing across at bits of spectacularly rocky landscape. “Were we here already?” I queried to myself. “This is the approach to Rio de Janeiro…..you are not coming this way again, get up now!” I ordered myself sharply. Thus, I experienced one of the finest approaches by ship to a great city; others include New York, Cape Town, Liverpool and Sydney.

It was becoming increasingly hot out there, and I had two shore excursions booked for that day. The first, from around 10.00 took us around part of the former capital, including the Cathedral, to the summit of Sugar Loaf Mountain by means of two cable cars.

The second, would be a sunset voyage on a schooner.

For the climb to the summit of Sugar Loaf Mountain, the weather was warm, dry and clear. Extensive views were afforded from all vantage points.

(Continued after several pictures.)In and around The Cathedral, including the Bell Tower, part of the morning’s excursion to Sugar Loaf Mountain. A pink stretch limousine, and views of and from Sugar Loaf Mountain.

The “schooner cruise” promised (and delivered) a rare opportunity to see part of Rio De Janeiro from the coast. Sadly, the sunset was obscured by cloud and surrounding hills, but that did not detract from the attractiveness of this idyllic few hours on the water. Local alcoholic drink flowed like the Iguassu Falls we would travel to the next day! There was no need to worry about becoming cold, the temperature remained in the high 20s Celsius through the night.

During and after the schooner cruise.

I had seen much of Rio, or, so I thought, but the plethora of non stop information through an irritatingly loud P.A. system on the coach, was a little too much to absorb, especially on today’s trip which took in Corcovado and the statue of Christ the Redeemer. This was the prelude to Cunard’s eye wateringly expensive “Overland” to Iguassu Falls. These are supposed to be exclusive tours, but for the train ride to the summit of Corcovado and Christ the Redeemer, and a rather hurried buffet lunch which could have been superb, these became hurried and frenetic as our trip was merged with other Cunard day tours, adding to the chaos masses of other visitors would create already.

Christ in the Clouds. Also other views, including, of course, the train!Despite cloud cover, there were still good views from the summit of Corcovado. Below, pictures of and from the Swiss built train.Beach views on the way to the airport.

Now, we are aboard our flight aboard a GOL (Brazilian domestic flight) Boeing 737-800 to Iguassu Falls. Thunderstorms were forecast for Rio, and, as we take off, the sky is leadened, and the rain, heavy. I confess to being slightly nervous!

More news from The Falls later,David.

P.S. The HOTEL DAS CATARATAS, Iguassu Falls, has to be the finest hotel I have ever stayed at. Strange, therefore that after falling into a deep sleep after dinner, I awoke four hours later feeling “fresh” and thus lying awake until time to get up at 05.45 hrs. This is very unlike me! So, it is now 05.40 hrs, awaiting the dreaded wake up call five minutes from now, for what promises to be another extremely exciting day.

David.

More later!

Today at sea was one of leisure. The weather was magnificent all day, but now we are 21 degrees south of the Equator, a welcome cooler breeze as the sun goes down is extremely pleasant. Of course, when we are at the tip of the continent, it may well feel wintry.

Captain Tomas in his noon-day speech confirmed that we had sailed 10,622 miles since those not quite forgotten fireworks at Southampton.

It is Peter’s birthday today, Peter being one of my original table companions before I joined Jo’s table nearby. I was “welcomed back” to join his birthday celebration over an excellent lunch with a ship’s engineer in attendance.

Happy birthday, Peter.

I didn’t do all that well at this afternoon’s whist drive, which I was only just in time for.

After all that, I chilled out on Deck 10 aft as the sun, unobscured by cloud disappeared over the horizon. Was that really a green flash I perceived as the sun dropped out of sight? If so, it wasn’t spectacular and nobody else saw it!

The setting of the Sun

Slowly, I am preparing for the Overland journey to Iguassu Falls the day after tomorrow. Tomorrow, we dock at Rio de Janeiro where I have two excursions booked, Sugar Loaf Mountain and later, a “sunset schooner cruise.”

The Rising of the Moon

Annoyingly, my Lumix camera is less reliable and in need of repair. My phone has taken over as my main camera for the time being.

Now, it’s time to change for dinner. Tonight is Gala Night (for the umpteenth time.) This time I will be in appropriate attire for any venue on board ship.

The excitement notches up a gear tomorrow as I see for myself some of the world’s best known sights.

All the best,

David

Again, I didn’t sleep too well last night. Nevertheless, I did enjoy, enormously, my first real setting foot in South America, at Brazil’s former Capital, Salvador. (At Manaus and Santarem, theexcursions I took part in, other than the concert at Manaus Opera House, were river cruises).

I was up early, and joined Jo on the open deck, aft of the Lido, for breakfast outside. The heavens opened, but the heavy shower lasted but a few minutes. We transferred inside and finished our breakfasts. Because I was going “on tour” with no refreshments included, I supplemented my porridge with a plate of grilled goodies!

In Salvador, I opted for the Historical Highlights part walking, part coach tour. Our coach took us to the Municipal Square where Lacerda’s Elevator links the upper and lower city, affording spectacular views over Baia de Todas os Santos (All Saints Bay.)

Our walk would take us “through the Historical Centre….”to Terreiro de Jesus Square where two notable churches are located, The Cathedral & The Church of Sao Francisco. We would walk through narrow cobbled streets (The Pelourinho District) with its numerous art galleries and souvenir shops. We would see the Largo do Pelourinho colonial square where “slaves and prisoners were punished in full view of the approving gentry.”

Eventually, we were back on the coach endeding up at the lighthouse (Farol da Barra) some distance away, before returning to the ship.

We were back on board and sailing towards Rio De Janeiro shortly after 16.30hrs. I joined Adrian, Janet, and Jo for Alternative Dining, followed by a spot of deck walking.

I slept fairly soundly afterwards.(Blog completed the following afternoon 17.27 hrs, at sea)

Thanks for reading,

David.

This is our fourth of four days at sea before docking at Salvador, Brazil tomorrow. What a much better day; the wisdom of an outside cabin on the starboard side is just beginning to bear fruit; the coast of Brazil is just visible on the horizon. Hopefully, I will be to able to identify the major city we sailed by at around 09.30 hrs.

I met Jo for breakfast, as “ordained” last night, and we ate al fresco….again. This is more like it, it’s roasting out here!

Poor Ruth struggled with a disintegrating voice as she advised her audience on the history of, and tour opportunities in Buenos Aires in her usual excellent presentation in the Royal Court Theatre.

I had woken up before 6am today after around four hours’ sleep. The opportunity to deck walk presented itself, even ‘though part of the Promenade Deck was cordoned off for routine maintenance. But now, it’s far too hot to contemplate exertion right now.

I have every intention of joining the whist drive this afternoon.

Note for Iguassu: ITAPU DAM

(17.52 hrs) Today turned out to be one of relaxation and whist, the latter of which followed a rare lunch in the Britannia Restaurant, again, looking aft towards the ship’s wake. Seas were calm, blue skies decorated with artistic cloud-scapes. Needless to say, the sun set behind a bank of said clouds. Passengers basked in temperatures of an unnatural (for this time of year) 27 degrees Celsius.

I have received official details of the Iguassu Falls Overland (off ship) journey. It all looks very exciting. Apart from the Falls themselves, we also get to enjoy time and sights both in Rio De Janeiro and Montevideo. This will be a full four days. It would have been nice if we had a few hours in Montevideo to perhaps go out to dinner there; M.V. Queen Victoria is scheduled to leave for Buenos Aires at 17.30 hrs.

I think the arrangements for my birthday are now in place. Invitations will be printed by Cunard, and Jose will computer print menus on special Cunard paper. Among other things, I plan to bring in wine from a Uruguayan winery we are visiting.

There’s a gorgeous tropical breeze across the open decks now that the sun has retired for the night.

I must take my final malaria tablet; I forgot this morning.

Time to leave the therapeutic breeze I could go to sleep in. A cocktail party which I feel obliged to attend, beckons.

With all good wishes, David 18.13 hrs.

Today is the first of four days, one completing our downstream transit of the Amazon River, and the other three, at sea.

At, around 09.00 this morning, we left the southern hemisphere for a short while as we approached the Amazon Delta.

At 20 00hrs or thereabouts, having cleared the “Amazon Bar,” we bid a fond farewell to the world’s second longest river, and we head south to Salvador.

After yesterday’s activities, today, I am doing very little today. This morning, I escaped the heat to attend Sue Bowler’s second lecture, “No Place Like Home.” Her subject covered an account of how the earth’s vastly underground movements were researched leading to a much more qualified understanding of earthquakes and tsunamis. Another highly detailed presentation.

There is not quite so much to write about today as we steam ever further south.

Yesterday evening was a “gala” night requiring the donning of tuxedos and ties. This, actually, is not compulsory if one is prepared to take dinner in the Lido on Deck 9 and spend the rest of the evening in either the Winter Garden, Casino,Golden Lion pub, or the Yacht Club on Deck 10. For me, “dressing up” is little different from changing into “smart casual attire.”

Jo and Janet invited me to join them “in civvies” for dinner on Deck 9….we would go to the early Show Night (formal attire only). What surprised me that nowhere in the “prohibited” areas was I given a disapproving look, or asked to leave. People I had got to know on previous voyages engaged me in conversation as usual.

The show was superb, a far cry from the previous two days which failed to impress. Two old guys, multi instrumentalists with Spanish accents, “Duo Yalba,” demonstrated their virtuosic dexterity on a fascinating range of around thirty various string and wind instruments as well as percussion. Their spectacular performance reminded me a little of the Danish comedic pianist, Victor Borge, who had me “in stitches” back in the late 1970s.

By now, my complex of being under-dressed had subsided, and thankfully, I wasn’t the only one.

After the early show, we adjourned to where I was allowed, the Golden Lion Pub where we, that is Jo, Janet and I, scored 50% in a “love song music quiz.” Jo and I returned to a late repeat of the Show Night, for a second helping of “Duo Yalba.” The early show was almost full, and attracted an extensive standing ovation at the end. The second show was far less full, but was, nevertheless, equally well received throughout, but with no standing ovation, except, I am told one person near the front.

This morning, I attended for the first time, an illustrated presentation by Port Lecturer Ruth whose talk on Montevideo was clear, interesting and comprehensively informative. This is where we finish our overland excursion to Iguassu Falls, with a comprehensive tour of the city, surrounding countryside and a winery.

I then collected my passport complete with Brazilian endorsements stamped across half a page, confirming my few days there.

Rain and mist were the order of the morning and even now, 16.00 hrs, heavy showers have made a comeback, putting paid to an afternoon snack al fresco. While not really quite as bad as the Atlantic crossing to Bermuda, today’s wet and blustery weather has made for a slightly disappointing day. But, I did spend time with Jose (not Hose as previously introduced), Aiden, Janet, Jo, Viv and Ginnie from our table, also catching up with previous table companions Liz, Robin and his daughter Lisa who joined the ship at Fort Lauderdale. Peter from that table, celebrates his birthday on 8th February, three days from now.

(6/2/20 06.23hrs)

All nine of us were back at our table for dinner. I then went with Janet and Jo to Show Night, which this evening was a “musical history of Andrew Lloyd Webber. I have to acknowledge his enormous talent for creating the widest “catalogue” of musicals and original melodies.

Jo and I then caught up with with a little deck walking, by which time the winds had subsided.

The final details of my trip to Iguassu falls were delivered to my stateroom and confirmed the usual itinerary of early starts. But, a stunning tour is in store, and makes for a welcome break from the ship.

Thanks for reading, David. (07.10 hrs)

This morning, I am determined to photograph the page on the Navigational Channel which illustrates the position of M.V. Queen Victoria at the precise moment she crosses the Equator, believe it or not, for the third time on this “Discover South America Cruise.”

We are now steaming in a south easterly direction, parallel to the coast of Brazil at around 17.5 knots. I was expecting to have crossed the Equator during the night.

Towards leaving the Amazon around this time yesterday morning, I missed that magical 00:0.0 degrees; I was having breakfast! Right now, we are 00: 4.8 degrees north, down from 00: 11.7 an hour ago.

Almost there.

We crossed the Equator at 09.13 hrs & 46 seconds ship’s time, just a few moments ago.

The photo below was taken from my balcony at around 09.20 hrs 00:0.8 degrees south.

So now, once again, in the southern hemisphere, we are calling at, along South America’s east coast:-

Salvador, Brazil. 7th Feb

Reo de Janeiro, Brazil. 9th/10th Feb

Montevideo, Uruguay. 13th Feb

Buenos Aires, Argentina 14/15th Feb

Puerto Madryn, Argentina. 18th Feb

On 20th February, in the evening, we enter the Beagle Channel, leaving very early the following morning. We then call the same morning at Ushuaia, Argentina.

By then, I think that we shall be almost as far south as Buxton is north of the Equator. (Cape Horn is 55 degrees south, Buxton, around 53 degrees north. One could not dream up such a journey, although nowadays, South America is becoming ever-more a tourist destination. Still, few folks from the U.K. will have set foot in the Manaus Opera House.

There was, inevitably, the “Crossing the Line ceremony where guests who have never crossed the Equator before volunteer to be charged at the Court of King Neptune, for various “silly” offences. Being doused in multi-coloured sludge as well as out-of-sell-by-date spaghetti, and then tossed into the swimming pool is by way of public sentence.

I am amazed that rational and successful people are able to “let their hair down,” and participate in this ancient tradition. (I have in my collection, an original “crossing the line” certificate from the very first world cruise, organized by American Express who chartered the then almost new Laconia from November 1922 to, I think, April 1923)

While photographing all this, my cell phone battery expired! So, I missed the end, which was a little annoying!

Being day 26, we have completed exactly one third of this Discover South America cruise.

Thanks for reading,

David 16.24 hrs.

As ever, I was sad to leave a city which, because I had selected a river cruise, I only saw at a distance from the waterway. It was very hot, and walking around would have been exhausting.

It’s going to be hotter tomorrow, around 35 degrees Celsius.

After returning from my afternoon trip, I took my belongings back to my stateroom and then left the ship for a second time to raid the souvenir stalls. I came away with the usual t-shirts, baseball cap, and a “trilby” made in China out of 100% paper! U.S. Dollars seem to be the order of the day in Brazil, and change was also in U.S. currency.

We have one final day on the Amazon tomorrow, entering the Atlantic at around midnight, Tonight, I join Roger and Nona for dinner in the Alternative Dining on Deck 9. This I believe is “Corriander” night (Indian Cuisine.)

More writings tomorrow; thanks for reading,

David. 19.00 hrs.

For twenty-four glorious days, I have “lived” aboard a present day Cunard cruise ship, and am not yet a third of the way through this voyage across oceans and along rivers.

My private stateroom for seventy eight nights (above) has all one needs for comfortable living. Similar to a small hotel room, a patio door leads out onto an adequate tinted glass-walled balcony with space for two sun loungers and small table. Because the stateroom is configured for two, single occupancy attracts a one-person fare supplement of 75%. (Sole occupancy of a Grills Suite well set the lone passenger back a further 100% of the “per person” fare.) Cunard recently introduced single occupancy cabins on all three of its ships, but these are usually snapped up as soon as any voyage goes on sale. Each night, fresh towels and face flannels replace all those used during the day. The room is kept immaculate by the always pleasant, helpful and courteous cabin steward. The shower works as it should, and hot water is almost instantaneous. On board ship, this piece of your own territory is a valuable commodity. Food is synonymous with cruising. Every day, and throughout the day, the restaurants and eateries are kept replenished as required.The Lido on Deck 9The catering side is mind-boggling. Every dinner is a high-end event which after just days, can, be taken for granted. The guests/passengers are spoiled thoroughly; coming home to reality really is a shock to the system! Very occasionally, a “dish” might not work out as expected. Dressing for dinner in formal wear may become tiresome, but a dining room full of people in tuxedos and ties (preferably black) still looks rather grand. The constant availability of food is astonishing when one considers the logistics of “making it all happen,” day after day, voyage after voyage. As in any major town, a theatre (The Royal Court) stages “show-night” every night.The Royal Court Theatre (where photography is prohibited!)

The entertainments are excellent, although not always to my taste. My only complaint is that over amplification can sometimes obscure the lyrics. As far as I can make out, the eight-piece Royal Court Theatre Orchestra is made up of 2 saxophonists, one trumpeter, one trombone player, one at the drums, two guitarists, and one pianist. The theatre itself has the capacity of any similar one land, and has that “on the town” feel when the ship is not being tossed around. There are numerous places to swim, a children’s play area, library and most days, a movie is shown in The Royal Court Theatre, which on Sundays at sea, doubles up as a church (for less than an hour at 10am.) Deck 10 houses the Commodore Club offering sumptuous seating, some looking forward towards a wide vista ahead. Bar staff offer (at a price + 15%) probably any drink one could wish for. (Tap water is usually met with a split second grimace followed by “my pleasure, sir!”) I rarely drink alcohol, and avoid soft drinks because of the sugar content. However, “tap water” is always part of a round…I am never so mean to the bar staff!The Commodore Club A pub the Golden Lion (not yet illustrated) on Deck 2, serves draught ale, spirits, soft drinks, and pub lunches. Quizzes, Karaoke, Bingo and other such events attract the guests who prefer not to barbecue themselves under a tropical sun. Most parts of the ship provide cool relief from the equatorial heat outside. And, apart from an occasional broken window and a few knocks here and there, it all works.Outside, the ship is massive, and although its side profile is a tad ugly, in fact, M V. Queen Victoria couldn’t be better laid out. Carnival may have its critics, and as in any global industry, the “bean counters” always come up with ways to economise. To the keen observer, or over critical guest who demands, unreasonably, perfection, such cut backs can be “painfully” obvious. Still, for almost three months, I know I am in extremely good hands. I have been taken around the world in various stages, and all the time, felt cared for and looked after. All this eventually comes to an abrupt end at the cruise terminal where a tranche of fresh travellers can then bask in what I have enjoyed over years of ocean liner and cruise ship travel. Finally, below is reproduced, a page from the ship’s T.V. Navigational Channel. All that I have described, and much more is contained in twelve passenger decks, numbered 1 to 12, from the lowest level.

David. (Started at around midnight last night, revised and completed, 7 to 8.16 this morning, 3rd February 2020)

Today, I have chosen an afternoon river cruise for our somewhat brief call at Santarem. Like Manaus, 500 miles away, Santarem is not on the Amazon itself. Thus, this trip affords a further opportunity to witness the confluence of two rivers, the River Tapajos and Amazon River, both of different temperature, and density and other properties, flowing alongside each other for a short distance; the clear dark blue of the Tapajos and the all too familiar light brown muddy appearance of the Amazon.

The three pictures below, taken at 1743hrs illustrate the scene I am attempting to describe.

Today feels much warmer than it was during the Amazon Experience tour from Manaus.

Santarem is industrialised, but with a history dating back several centuries to its foundation in 1661….& I quote, “as a Jesuit mission to a Tapajo Indian settlement (Aldeia) and grew around a fort built by Pedro Teixeira.” It received Town Status (Tapajos) in 1758, becoming a city in 1848.

Our boat is smaller than that provided at Manaus, and annoyingly, the upper deck is out of bounds. Accessed by a steep ladder, I guess Cunard, or the boat operators, are “playing it safe!” I am grateful that the young tour guide only speaks to point out that which is of interest, and also relevant; I am very pleased, so far, with this boat trip.

The pictures below illustrate the “crescendo of magnificence” as the dull industrial-scape of Santarem faded far behind, and the waterways of yet more jungle manifested themselves.

Wildlife was aplenty, birds, butterflies and the teasing dolphins, all of which would cause excitement among the seated passengers.

But now, we are stationary as said guests attempt to fish for piranhas. Modest results caused further excitement. I declined the offer to effectively kill a living being. However, the hypocrit in me would allow cooked consumption of the same…lunch is passing me by!

The poor creature illustrated is a catfish.

Seemingly, the piranha population had a fishy suspicion that a bunch of Cunard tourists were on their way, and thought that it might be wise to scarper!

Other pictures illustrate various views taken from when we set off from Santarem.

I shall submit another tranche of photographs shortly.

Thanks for reading,

David. 17 59 hrs 2/2/20.