David's Cruise

The maps below illustrate our progress to date (2/2/20) from the Caribbean (1st picture) to Manaus, and now, back to Santarem.

In a previous blog, I complained that prior to our arrival at Manaus, our timepieces should be advanced by 1 hour. (Already, my mobile phone had become “out of sync” with ship’s time.)

However, this wasn’t the case; but Santarem is just three hours behind G.M.T.

As instructed officially, I advanced my watch accordingly. I have a local river cruise booked for later today, which I shall write about soon after arriving back.

Our departure is somewhat earlier, shortly after 17.00hrs.

All the best, David, 08.53hrs local time.

(This blog published at 18.27 , 2nd February 2020….this should have appeared first.)

Wonderful is this sultry warm weather.

I spent much of this morning re-writing yesterday’s blog. Thus, although I was up in time to watch as we left Manaus shortly after 07.15hrs, I didn’t have breakfast until 10.45, a good time to take my malaria medication.

It is around two weeks since I switched tables to one occupied by Jo who, with Joyce, had joined my table back in 2018. Therefore, it’s about time for introductions. There are nine of us for dinner on most evenings: Hose and Aidan from Hawick, a town once served by the railway Waverley Route over which I made two journeys before its ridiculous closure in 1969. Brian and Kate also hail from north of the Border. Viv and Ginny (another Virginia!) represent Wales. Janet ” stands up for North London, Jo for the Sussex Coast (St. Leonard’s) and me, Buxton!

I have just entered the final month of being 70, and plans are in hand for some kind of celebration from when I shall “cling on” to being 71!

The Cunard brochure assures its guests and “would-be” passengers that nothing is too much trouble, and indeed, when celebrating my birthday on the Queen Mary 2 in 2018, the dining room crew “went all out” to stage an excellent dinner at the Captain’s table, festooned with balloons and with specially over-printed menus. QM2 World Cruise 2018 invitation cards were provided and delivered to invitees. Nothing was too much trouble.

On board Q.V. last year, my birthday celebrations seemed to cause some confusion and bewilderment, but turned out most satisfactorily after a few little misunderstandings had been rectified.

This year, a table for eighteen is already causing mild consternation. “We can do anything Cunard” seem to be tumbling at this first elementary hurdle. That, most understandably is because, unlike an hotel, many tables on cruise ships, by obvious necessity, are bolted down.

I have just been joined by a fellow guest at an outside table, where not long before, I had enjoyed another al fresco breakfast, aft on deck 9, but, still shaded from the hot sun by one of several awnings. I had then stayed and relaxed while compiling today’s blog. Conversation which, far from scintillating, revealed her as just a year younger than I, and confirmed my wisdom of having stayed single! She asked me what type of phone on which I was typing my blog….”not sure,” I replied, sensing an on-coming “why haven’t you….etc etc.” “Samsung A70,” I then confirmed. I wasn’t wrong; she pulled the kind of face a disgruntled cat might make when confronted with a dish of fake Kattomeat! (I could go on)

The Deputy Captain’s noon day announcement was a welcome interruption. After ascertaining we had sailed 7,888 nautical miles since leaving Southampton, I mumbled “excuse me,” got up and left, soon finding a seat in the Royal Court Theatre in time for a lecture discussing the possibility of alien life! “Frying pan to fire….?”

This was the first in a series by Dr Sue Bowler of the Royal Astronomical Society and University of Leeds. Her delivery was fluent, interesting and scientific. A lot of the detail was too much for my non- academic brain. Nevertheless, I am tempted to attend her second presentation.

Earlier, I passed on Clare Balding’s talk on sport. I suspect this lecture was “full, and standing room only.”

I have no plans today, other than to watch as we return along the now muddy Amazon, slightly lighter in colour than earlier today.

Janet “rescued” me from my splendid solitude as I continued writing at a window table in the Lido…out of the burning sun that I had longed for back home, and will do again. In fact, I was glad of the company of both Janet and Jo who kindly “fetched me a brew.”

Now to relax outside for a short while, and then walk the Promenade Deck hoping the mosquitoes are far off.

More later Thanks for reading,

David.

(above)

Leaving Manaus: note in the last two pictures, Rio Negro (clear blue/black) alongside the Rio Solimoes converge to flow side by side before reaching the “birth of the mighty Amazon.” The current is behind us now and we are thus exiting quicker downstream rather than battling in the opposite direction.

David. 16.26 hrs, 1st February 2020.

M.V. Queen Victoria pulled into Manaus shortly before 09.00hrs and it was not long before passengers could step ashore.

I had booked on the Amazon Experience shore excursion which was entirely by boat.

To begin with, we saw from our two deck riverboat (No.7) as we left the city of Manaus behind, houses on stilts (to accommodate the varying tide levels) of the “ribeirinhos,” (or riverpeople.) The riverbank was strewn with all kinds of activity to begin with. I am not sure that I recognised the floating petrol stations mentioned in the brochure!

Manaus is situated on the Rio Negro. Our riverboat would retrace the steps, roughly, of M.V. Queen Victoria towards the confluence of the Rio Negro and Rio Solimoes, the former a clear blue/ black and the Solimoes light brown and muddy. My brochure informs me that this is “This is the birthplace of the mighty Amazon River….the Meeting of the Waters….” Because the waters of these two rivers have different properties, they are vastly different in appearance as they run parallel for several miles. This provided a rare opportunity to see the two rivers, one muddy and light brown, the other, dark blue/black running side by side, unable to mix because of the different properties of the water in the two rivers. The resultant spectacle is a rare sight to behold.

It is very unlikely that I shall here again; travelling along the Amazon River surely is a journey of a lifetime.

(Day 23, 08.37 hrs) This morning, I revised much of what I had attempted to write after such a wonderful but long and tiring day, yesterday.

Thus, I continue!

We continued to Lake January, where a fabulous buffet lunch was provided in a floating restaurant. The local fruits on offer were absolutely wonderful, as were the numerous hot and cold dishes to begin with. I was glad to be one of four people from our “table.”

After lunch, and the inevitable but pleasurable look around the souvenir outlet, where I purchased a replacement baseball cap, we boarded (with some difficulty) one of several “motorised” canoes which would venture “deeper into narrow overgrown tributaries, at times, under a dense umbrella of trees that add to the mystery of this region…” Do forgive me for my numerous quotes from the Cunard Brochure!

We didn’t get to see the Victoria Regia water lilies from our wonderful motorised canoe. But we did get to see them after walking along a marvellous wooden boardwalk construction, around 300 yards. Again we were under an umbrella of trees for a short distance. On the way, we spotted a monkey, At the end, a wooden elevated covered observation platform afforded overhead views of said water lilies as well as lake view I would probably never see again. On the lilies, a sharp-eyed table companion spotted what we believed was a bany alligator.

Eventually, we returned to the river boat where on the outward journey, the plastic garden chair on which I was sitting most comfortably, collapsed sending be spectacularly on my back! Some wise guy told me that I owed the boat owner $100….charming! Needless to say, only my pride was dented and there are no provisions on my excruciatingly expensive travel insurance for acute embarrassment!

We returned to M.V. Queen Victoria by around 16.45, and I to my cabin for a breather and shower, before joining 700 guests who would fill the world famous Manaus Opera House for a well thought out programme of music by Bach, Mozart, and Tchaikovsky.

Marcelo de Jesus was the slick and effective conductor of Bach’s third Brandenburg Concerto, a work I was unfamiliar with by Mozart, Divertimento in three movements, K. 136, and after a ten minute interval, Serenade for Strings, by Tchaikovsky, only some of which was familiar with.

That Cunard had arranged (or that the local authority in Manaus had suggested ?) for the Opera House to be opened was incredible. The performances were well received, perhaps too well as on numerous occasions, the audience would clap in the wrong place! My late friend J.D.R. would be turning in has grave so much so that Buxton would be left in ruins! And on that note…..!

It’s time for breakfast and my fourth of nine malaria tablets. It is a glorious day as we steam towards our next port of call, Santarem.

Thank you all for reading.

David (10.26 hrs 1/2/20)

I see, from Sky Weather, the U.K. is basking in 12 degrees Celsius, both in London and Edinburgh!

Now well upstream along the Amazon, we are informed of temperatures of around 30 degrees, 84 Fahrenheit. Skies are bright with intermittent fluffy white cloud cover. It is going to feel even hotter tomorrow, particularly ashore in Manaus. Some are playing it safe and not leaving the ship.

The Amazon, although a little more narrow than yesterday, is still wide. We have passed areas which, sadly, appear to have been deforested, several tiny settlements, evidence of life, and one major town, announced by the Captain in his noon address, the name of which I have forgotten completely.

These signs of life are evidenced by occasional sightings of river craft, and settlements along the riverbanks. However, the sight, to the locals, of a passing cruise ship is probably now, less of a notable occurrence these days. If I want to do a similar journey next year, I will need to change shipping companies; Cunard are not coming here, as far as I know, at least in the next two years.

Annoyingly, the clocks go forward another hour, leaving us just three hours behind the U.K. Therefore, I shall forego “Show time” tonight, which is a pity.

Last night was an “in house production,” with a cast of just four over amplified singers and dancers, backed by an orchestra comprising the Royal Court and Queens Room orchestras, the trio of string instrumentalists and harpist who entertains throughout the ship at different times of the day and evening. I rather think, but cannot say for certain, that there are “plants” in the audience strategically placed to scream, shout and clap in order to generate a kind of contrived excitement. Royal Caribbean do this trick much more effectively! (or they did before the days of their mega-ships). Maybe, this kind of deja vue is “some kind of a privilege.”

On the other hand, journeying up the first 900 miles of the Amazon most certainly is a privilege and a rare occurrence in few peoples’ lives.

Just before I submit a handful of pictures taken today, I must mention the final lecture given by Tony White discussing the wisdom of legalising cannabis, “Going to Pot.” Another amusing and thought provoking talk which, I think, came to the conclusion that making cannabis legal would merely bring the price down, encouraging your “friendly drug retailer” to market far more dangerous “substances.” Again, this was a very comprehensive presentation, little of which, unfortunately, has sunk in!

The above views are taken mainly from my stateroom balcony, or the same side on the Promenade Deck. Talking to a former table companion, Liz, on the Promenade Deck, we came to the conclusion that it is almost impossible to convey the immense “WOW” factor experienced on such a voyage. Pictures “don’t do it.”

But I am looking forward to the time I have collated enough experiences to make up an illustrated talk; these blogs will help.

Many thanks for reading,

David.

As a small boy, I asked my father what he would he most like to do, more than anything. His response was “to travel along the Amazon River.” That was the first time I was aware of its existence. He lamented that he would never be able to achieve this “pipe dream.” “Why?” I questioned, as little boys do. He was unable to answer straight-forwardly except that such a journey was beyond possible reality. Father could be a little vague at times!

I am sure that the Amazon was covered in Joe Higgins’ geography lessons at school.

Over half a century later, I have achieved one of my father’s “pipe dream wishes;” January 29th sees me on board a luxury cruise ship trying to acclimatise to the humidity of sailing on a river along (rather than across) the Equator. Thankfully, the first of the anti malaria tablets have had no adverse effect (so far). I am absolutely thrilled, and although a little apprehensive, I anticipate with some pleasure the full day and evening programme of events at Manaus, the day after tomorrow.

The river banks are clearly discernible on the starboard side, less so opposite. In fact, at the moment (11.45 hrs) I cannot see land to port.

Out of the heat, I attended the fifth of Tony White’s entertaining and hugely enlightening History of Drugs lectures this morning, offering today, a detailed account of Cannabis throughout the centuries.

(I can now, just discern the river bank through the river mist on the port side) The water is light brown and menacing!

And Dad, I assure you, it’s very very warm here, and getting hotter.

14.45 hrs: From what I gather, we are anchored around 133 nautical miles upstream along the Amazon, and have just picked up a team of local pilots who will escort M.V. Queen Victoria towards Manaus. Also, I understand, Brazilian Immigration authorities have come on board; they will check our passports, handed in yesterday.

At 12.15, I attended one of the funniest of shows, a “documentary” about piano playing comedians, “Funny People with Pianos,” presented by the also hilariously amusing Jon Courtenay. Amongst the almost non-stop humour, were numerous facts and insights which made the full one hour show “educational,” if one could remember the fast flowing facts and anecdotes. Each subject was accompanied by a film clip. There was rare footage of Flanders and Swann, Victor Borge, Les Dawson and many more, recalling glorious recollections of my much younger years. I don’t think that I have laughed for as long since attending a live session of the Clitheroe Kid. Remember that folks? (My mother hated it!)

15.10hrs: We are now underway. The low lying sea/river mist has burned off, and a heavy rain shower has cleared the air somewhat. The river banks are now clearly visible on both sides and there is a splendid view forward from the panoramic Commodore Club on Deck 10. Already, I am thinking, “boy! I want to do this again!” This certainly is a voyage of contrasts ranging from the fury of the north Atlantic to the azure waters of the Caribbean and now, the muddy Amazon River. Between the Amazon’s mouth to Manaus is 900 miles. Not bad for one trip, but there is so much more to come in the next eight weeks and two days.Above: First pictures taken of the Amazon from my stateroom balcony, this last image, aft on deck9.

I have returned to my balcony and I am able to gaze upon the river banks which are far closer than I was expecting so early into this journey along the Amazon.

Views from the Commodore Club

Further views taken from my stateroom balcony 15.58 hrs 29/1/20.

It is surprisingly fresh outside. This morning, the open decks felt like the inside of a sauna or steam room. Being very unlikely that I shall come this way again, I have chosen to stick with my ambitious schedule in Manaus which includes a river trip, walk in the rain forest, lunch, and the inevitable visit to a gift shop.

Unmissable in the evening is a concert in the Manaus Opera House which pre-dates that at Buxton by seven years. The two excursions are almost back to back with less than two hours in between. Several from our table are also “doing both.”

I tried a little deck walking at around 5pm. I don’t know if I am imagining it, or whether those slight “pings” I am experiencing are in fact mosquitoes and the like that have made it to the middle of the river. I have come inside straight away.

I came close to another session of whist this afternoon, but instead was joined in the Lido by Viv and Ginny from my current table, and the resultant conversation “over-ran.”

18.32 hrs: It’s dark now; annoyingly, I missed what might have been a good sunset. But, I did enjoy sitting out on my balcony which I am so thankful to have upgraded to last year. Already, the temptation to book another trip is mounting. However, I have more or less completed Cunard’s extensive repertoire of destinations.

But of course, a new Cunarder enters service in 2022. Speculation as to its name is rife. I feel one of the former Cunard names Berengaria, Mauretania or Aquitania should be revived, but, I think I am on my own there! Whatever name is chosen, it won’t suit everybody.

The evening entertainment on board has been most impressive and enjoyable, so much so that I rarely miss “Show Night.” And the lectures are excellent also. In the “short” time I have left, I shall endeavour to include more detail in my writings.

In the meantime, greetings from the Amazon,

David.

Reading through my most recent blog, I realised I had merely mentioned attending two lectures. I intended to include some detail.

The first talk, at 11.00 hrs was given by Clare Balding O.B.E., entitled “The Royal Family: Winners and Losers.”

The account of her career as a high profile T.V. major event reporter, afforded a rare insight into members of the Royal Family, mainly their association with high society sporting events, & also the recent family issues. Particularly amusing were accounts of her “run-ins” with the Princess Royal, and a superb “send-up” by Tracey Ullman. While I have no interest at all in any sport, especially at this high society level, I thoroughly enjoyed her talk, which may have initiated an interest after all!

Highly recommended was Tony White’s multi-part account of the history of drugs. Not being interested in the subject, I missed the first three or four lectures, watching just a piece of the last one my stateroom T.V.

I stayed in the Royal Court Theatre for Tony’s “next episode,” The Other War on Drugs. I have no interest whatsoever in this subject. However, his latest lecture was a real “eye-opener,” charting the use of drugs as a weapon as early, if I remember correctly. I am now led to believe that all those involved in combat are given specific drugs to enable them to lose their fear of going into battle. The lecturer went into considerable detail, leaving both me and a couple of friends flabbergasted and somewhat disillusioned by the time his lecture came to an end.

Tonight in the Royal Court Theatre, Bruce Morrison gave a wonderful dramatic and musical account of Victor Hugo’s “Les Miserables.” Again, I was captivated by a subject I had no particular interest in.

As I complete this blog, more than likely, we shall have entered the Amazon Delta. Here beginneth the first highlight of the cruise as we enter the South American continent for the first time. M.V. Queen Victoria is making what I believe is her third foray along the Amazon.

I am sure that “pictures will follow” illustrating notable landmarks along the longest river in the world. But in the meantime, thanks for reading.

Very best wishes, David.

I have enjoyed my day, so far. This morning, I felt that I should attend two of the three excellent lectures in the welcome coolness of the Royal Court Theatre. I was awake by 07.10 hrs, but not out of my room until after nine o’clock. I postponed my good intentions of deck walking to the afternoon, after my final game of whist for the time being. My score today was a lacklustre seventy something, an appropriate “final” score for the time being.

This voyage has really “come into its own.” It is so warm out on the open decks, and a substantial sea breeze reduces that uncomfortable clammy feeling which no doubt I shall have to become accustomed to on our eight hour Amazon experience.

I start taking the malaria tablets tomorrow morning, as M.V. Queen Victoria enters the Amazon Delta, and then its mighty river.

I have handed in my passport for examination by Brazilian Immigration. I do hope for a spectacular stamp to record this significant event in my life.

Outside, on the open decks, clouds of “grey cotton wool” gather above, hopefully to create, eventually, a spectacular thunderstorm. I am relaxing in a steamer chair on the port side of the ship, where I am typing this blog on my phone. I have become accustomed to this rare chilled-out life style. Funnily enough, the nights can feel strange, occasionally. But usually, as the intervening sunlight penetrates the curtains into my quarters, a new day dawns and I look out onto an infinite sea scape. Once again, a parade of deck walkers pass determinedly by, and before I shower for dinner, I shall join them for a few laps. It’s almost dark now.

With best wishes,

David.

This is the first of four sea days as we continue south easterly “paralleling the North Eastern coast of South America, passing the countries of Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana…” prior to entering the Brazilian Amazon Delta. (We might have “paralleled” these countries, but they were too far off to be visible.)

Today is gorgeous!

Yesterday was “exhausting,” not just for me, but also for many who made had made the most of their stay on the paradise island that is Barbados. Our table had just four out of a possible nine present for dinner where I enjoyed an excellent Cunard chicken curry during that dinner…not particularly healthy!

Show time after dinner, featured a superb flute player, demonstrating virtuoso playing of several different types of that instrument. The routine billing in the Daily Programme belied the superb entertainment on offer, and the excellence of the resident eight-piece Royal Court Orchestra. However, the production team are at times, over zealous with the smoke machine.

This morning, after a decent sleep, I made good use of my balcony, allowing the continual “swoosh” sound of the ocean to relax me like gregorian plain chant.

The longed for temperatures of the high 20s Celsius have blessed this voyage for around five days now, and it’s not going to cool down anytime soon. The Medical Centre has reassured me about my malaria medication, and also about some insect bites that have manifested themselves unexpectedly. (No charge!)

I have, yet, to embark on my daily walk, but now, it’s time for lunch, and of course….whist; I knew there was something!

At noon today, we had sailed 6,213 nautical miles from Southampton. That is roughly the distance to Cape Town, which usually takes 14 days. However, we are now on schedule, having taken on fuel in Barbados, after the abortive attempt two days ago, to refuel from a barge near St. Kitts. (see below)

It’s hard to believe that I am heading towards Brazil and the Amazon; this has to be the journey of a life time.

More later,

Best wishes,

David.

Day 18 continued.

I think I have, now, regained my knowledge of, the game of whist, and some of its vagaries. However, I am not keen on the idea of devoting nearly two hours every day we are not in port. There will be sights to behold as we sail up the Amazon, as well as at the southern tip of the continent. I do enjoy playing cards however, but all that can wait until the sea days are less interesting. I scored 111 today. The cards fell quite well, but at times I could have played better.

Once out of that windowless whist venue on 3 Deck, the sky had, by now, clouded over, but, the breeze on the open deck was warm and therapeutic. Just why I was tempted to take afternoon tea, I’m not quite sure. This used to be a “queue-up-for” event, and being late assured one of disappointment. Another “easy-on-the-eye” harpist serenaded those partakers who, including me, were disregarding that increased risk of heart disease and the onset of type 2 diabetes!

Afternoon Tea, every day, from 15.30 in the Queens Room.

I am thoroughly enjoying this day of inactivity, but am a little disappointed that the Christian Fellowship meetings at 9am, are far too evangelical and obsessive for my comfort. One has to have had that “Road-to-Damascus” experience to feel at ease at such gatherings.

Now to return to the Promenade Deck to “work off” that delicious afternoon tea.

Again, thanks for reading,

David.

Any comments (always welcome) will be responded to at the first opportunity.17.08 hrs local time (GMT -4)

Thankfully, the internet is quite good, even on board; I have managed to catch up on my “electronic journal” which I hope is coming across satisfactorily. (I am continuing this a day late; Day 17 was somewhat busy, although I did put something out yesterday. Some of the pictures did not upload, so I shall try again now)

These are images of the three ships during their port visit to Bridgetown, Barbados yesterday, as the sun went down, and TUI’s “Marella Explorer 2” sails into the night. This view was taken from my balcony.

(Published 11.50 hrs 27/1/20, Day 18)