Last night in Vancouver

After yesterday’s “circuit” of the Park route, I took a short break in my hotel before joining the Night Tour. While we revisited the lovely and extensive Stanley Park, last night’s visit seemed more in depth. The highlight of this tour was the sunset viewed from the less well known Queen Elizabeth Park, so named after a visit from the Queen Mother. At the moment, I am not sure exactly when.

My phone battery expired almost at the beginning of last night’s tour; I did manage just the one photograph at the end of this blog. The “big sky” was not as spectacular as it might have been, and Elizabeth Park, although very lovely, did not provide the best vantage point from which to enjoy the sunset. Nevertheless, the tour continued to several places I had not seen during the day. Gastown and the Steam Clock were most impressive as the sky darkened. We were also shown much of “suburbia” on the outskirts. Obligingly, our driver dropped me and some others at or near our hotels. All-in-all, an excellent evening!

David 09.23 Hyatt Recency. 706

Queen Elizabeth Park. (below)

Day 19 Vancouver. 18th June.

That’s it for long distance train journeys (for the time being).

I am very comfortable at my Vancouver accommodation. But it took me a while to “get up and go” after that much needed sleep. Finally, I have started to explore, and, as in San Francisco, I have purchased 48 hour hop-on hop-off pass to take care of all my sightseeing in the two days available. The walk to Canada Place is around five minutes, almost adjacent to the cruise terminal.

(above) Canada Place.

From here, I can explore the city on the bus/ferry. However, a most unsuitable but delicious lunch in an Italian restaurant was the order of the early afternoon where I started penning this blog. I am now on the Park (green)route which I shall complete in its entirety. It should take around two hours. This evening, as in San Francisco, I shall take the night tour. (I expect some duplication). This initial ride is providing a very good overview of Vancouver.

Trolley buses are plentiful in Vancouver, creating an ambience of nostalgia, again, similar to San Francisco. The city feels noisy busy and vibrant. Smartly dressed locals sip designer coffees in famous-chain coffee bars. Business is conducted over personal “rectangles” (my disparaging term for cell phones). Hopefully, the pictures I take here will illustrate an attractive city, surrounded by wooded hills and mountains. The bus journey was well in excess of the promised two hours, although “dwell time” at some stops seemed generous. And I think that we missed Gas Town and the Steam Clock to recover some lost time. There is always tomorrow. I shall be up and about at a much more respectable hour tomorrow; there is so much to see. We do call here on the way back from Skagway (Alaska), for a final opportunity to see more of Vancouver or its scenic surrounds.

Chinatown, Vancouver. Streets here are identified by a gold dragon on the streetlights.

West Hastings and Granville Streets

The Fairmont Hotel, Vancouver.

Several hotels here are now under the Fairmont brand. I feel sure this one is the original Hotel Vancouver opened in 1939.

My hotel, the Hyatt Recency.

More writings and pictures to follow.

David 18 28 hrs Hyatt Recency.

Now to change for tonight’s tour.

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Review of The Rocky Mountaineer, compiled mid morning, 18th June at Tim Horton’s (open 24hrs)

11.12 hrs. /19.12 hrs back in the U.K.

Yesterday, I published a bunch of unlabelled photographs in an attempt to illustrate, further, my two day adventure on The Rocky Mountaineer.

This would bring the curtain down on what one may describe as an epic journey to Vancouver from Southampton with numerous highlights along the way, already described and illustrated in previous blogs.

Today’s Rocky Mountaineer is a privately owned train, whose inaugural excursion left Vancouver in late May 1990. This was after VIA-Rail had introduced daytime excursions to the Rockies in 1988 at the behest of the Canadian government.

Changing at Jasper from VIA’s The Canadian to The Rocky Mountaineer enabled me to see just about all of the Rockies en route in bright clear daylight. Much as I enjoy overnight rail travel, three nights on The Canadian left me in some need of a rejuvenating stay at The Crimson Hotel in Jasper.

This “additional” blog is really to reiterate my absolute delight at having included The Rocky Mountaineer in my travel plans. I have travelled on, and thoroughly enjoyed many “famous” trains. They are all special, and “unmissable” in their own ways, and I would not suggest a preference. However, Rocky Mountaineer is up there with the very best!

However, there are three very slight issues none of which really matter.

a) Little apparent opportunity to photograph the train from ground level, especially the dedicated locomotives. (I would have still bought the DVD!)

b) Occasional over zealous use of cold air conditioning, mainly in the dining car, which is understandable.

And finally,

c) Over use of the P.A. system, a curse of all modern day travel, world wide.

I do appreciate that these now necessary announcements are either Law, or to negate possible severe legal action in the event of an unfortunate occurrence. Only personnel are allowed access between vehicles on Rocky Mountaineer. I therefore pay tribute to the nice crew member who took me through to the rear-most vehicle for a clear view backwards.

On the other hand, the commentary throughout the journey was informative, entertaining and crucial to appreciating what was outside. Like on The Canadian, the loco crew would telephone wildlife sightings to the guides on the train.

If you have the opportunity, The Rocky Mountaineer is a “must-do”. However, allow several days to recover from jet lag so as to enjoy this spectacular journey “to the full.”

David

12.20 hrs Starbucks at the Hyatt Recency, Vancouver.

Even the Red Carpet treatment for Gold Leaf passengers!

The ROCKY MOUNTAINEER day 2, Monday 17th June. Day 18/69

I didn’t have the best of nights during my stopover at Kamloops; too much indulgence on the train, methinks!

Rocky Mountaineer warns in its publicity that its hotels are “moderate.” I disagree; the Delta (by Marriott) is a modern comfortable establishment with every conceivable amenity and a decent restaurant. Our bags could be left in our rooms and collected by the Train Company. What more service could anybody wish for.

I was far too weary to explore Kamloops last night, which is a pity. My former travelling neighbour, Marilynne, ventured down to the river and created excellent photographs of waterfowl and the sunset, which I enjoyed being shown.

Coaches (mine was No.14) collected us from our hotel. The only disappointment on arrival at Kamloops “train” station was that the lovely new carriage we were in yesterday was, because of an electrical issue, unfit for public use. I did, however, end up at a right hand window seat affording an interrupted vista. The pictures I will enclose with this blog don’t quite portray the enormous scale of the landscape through which we are travelling. Today, The Rocky Mountaineer is now 23 vehicles in length (not including the locomotives) after the train from Banff was attached at Kamloops.

Boarding the Rocky Mountaineer at Kamloops, 17th June. We departed on time at 08.00hrs

Leaving Kamloops, the landscape is dryer with far less growth. Vegetation increases as we venture westwards.

Again, a more arrid landscape. (below)

5 views from the Vestibule. (above)

Breakfast! (above)

(Below) “River Deep, Mountain High,” a selection of pictures taken before lunch.

By the time lunch was announced, both camera and phone needed re- charging. The next blog will include pictures taken on the outskirts of Vancouver.

This journey is now over. It must rank as one of the best rail trips I have ever taken. The Gold Leaf Class dome cars are among the finest observation vehicles I am aware of. Throughout the two days from Jasper, mile upon mile of what must be the most exciting, monumental, and spectacular countryside with huge alpine type mountains giving the sky a “run for its money.” I saw one black bear, a few eagles, and several round-horned sheep which I’m convinced were goats! The ambience on board was convivial, and the cuisine exquisite. Although I have relaxed my diet for the time being, i had to forego a magnificent chocolate gateaux and ice cream dessert. People at the table were “impressed.”

Now, I am in my hotel, Vancouver’s Hyatt Recency. My room is on the seventh of over 30 floors.

My next blog will be a series of photos taken today, particularly as this phenomenal railtour drew to an end.

Very best wishes, David. 20.15hrs.

17th June 2019.

Sunday 16th June 2019 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER.

In a recent blog, I wrote along the lines of “It surely can’t get better than this!

Yesterday in Jasper, despite being somewhat tired from almost four days on The Canadian, I was so taken with the loveliness of the town, that I just had to explore, and, I’m so glad that I did.

Last night, I “slept for England” and was awake by 6am, fully refreshed for today’s adventures.

The Rocky Mountaineer is every bit the high-end travel experience. “Tourist train” is not an adequate description, although I would have to learn to cope with the abundance of on train announcements, commentary and the irritating encouragement of “passenger-participation.”

My seat is in one of the latest German built double-deck observation carriages, not a scuff mark in sight. Although allocated a window seat, it was one of those with an almost adjacent pillar, restricting an otherwise panoramic view. The nice train manager soon found me a perfect location for the rest of the two day journey. Marilynne, my “neighbour” was delighted to take my original window seat; and I, very happy with a place with the whole window in front of me. An open vestibule down stairs allows photography without the annoying reflections when taking pictures through glass.

As you will see from the images, the weather is perfect, and Mount Robson, the highest in the Canadian Rockies, fully visible, which I am informed is a rare occurrence. Surely, it can’t get better than this!

Although not previously arranged, I was permitted to take advantage of the pre-boarding arrangements other guests had as part of their packages. This included transportation in a large comfortable coach to the station, after my luggage had been picked up from outside my hotel room at 6.50 this morning. This will be delivered to my accommodation at Kamloops. All I now have with me is a canvas bag containing various phone and camera leads.

It wasn’t long before we had entered British Columbia from Alberta. These are all places I learned about during geography lessons at school. That meant just one more time change, and yet again, I forgot to alter the time on my camera accordingly. We are now eight hours behind G.M.T.

We set off from Jasper sometime before 9am, it is now 2.30/3.30(Jasper). The catering is as good as any at high-end eateries; and for once, I allowed myself a glass of white wine!

My choice to leave The Canadian at Jasper seems to have been a good one. I would not have enjoyed the same photo opportunities from the previous train, and the “extra time” in the Rockies, courtesy of some previous “late-running” (The Canadian).

Below are pictures which have appeared in random order. The snow-capped mountain is the “rarely visible” Mount Robson.

5.15pm We are now approaching Kamloops after one of the most astonishing train rides for a very long time. Amongst the numerous announcements and commentary/entertainment, much of which I could have done without, was the information that our train consisted of ten vehicles; at Kamloops, a Rocky Mountaineer from Banff attaches creating a 24 car set for the rest of the journey to Vancouver. The scenery remains remarkable but with fewer trees.

The on board crew do go out of their way to please, and being accompanied through to the far end vestibule (forbidden without authority) was greatly appreciated. I thus cannot complain about the excess of information! For most of the passengers, this was part of a round trip which included Banff, other places and Jasper. I have met one couple who like me will return to the U.K. by way of Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth. Tomorrow, The Rocky Mountaineer leaves Kamloops at 8am, and I need to be at Reception by 7.10. I am assured my bags will be collected from my room.

Many thanks for reading.

David.

My day in Jasper, 15/6/19.

The stunning surrounding landscape prompted me not to catch up on lost sleep, but actually do something in this most attractive town. The hotel were unable to take care of a small bag of laundry, but recommended a firm in the town which goes under the title of “Three Sheets!” I need to report back before he shuts at 5pm. That ruled out a cable car trip which would have afforded incredible views from high up. The problem was the shuttle bus driver was on his lunch break. I did have the opportunity to look around town on what turned out to be a gorgeous day. The Tourist Information Centre suggested a tiny but attractive walk, which having dined on a home-made but rather greasy hash, I think I shall try out.

And I did try out the walk, following a trail, initially adjacent to the main road, and eventually through woodland typical of around here, along what I am informed is the Athabasca River towards Old Fort Point. Below are pictures taken during these picturesque meanderings. Around four pictures have failed to upload. However I think those pictures that have worked, testify that my brief time in Jasper was well spent.

I have checked in at the hotel for my journey to Vancouver, via Kamloops, on The Rocky Mountaineer .

Jasper: 15th June 2019.

The Canadian pulled into Jasper, Alberta at a little after 8.40 this morning. Had we arrived on time at Jasper, I would have missed the incredibly dramatic last two hours of my first glimpses of the Canadian Rockies.

Carriage cleaners used “cherry pickers” to clean the windows of the Dome Cars, somewhat filthy since Toronto, which was a pity.

My hotel, The Crimson, is a modern geometric structure affording generous panoramic views of the surrounding Rockies. Bits of snow lie in the mountains, where the sun has little or no effect. My room looks across to the railway…perfect! I am a little “heavy-eyed”, but will try to see and do as much as possible today. Again, it’s an early start tomorrow as we head ever westwards, this time on The Rocky Mountaineer.

However, I was saddened to leave my roving pad of almost 4 days, The Canadian. My “feedback” on this journey is positive; I would like to do it all again, sooner rather than later. The warnings of tedious landscape is nonsense. How can one tire of the endless lakes, forests and hills of The Canadian Shield. The Prairies from around Winnipeg were far from monotonous, as that landscape became more green and undulating.

The train itself was at least as good as I was expecting, albeit very slightly grubby from intensive use. All the on board staff “worked their socks off” to ensure each passenger had the time of his/her life. The shower worked perfectly, the beds more than adequate and mosta comfortable. and my room, equipped with everything one could need. The catering was excellent, especially dinner, which, if I drank, justified being accompanied by wine. Continental breakfast between 6.30 and 8.30 was followed by brunch, served until 2pm. One didn’t go hungry!

The train itself, is a massive silver “head-turner,” a reminder of the zenith of North American passenger trains. Long may it last! I do like VIA Rail! And I also like the Crimson Hotel where I wish I was staying for much longer. Now to explore!

David.

Last Day Bonus. Sat. 15th June 2019

Just what I wanted, at least two hours late running towards Jasper. Nevertheless, I wasn’t to know that when I crawled out of bed shortly after 5.30, with officially just an hour to disembark the train. But being greeted by some of the loveliest countryside I have ever seen, and then some of the most dramatic, with the morning sun further enhancing these vistas, two extra hours is a most welcome bonus. And, it seems we are delayed still further at a danger signal, surrounded by 360 degree magnificence.Hinton.We are due to pull into Jasper at 08.40hrs seven hours behind GMT. My cabin has been prepared for the next passenger who will have been waiting since before 6.30 this morning. Surely, it cannot “get any better than this.” It seems we are now pulling into the station, and I don’t think that I have forgotten anything.

More later, no doubt!

David. 08.38hrs 15/6/19. still on board The Canadian.

The CANADIAN : 12th – 15th June 2019

It wasn’t too easy sleeping on the final night of my stay in Toronto. The people at Union Station advised checking in for the train journey to Jasper somewhere between 7.30 and 8.00am for the retimed (again) 09.45hrs Train No 1 The Canadian,for stations to Vancouver, 4,466 km (2,775.044 miles) distant.

Well, I did manage to check in at 7.50, grabbed something to eat, and then be escorted with the other travellers onto the train. Looking along the platform at “coaches of stainless steel and chrome” prompted memories of recent very long distance travels in the Antipodes, and 50 years ago, boarding the Denver Zephyr in Chicago, for a full overnight journey.I was shown to my cabin for the next three nights. It was the largest available apart from those in Prestige Class at the rear of the train. The Canadian was supposed to depart the previous evening at 10.00pm.

Being retimed to the following morning provided a rare opportunity to travel in daylight for around 12 hours into ever more lovely countryside. Ontario, according to Jessica, the tour guide as far as Winnipeg, “spans an area the size of France and Spain combined.” I am sure that this is roughly correct. I find the endless vistas of forest, lake and skies awesome. My efforts to photograph and video this infinite landscape do not do justice to this unbelievably spectacular landscape. Below are a few modest images.

The last picture (above), I consider a “lucky” shot as the Toronto bound Canadian, VIA No.2 passes. (13/6/19).Very early this morning, it was foggy and wet. The mist cleared by the time I was finally getting up. Oatmeal was on the menu for breakfast, which I enjoyed with fresh fruit cocktail and coffee. Around lunchtime, we were allowed off the train at Sioux Lookout (pop. 5,037) while the locomotives were serviced.

Written today at 2.41pm local/train time. (The two can be different for short periods). David.

Further pictures from inside The Canadian.

The first two images are close to my accommodation; the last two were taken at the rear of the train. Published outside Winnipeg Station.

Gone now is that lovely Canadian Shield countryside.

DN. 20.31hrs GMT-6