Day 46 Freemantle.

The last time I was here, was, if I remember correctly, 12th February 2018, the very first time I set eyes on Australia, ever! It is fitting that for my last full day in Australia, I took the train from Perth to Fremantle for a final excursion, this time to Rottnest Island via the SeaLink ferry. I don’t quite know what to expect. Today, it’s hot as midday approaches. Hey! it’s a bumpy crossing today – maybe it always is.

In the meantime, here are some pictures I took last night around the Crown Casino complex where I spent the final three days Down-under.

More on today’s adventures later.

Thanks for reading.

David.

Day 45 Perth, Western Australia, day 1 of 2.

I owe it to myself to, as ever, see as much as possible in the two “free days” I have here in Perth, Western Australia, being all too aware that my being here in the future is highly unlikely. I have booked a trip to Rockness Island tomorrow, giving myself just under four hours to explore “under my own steam”. Yesterday, I availed myself of an interesting “best-of” tour offered by the Indian Pacific, which included being dropped off at my hotel, The Crown Promenade, another extravagant find by my excellent travel company. For a second time, my 70th birthday was marked, this time, by a small gift and card. These touches are making this world tour even more special, if that was possible!

Now, I wish I hadn’t partaken of that big brekky! I find myself on a lunch cruise on the Swan River. The red bus tour to begin with, was a good start to the day, revisiting some places pointed out yesterday, as well as a much more comprehensive tour of Kings Park, which is emphasised frequently as the largest inner-city park in the world, including New York’s Central Park.

This river cruise is very nice; I do feel like I have made ‘reasonable’ use of the day; the feeling of fatigue from the three day train journey from Adelaide having not quite worn off yet. And probably, introducing my body to a glass of Sauvignon Blanc for a second time on this holiday will have helped little! Nevertheless, this afternoon trip is extremely pleasant.

The sky, in the morning, was cloudless; this afternoon, small “cotton wool” fluffs compliment an otherwise clear blue sky. We are, of course, on The Swan River and having meandered seemingly around Perth to begin with, we are now, heading towards a more rural (or treelined) very expensive suburbia, in the direction of the Swan Valley and Guildford. (We didn’t get as far as that). Lunch was splendid, a hot and cold buffet with plenty of choice, including a decent curry. I enjoyed being reminded of my first day in Australia last year. It was hot then, and it is today, but not unbearably so.

After the boat trip was over, I decided to take a free bus around the City before heading back to the hotel. There are several routes on which buses run frequently and keep most places well connected. There are four such services; I went around Perth on the “Blue CAT”. I saw a mixture of architecture, some dilapidated but worthy of restoration, some old but restored having found new use, and of course, the space age futuristic stuff that is popping up everywhere. Perth is certainly “clean” and its futuristic development is in a taste which I don’t feel offends – quite the opposite in fact. But how this imaginative architecture will fair over the years remains to be seen.

Once again, here are images taken during the day, of which I took only a handful. All except the last two were taken during the afternoon lunch cruise during which two of us were celebrating 70th birthdays. Larry’s was today, give or take a few hours time difference; he and his wife hail from the USA. What pleased me is that we were not inundated with endless commentary on the boat, but more than enough to make the voyage interesting. My afternoon turned out to be well worth it. The hotel complex where I am staying is seen from two images taken during the river cruise. Most of the complex is less than two years old, but I suspect where I am staying is well established. Nevertheless, it is still “high-end” luxury.

Singapore Airlines e-mailed me yesterday to “bid for an upgrade” to Premium Economy. I submitted a bid at the lower end of the suggested price range. I wish they had offered Business or First Class; I may just have been tempted! I shall have an early night tonight so that I can savour every morsel minute of my last full day in Australia tomorrow.

The Dream still hangs on in there!

All the best,

David.

Day 44. A few facts about the Indian Pacific.

Inaugural run from Sydney to Perth, 23rd February 1970 five days before my 21st Birthday!

Sydney to Perth: 4,352 kilometres, 3 nights and the best part of 4 days journey duration, including off train excursions and meals.

Average train length 731 metres, weight, 1,390 tonnes. (From official guide book)

I will have to ascertain details from Adelaide, which is 2 nights, and the best part of 3 days. The guide book states a total of 29 carriages. On train staff tell me there are three units of four sleeping vehicles, one Outback Explorer Lounge Car, named after a famous pioneer, and The Queen Adelaide Restaurant. In addition, three further vehicles house Platinum guests in hotel style luxury, along with one composite dining and lounge car. Two power vans each generate 180 kVA, to service 14 cars with electricity. There are also staff sleeping quarters.

Photos I saw of today’s train taken at Broken Hill indicate the train was double headed. However, just one locomotive worked the train forward from Adelaide, where a Motorail vehicle was attached. I understand each locomotive to be of around 4,000 horse power. Water and fuel is taken on at pre arranged locations en route.

Just 20 passengers enjoy the luxury of Platinum Class in their own exclusive section of the train. 182 further passengers don’t have such a bad time in Gold Single, which is cramped but comfortable or Gold Double, which, for single occupancy, attracts a hefty supplement, but, is well worth it for a journey of this kind. The private bathroom and shower facilities are an amazing luxury. By necessity, in “Gold Double” these, that are built into each compartment, have to be far more compact than those available at the end of the single berth sleeping car. I treated myself to an upgrade to Gold Double on the Indian Pacific, the final leg of my Australian rail travels. Pictures below illustrate:-

1) Lounge Car

2) Corner of the Queen Adelaide Restaurant Car

3) Corridor of Gold Double sleeper

4) Queen Adelaide Restaurant, general view.

I slept reasonably well on the second night of my journey from Adelaide. There were bumps and vibrations which did hamper a peaceful sleep, but this did not prevent my having the best of times as The Indian Pacific thundered through the now increasingly lush and hilly countryside as we came ever closer to journey’s end at the Perth East Terminal.

1) My accommodation in “day mode”

2) The blog author, David J.P. Nevell

3) Final lunch on The Indian Pacific

4) Having alighted The Indian Pacific at its terminus, East Perth.

5 and 6) I saw this preserved locomotive, No. 542 “Bakewell” during my very first day in Australia in 2018. At that time, I had sought the terminus of the Indian Pacific in the hope of obtaining information. However, it was a Sunday and nobody was around. Nevertheless, the sight of a steam locomotive negated, to some degree, my frustration!

My travels in Australia finish at roughly the same area as they started last year. Travelling on the Indian Pacific was, for me, a landmark experience. However, when asked what has been the highlight of my tour so far, it has to be the flight in a tiny plane to Ayers Rock, and the visit there in general. I have enjoyed all the rail travel, from little commuter metro trains to the big daddies, The Ghan and the Indian Pacific, not forgetting the XPTs and the “Spirit of Queensland”. I have finished my Antipodean travels for (I hope) the time being. The thought of repeating some of these trips, as well as embarking some new ones is most appealing! In three days, the slow journey home begins.

Thanks for reading, David.

Day 43 of 73. Nullarbor Cook and Rawlinna

I awoke refreshed from an unexpectedly good night’s sleep, the first of two on board that most epic of trains, the Indian Pacific. At 6am, I wound up the venetian blinds only to see a heap of derailed container wagons which had “come off the road” a month previously. The Indian Pacific on that day was ahead of the incident which blocked the line for several days. I wasn’t quick enough to get pictures. The journey west through South Australia and into Western Australia was through an interesting and very arid landscape which became increasingly flat as the day progressed. People saw dingos and the very occasional kangaroo. All in our carriage saw caravans of camels on both sides of the train. But for most of the time, scrub growth and boulders punctuated the flat dry, and hot terrain. Dusty brown/orange and green are the colours which come to mind recalling trundling along the world’s longest stretch of straight railway. I noticed a board marking the boundary between South and Western Australia. We called briefly at Cook, once a thriving settlement, a support community for the railway particularly during construction and at times of maintenance. Just four people live there now, but somehow it is not as desolate as I might have expected. I enjoyed crossing the Nullarbor Plains and tried to savour every rare moment. Dinner was served off the train at Rawlinna Station, under what should have been one of those clear starry nights. Some thin cloud prevented the spectacular night sky display I was hoping for. “Orion’s Belt” was clearly visible as were other stars which weren’t obscured by cloud.

Passengers were seated at long rows of wooden picnic tables, lit by individual L.E.D. lights. It was all very atmospheric as the train’s resident entertainer serenaded the diners with popular songs on his guitar. He was received warmly and a couple of people danced to Waltzing Matilda, a slow and haunting interpretation. All too soon, we were back on the train and continuing our journey westwards. As far as I was concerned, a unique evening the memory of which I shall treasure.

Thanks for reading, David

1 – 12 We were allowed 30 minutes while the train was serviced at Cook.

13 -16 Dinner on the platform at Rawlinna.

I cannot add further, without repeating myself, to how very special this journey is turning out to be.

(10.07hrs 16/3/19)

Day 42 of 73 Oh no! Not more trains….

Well yes, actually. The thing is, I ran out of time, yesterday at The National Railway Museum. But also, I figured there was much more to see. So, after packing for the final leg of my Australian railtour, I made my way, after breakfast, via various shopping malls, back to the Railway Station for a train once again to Port Adelaide. By strange coincidence, I bumped into Roger, who I got into conversation with the day before. Contact details were exchanged. I found another shedload of treasures I had overlooked inadvertently yesterday. Time was limited; my taxi to the rail terminal was booked for 16.45 hours.

It’s now 21.15hrs. Great Southern Rail laid on a splendid dinner at Adelaide Parkland Station in impressive new premises adjoining the platform. My carry-on baggage was delivered to my cabin. This is much better; I have a double compartment to myself and there seems to be three times the space as there was in the single compartments on The Ghan. I did, however, pay a fairly hefty suppliment, which I do feel was worth the extra. The only downside I would ascertain when getting to bed, was that compartment 8 in coach “M” was directly over the bogies meaning the sensation of every bump, rail joint, and break application and other rumblings are felt much more prominently. I feared a sleepless night and requested a move. A bed was made up three coaches away in single accommodation which I was welcome to use. The next thing I knew, it was a bright sunny morning as we trundled sedately through the dry arid remaining part of South Australia. The bathroom facilities are part of the cabin but are far less spacious than those at the end of the coach. Nevertheless, this does represent a high degree of luxury in rail travel. At dinner, I sat next to Christine, a former secretary who had travelled the Indian Pacific around 15 times. There is still demand for rail travel; all the journeys I made in Australia were well filled, The Ghan full to capacity. Opposite, Norma and David on their journey of a lifetime.

Now, I am settled in my much more roomy cabin. Train time has been retarded 90 minutes, making for a relaxing journey. Unlike The Ghan, there is but a half hour stop at Cook tomorrow. I bought a pile of memorabilia in the souvenir shop, including the last “Overland” baseball cap. Seemingly, that train is “hanging on in there”. We are on our way, now to Perth in Western Australia. And tomorrow, we spend the day crossing the Nullarbor Plains. I like that I can turn off the lights and see out at night.

Here are a few pictures taken during the day.

1) Adelaide Railway Station

2 – 5) National Railway Museum

6 – 8) Back in Adelaide

9) The Majestic Roof Garden Hotel

10 – 13) Inside Adelaide Parklands Station including the tables laid for dinner. The “author” poses outside the train.

I didn’t have any desire to leave Adelaide, and hopefully I may be able to do the place justice on a future visit. But right now, I am savouring every moment of this adventure.

The Dream Continues.

David.

Day 41 Port Adelaide, Australia’s National Railway Museum.

I think Day 41 is the fourth complete day of this 73 day world tour that there were no organised plans. The first was in San Francisco, and two on board Queen Mary in Long Beach. Having slept off my travel fatigue, which was nothing like as bad as I had feared, I decided to fulfil another wish, and that was to spend the best part of a day at Australian National Railway Museum in the once heavily industrialized Port Adelaide. The hotel reception issued clear instructions on how to find the station from where to take the appropriate train. Station staff sold me an all day ticket which meant that I could take as much time as I wished at the museum. The 20 minute journey was on a diesel powered metro train. Adelaide’s suburbia seemed pleasant enough with interesting and attractive housing along part of the railway. With one simple instruction from a passer-by I had no difficulty finding the museum, in not the most inspiring of locations. (I have to say that York’s counterpart is similar, Leeman Road is not in an architecturally attractive surrounding). But in both places, treasures await. In Port Adelaide, I was encouraged to take the little train which circumnavigates the museum – twice. Although meant for small children, I did get an initial overview of what there was to see, and an opportunity for some rare video footage. Inside, a plethora of locomotives, coaches, wagons, all rescued from oblivion, along with smaller artefacts and a most impressive and large model railway. There was coaching stock from an earlier Overland, and the sleepers were even more compact than the one I jig-sawed myself into on The Ghan.

I took a lunch break in a small nearby mall, texting happily as I put away a chicken sandwich and coffee.

I returned to the museum at about 3.45, to be reminded that they close at 4.30. They did let me wander to anywhere I wished to, including places closed off to the public. All in all, a most fulfilling day out. I would meet a railfan on my way back to Adelaide and found ourselves comparing heart bypass operations! His was more recent than mine and still giving occasional problems. I suggested a coffee, but strangely, the opportunity to have an al fresco brew did not present itself. I purchased a new case for this phone; the other had become frayed and was prone to ruining pictures. Talking of pictures, here are a few taken today. Mainly trains.

Thanks for following my blog,

David

1 to 36 Views taken while walking around the Museum.

37 to 43 Walking from the hotel to the station.

Day 40 Adelaide.

I hope my travel agent is reading this; I am hugely impressed how smoothly this world tour is progressing. The bulk of my Australian travels have all panned out in accordance with the detailed itinerary issued to me in January. Yet again, I am in what must be upgraded accommodation at the lovely Majestic Roof Garden Hotel, Adelaide, this time with breakfast included. (I hadn’t noticed that detail!) Their service is impeccable; my laundry has been delivered, and the bags I left behind, waiting for me in my nice new suite. Dinner tonight is in the next door San Giorgio Ristorante. Mediterranean chicken, I am hoping might be a more sensible choice than sweet and sour pork! (I have just remembered the fabulous tomato soup served up at The Mido restaurant in Sale!) It’s strange what memories are prompted on the other side of the world. There’s a huge festival right now in Adelaide, including a fringe. Not much sign of opera so far! But, a joyous noisy ambience spills out everywhere.

I am tired tonight, but tomorrow, I shall take the opportunity to explore. I also have the bulk of the following day before re-joining my friends at Great Southern Railway for dinner ahead of the railtour “grand finale” on the Indian Pacific.

It’s time for bed now; for those of you reading this in the U.K., g’day!

All the best,

David.

1) Original bridge over the Murray River. (Still in use)

2) View from The Overland of the present rail bridge we were about to cross

3 and 4) Inside Red Premium accommodation on The Overland

5) Premium Guests only beyond this point

6) Inside the Catering Vehicle

7) Great Southern Railway Coaching stock in store at Adelaide.

Day 40 The Overland

I think (hope) this is the last of the early mornings. With those early wake up calls on the Ghan, an unexpected early start for the Puffing Billy trip yesterday, and having to check in at Melbourne Southern Cross Station before 07.30hrs this morning, I am starting to feel “the effects”. I am now settled and enjoying, thoroughly, this train ride back from Melbourne to Adelaide.

This rail journey between Melbourne and Adelaide, “fills in” a small but penultimate piece of my aim to journey around the world by train, bus and ship. The last piece between New York, Toronto and Vancouver in June this year, fulfils that long-held ambition.

I do like The Overland, a proper loco hauled train of around 7 stainless steel coaches, offering both Red and Premium Red Class, where in the latter, breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea are included in the fare. The seats are like arm chairs in 2 + 1 configuration giving enough leg room for somebody over 7 feet tall! I am saddened that this service is being withdrawn; it serves many towns between Melbourne and Adelaide, and I am sure it will be sorely missed. From what I gather, one State’s government is withdrawing funding. “Sounds familiar!” (North Shore 1st stop).

NORTH SHORE

I am beginning to “come round” since extracating myself from bed at 6.10 this morning, and having enjoyed breakfast of beans and bacon on toast and a much needed coffee. I also had a bowl of cereal at the hotel, just because breakfast there was pre-paid.

Last night, after my steam train trip, and wending my way back from Belgrave to the City, I tucked into a delicious “diabetic (un)friendly” Chinese sweet and sour pork with boiled rice, at a restaurant which appeared to be part of a Chinese community, opposite my hotel. Actually, there seems to be a vast Chinese influence accross all of this continent. Chicken and sweet corn soup preceded the main course which brought back teenage memories of the Mido restaurant in Northenden Road, Sale, now regarded as part of Greater Manchester. The sweet and sour pork in Melbourne was “identical!”

It’s now just after 9.30, and The Overland is now in open flat countryside as it heads westwards. (See last picture) The fields appear brown through lack of rain; today a pale grey sky may give up some much needed precipitation. We are now on a stretch of “single line”. (09.42hrs), and once again, I am experiencing a further brief glimpse of Australia as we progress towards our next stop, Ararat.

ARARAT 11.34am (approx).

(Video taken leaving Ararat)

The train announcer informs us that Ararat is the first Chinese settlement in Australia. What little I saw from the train gave no hint at such.

STAWELL 11.58 approx.

Now there’s something I have not seen for decades, line-side telegraph wires! Childhood and teenage memories.

HORSHAM 12.48hrs

Still part of Public Transport Victoria (PTV)

Now, all we need is jointed rail and steam!

DIMBOOLA 13.10hrs (PTV) Driver/ loco crew relieved here. It looks as if the only outside pictures I can take of the train will be at Adelaide. The doors were locked around 15 minutes before departure from Melbourne.

NHILL 13.39 approx.

These stops are for but a few seconds. Apparently the grain silo which dates back to the 1920s is the largest in the southern hemisphere and it is here at Nhill.

Crossed from Victoria into South Australia 14.16 hrs. Time now 13.46hrs. Running 5 – 10 minutes late.

I wouldn’t be surprised if we had made up any lost time. Station dwells were mere seconds in duration leaving me wondering if anybody left or boarded the train at these very brief station calls. The slightly grey skies of this morning, complete with rainbow at one point, have given way to something very much clearer and brighter. No rain for the foreseeable future then. 15.28hrs South Australia Time. Afternoon Tea is just being trollied to coach A. From what I see, I may well “pass” on that; the cakes are definitely a “no-no!” I discover that I have two nights in Adelaide before completing my Australian railtour on the Indian Pacific to Perth. Being mid-week, I should be able to catch up on laundry, and, perhaps some post card writing, as well as explore the city. Catching up on those early rises is also high on my list of priorities. I have purchased a number of Ghan and Overland goodies, particularly as the latter finishes later this year. These, I will post to the U.K.

I never mentioned our call at Murray Bridge. From the train, the first bridge over the Murray River, can be seen as we pass over a more recent, but still traditional structure.

16.20hrs. We have climbed into hilly countryside from the vast plains and glimpses of the Grampians that came before, still in Victoria. There is just over an hour before we reach our destination, and the end of another magnificent rail journey. The days are going quickly, just like at home. As we travel through the hills towards Adelaide, I am reminded of last year’s visit to Cleland Wildlife Park where kangaroos and emus were aplenty. I am unsure whether those twig stumps I saw from the train to Cairns were in fact kangaroos!

MURRAY BRIDGE 15.47hrs

Next stop, ADELAIDE at 17.30.

Earlier, I wrote but deleted my only issue with recent rail journeys, that is far too many back to back announcements at the beginning of the journey; I remember trains before the advent of on board P.A. systems. I do figure that much of this is an excersise in negating company liability in the event of something going wrong. That, I do appreciate but surely the signage in the toilets is pretty clear! Once all that was taken care of, further announcements were relevant and contributed to an already wonderful travel experience. I hope this train gets a reprieve, it has been a privilege and enormous pleasure to travel on THE OVERLAND.

Many thanks for reading.

David.

Day 39. Melbourne, Belgrave and Gembrook.

Since my ever so brief visit to the Puffing Billy narrow gauge steam railway as part of a Cunard QM2 shore excursion last year, it was my somewhat extravagant and fanciful desire to see the railway “properly”, i.e. travel the full distance both ways. Cunard’s much publicised trip was merely a three mile one way “sampler” to Menzies Creek. This was one of the few occasions on that World Voyage that I was not pleased! I didn’t expect, really, that I would get to travel its full length so soon after last year’s cruise. But, here I am, at the time of an Australian Holiday, seeing all that the Puffing Billy Railway has to offer. Back in 1900, the railway’s purpose in life was to connect remote settlements in the Dandenong Ranges to the wider world, as well as conveying all manner of agricultural produce for wider distribution e.g. to Melbourne and beyond. Being of extraordinary scenic beauty, and being cooler than Melbourne for much of the year, the railway became immensely popular as a “day out”, so much so that a fleet of open-sided passenger cars were introduced for a new tourist trade. Dating back to 1919, these survive today; I am sure Google would provide some kind of more detailed history.

The day didn’t get off to a good start. My sleep was much disturbed by an incomprehensible air-condition unit that was noisy, and did not seem to obey commands programmed from a remote control. That was the principle reason for being unable to sleep well last night. However, I was prepared for the day. Next, the hotel hadn’t been informed that breakfast had been prepaid. I had to wait for some time to have this cleared up; I did have the appropriate paperwork to hand. Now, I had to “leg it” to Parliament Station for the train, due at 08.16hrs. I just made it, forgetting to click in my newly acquired “myki” card….a bit like London’s Oyster Card. That error cost me an extra $6.00. The day improved as it progressed. It was good to make my own way to Belgrave, 40km from Melbourne. A rail replacement bus service provided an opportunity to observe suburbia. The ride on the Puffing Billy Railway went to plan; I was invited to travel with the guard in his vehicle of surrounding views. The train crew were all welcoming and helpful. The countryside we travelled through was worth travelling from England to experience. There are slight hints of autumn as some of the trees are beginning to change colour. And I was very happy to have spent the full afternoon travelling between Belgrave and Gembrook.

Tomorrow, it’s back to Adelaide on board The Overland. In the meantime, some pictures.

Thanks for reading, David.