David's Cruise

I had a super trip on The Ghan. Much of this, I may have written about previously. However, a journey on the Ghan is worthy of the fullest account I can bring to mind. Right now, I am on a very quick flight to Melbourne, less than an hour, with a “promised bumpy approach!” (12.17hrs Adelaide time). I think it’s half an hour later in Melbourne! And it’s Sunday; I must seek out a church. Surviving that flight over Ayers Rock, I have much to be thankful for!

Already, I have described the first day on The Ghan, being coached from the Mantra Hotel in Darwin to a purpose built rail terminal where, for the first time, you get to be awed by the sheer size and length of the train which will be your “home” for the next three nights, nearly 4 days. Your large luggage is stowed away until the end of the journey, and remains inaccessible throughout. I took on board a small suitcase and shoulder bag, far too much for my immediate needs! And I must confess to initial concern about how tiny the Gold Service Single cabins are. But I did figure I would be able to “jig-saw” my way in and out when required. My seat faced the direction of travel, and at night, the made-up bed lined up against the window. Venetian blinds acted as very effective curtains between two pains of double glazing, operated by a handle at the top right hand corner of the window, reminding me of the short-lived Midland Pullman which ran Manchester Central and London St. Pancras between 1961 and around 1965, whose windows were of similar arrangement. (We are dropping into Melbourne now, and how glad I am not to be in a tiny prop-plane! I am no longer phased by the turbulence, which today, precluded the service of hot drinks). Virgin Australia very kindly bumped me up to Economy X, i.e. priority boarding and extra legroom. The flight was routine. Apparently, Melbourne is just half an hour in front of Adelaide.

Back to the Ghan.

The train left Darwin at precisely 10.00. We trundled gently south, enjoying our first lunch in the Queen Adelaide dining car. All the dining cars in Great Southern’s fleet appear to bear the same name; it remains to be seen whether the interiors are identical, this I shall ascertain when finish my rail travels on the Indian Pacific between Adelaide and Perth.

We were allowed time to settle into our private,and (in my case) very cosy accommodation. There was just enough room for my two pieces of carry-on luggage, a miniature wardrobe for one jacket, and other storage areas the very limited space would allow. In fact, the compartment exhibited brilliant design and proved adequate for purpose.

In time, one of the friendly train staff called with a list of optional tours one could chose from. Most were included in the fair; those involving aircraft carried an “upgrade” surcharge. And the trip to Ayers Rock attracted a substantial surcharge of $1,249! I calculated that, to return to Ayers Rock on a specific visit from the U.K. would be several times this hefty charge. I have described, already, the first off-train excursion to Katherine. The destination was fine, scenic idyllic etc., but the tour guides had far too much to say, which irritated rather than informed. This was not a problem with the tours that followed. But, these guides were no less informative and were a joy to have as “leaders”.

You will have guessed or already ascertained that I did sign up for Uluru, the Aboriginal name for Ayers Rock. I had been determined to set eyes on this incredible geological monolith, which I understand, like an iceberg is much bigger out of sight than that which rises from the ground. I had no misgivings about the flight; I looked forward to this rare opportunity to see Uluru from above. This was a full day trip, which sadly, had us not seeing the Rock at sunset, when it’s colours richer and change as the sun goes down. We arrived at the airfield, where around three or four small aeroplanes were waiting to take the maximum number of participants allowed to join this “day of a lifetime”.

I was one of three in our six seater prop-plane. The pilot exuded confidence and authority as well as being welcoming and reassuring, particularly when the turbulence kicked in. I forgot any unexpected misgivings on the outward flight; the whole thing was a miracle. With both phone and camera at the ready, I was recording the wondrous sights of a remote vast desert, bits of vegetation here and there, dirt tracks which seemed to lead nowhere and very occasional signs of life, like toys, 6,000 feet below. I never was so thrilled and apprehensive at the same time. Then came the salt lakes, looking like vast areas of white opal without opal’s vivid colours. In the distance, a faint silhouette at first, the unmistakable profile of Ayers Rock. Like a crescendo in music, Uluru manifested itself increasingly as we flew ever closer. In minutes we were viewing The Rock from every angle, before, as a kind of bonus, we flew further to another spectacular rock formation I am informed are the Olgas. All these are illustrated in my previous blog. Eventually, after almost two hours, we touched down at a remote airfield where road transport was waiting to take all participants for a picnic lunch in a covered area overlooked by The Rock. After we finished our Ghan packed lunches, we were taken to a couple of locations at the very foot of Ayers Rock, as well as being driven around its base. It was as if we were the only ones there….very wonderful. Being mid afternoon, the colours were not quite as,dramatic as they would be later in the day. But, that mission was accomplished to the fullest possible and I returned with my two flying companions back to the airfield where we boarded the planes at the beginning of the trip.

That wasn’t the end of the day. In the evening, the train’s entire compliment of passengers were taken to a barbecue dinner at the location the Australian Telegraph was established in the 19th Century. One thing that wouldn’t go away throughout the day was a state-wide infestation of (thankfully harmless) flies. They were everywhere, and from outside, it must have looked amusing as everybody was engaged brushing these insects away. They buzzed all round Ayers Rock, every time we were not on the coach, and particularly during the early stages of our al-fresco dinner. When the temperature dropped as the sun went down, the infestation also disappeared…until the next day. During dinner, we were entertained by a most enjoyable country band, educated in astronomy by a fluent and communicative presenter, pointing to the stars with a laser beam. (That was incredible). There were other “history lessons” which unfortunately, I missed owing to having needed to search for the “bathroom”. Camel rides were on offer before and during dinner. I declined the opportunity, suddenly feeling alarmed at how high I was going to be on the back of one of these. I declined a similar opportunity last year at Petra! The entire evening was a brilliant piece of organisation and most unusual. Towards the end of the night, some staying to the end danced to the band as they played a selection of well known pop songs. All in all, a night to remember, a very special treat.

So then to the last full day. On this day, I would travel with new found acqaintances over the desert lands similar to those I was seeing from above, the previous day. We ventured to the opal mining settlement of Coober Pedy, where because it is so very hot, many inhabitants still live, work and worship underground. We had our lunch underground, and excellent it was too. I understand there are a million shafts from where opal is still mined, more mechanically these days. I have to say that I found the opal souvenir shop eye wateringly expensive; a piece was interested in was $100,000….£60 grand! Although far more reasonable, I did resist the temptation to buy an opal faced watch. We visited an underground home (possibly a mock-up) complete with lounge, kitchen, TV and unique sleeping accommodation, a mine where our tour guide had worked, an underground church (Serbian) and had our midday meal underground. Coober Pedy is completely self sufficient, with independent water and electricity supplies not connected to the Australian Grid. A most interesting and, again, unusual day.

Final dinner was in the dining car, as was brunch the following morning.

The Ghan is one way of seeing “off the beaten track” Australia. So, of course is driving, or crossing the Continent on buses. The train is a destination in itself and makes for a very convivial few days. It does attract repeat business. Great Southern are introducing a new service in April, which I suspect may be a replacement for the Overland, whose future I fear is limited. “The Great Southern” will run between Adelaide and Brisbane, via Melbourne and Canberra. A future treat methinks.

Today, I find myself in Melbourne. Much to my dismay, catching the steam train from Belgrave tomorrow at 11.10 means having to be up before 7am. And the next day, I am supposed to allow up to two hours for boarding The Overland for Adelaide.

Tonight, after a little exploration, I found this lovely Italian eatery, the Spaghetti Tree. (I have the business cards to prove I have NOT been April fooled – in March!) The much needed lunch/dinner was delicious. Rather than ask me to vacate my table, now that I have long since finished my meal, the waitress furnished me with a fresh bottle of water, while I completed this blog. But that just about brings my writings up to date. As I write, I read of a dreadful air disaster on a drop down display on my phone.

More news soon. Thanks for reading.

David.

Below:

1) City bus service to and from the airport

2) Virgin Australia plane. I think ours was a Boeing 737/800

3) A Melbourne vintage tram

These are the first days on this round the world trip that I have not written a blog as each day progressed. Simply, there was so much going on. Within minutes, the three day marathon train journey, that is the southbound Ghan, arrives at its final destination, Adelaide. I feel as if I have seen a great deal in a

relatively short time, and three days on a train, albeit with lengthy daytime off train excursions does not feel like forever, although I am now rather tired. And, yes, I have seen Ayers Rock (Uluru).

I shall, of course write a retrospective account of these remarkable four days. We shall be enduring temperatures ten degrees cooler than what we enjoyed in the desert, a mere 27 degrees Celsius.

Firstly, I shall be taken to my hotel courtesy of Great Southern Railway where I prepare for the next leg of my World Tour – to Melbourne. Then, to locate a post office from where to send more stuff to the U.K. Then, a wander around Adelaide is the order of the rest of the day.

I am now settled in at my hotel, the Majestic Roof Garden, in another splendid suite, but with no view at all. That does not matter, however. Three days on the Ghan Expedition Train has, despite sleeping well on board, left me a little “heavy-eyed”. A few of us from the Ghan Expedition Train are staying here, and Kate, from Aberdeen has invited me to join her for “happy hour” sustenance at the hotel’s roof garden.

I need only take a small bag with me, tomorrow with enough attire for a couple of days. During the brief flight, I shall aim to catch up with some kind of account of my journey on the world’s longest passenger train. Much as I wouldn’t have missed Ayers Rock for anything, I am not sure I wish to fly in a tiny aeroplane anytime soon. I never felt so vulnerable! But, then again, I did exploit the rare opportunity for photography from the air, and I did see the most extraordinary of sights and colours. To have flown over the salt lakes, like sheets of marble, Uluru, and what I believe are the Olgas, was a rare privilege. Total flying time was almost four hours in two sessions. We were shown Uluru also from ground level, where a packed lunch was provided, and also up against this spiritual mound with its rock paintings carbon dated to between 5 and 7,000 years. Astonishing! What was also astonishing, was that we appeared to be the only people there, just over 20 of us, who had come in four separate aircraft. One of our party was a very spirited 96 year old lady, who was enjoying herself to the full, and had the stamina to take part in everything the Ghan Expedition Train had to offer. Her daughter acted as her very proud carer, and ensured “Mother” had the time of her life.

So, here are few pictures. There is a lot here; there may be some difficulty.

Thanks for reading,

David.

The Ghan Expedition Train is turning out very much as I imagined when I first booked the trip; cruise style “shore excursions” with over enthusiastic tour guides. At 70, I need a break from non-stop amplified information, no matter how interesting it all is. We journeyed by coach and boat through some awesome and dramatic landscape, which, I would not have missed for the world. I am looking forward, with pleasure, to a day at Alice Springs, and, hopefully, the flight to Uluru.

Today, day 1 of 4, our first call was at the Katherine, a town with population of 11,000 named after the daughter of explorer John Stewart. It is thriving, although our tourist guide emphasised that around five years ago, pollution of the water supply was beginning to affect adversely, those living there. The source of this contamination has been identified and suitable “action” is on-going.

We were taken by coach to the Nitmiluk Gorge for a brief but very scenic cruise to its end, where, recently discovered, were rock paintings dating back, I understand, 4,000 years. They were not obvious until pointed out by our “informative” guide, who explained their meanings and relevance. Below, a selection of pictures taken while off the train. With luck, I may later, be able to elaborate further on the rock art illustrated in the pictures which follow.

More news later.

The Dream Continues,

David.

So, this is it. Day 1 of an epic 3 night 4 day expedition train journey from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Adelaide, South Australia. Much to my surprise, transport has been laid on to Darwin Station, saving a substantial taxi fare. This is the first train of the season, so the Ghan representative tells me, and is full….so, no upgrades then! It is with sadness that I leave Darwin after merely a one night stopover. The bus made a couple of further hotel stops; twenty or so minutes later, we were there! 10.00hrs, we are off; the journey begins! And, I discover, reading my on board tour details, Uluru is going to set me back $1,249….and, I have just made my reservation.

My private compartment on the train is tiny, and very difficult to photograph. The bed, when made up, will, like that on the Spirit of Queensland, line up with the window. The passengers, well dressed retirees, and so far, uninspiring. But it’s early days. The train is astonishing, comprising 36 vehicles hauled by the two locomotives pictured. More on this as the journey progresses. The train length, 902 metres, approx, weight, 1768 tonnes, on board crew, 49/50. Originally, the line from Adelaide (1929) terminated at Alice Springs. Construction commenced in 2001, of the extension to Darwin, 1420 kilometres distant. This is more than a train ride, it’s a rare opportunity to see vastly remote and difficult places to get to. It’s Wednesday today; the journey ends on Saturday!

I couldn’t just settle down to a night in my room. The sea and gorgeous humid weather was out there. Rock bands serenade diners at al fresco eateries. I just had to join in!

To begin with, I took a stroll along what I assume is the Esplanade, one of the loveliest seafront I can imagine. Worried about possible insect problems, I didn’t venture too far. I went into a supermarket to purchase some anti histamine just in case. Already I had been wowed by a sunset of pyrotechnic proportions, which I hope my photographs may illustrate. The rock band at the restaurant I chose to have supper at makes for a feel-good ambience like no other. But, tomorrow, I have to crawl out of bed at around 6.30am to make my own way to Darwin Station for that marathon of journeys by train from the top of Australia (where I wish I could hang around for a while) to the bottom of Oz.

Here are tonight’s pictures, my hotel and room, and a Northern Territory sunset.

Long Live the Dream

David.

Above, dinner outside.

More tomorrow.

David.

For a while, I had taken a dislike to flying. That objection ceased after enjoying, unexpectedly, a “necessary” flight in the harsh winter of 2014 to New York to pick up a detailed model of Queen Mary 2 from a friend who had no further use for it. Since then, I have enjoyed the rare views one can experience at such an unnatural height. Today’s brief flight from Cairns to Darwin was no exception. Two and a half hours of either seeing the ground so far below, or mountains of white cloud, or, bit of each. My confidence in this miracle of airborne travel is restored! I was told that it takes three to four days to make this journey by coach. The plane took two and a half hours!

My nice new suitcase is a vast improvement on that cumbersome one whose handle broke. I no longer have to request assistance at hotels, or seek luggage trolleys at airports. If there are future trips like this, where I move from hotel to hotel, I will need to be far more economic on how much I take. I still have masses of unworn clothes, although it has been necessary to use laundry facilities as the opportunity arises.

The hotel at Darwin, Mantra by the Esplanade is another “stunner” at which I have been upgraded to a suite almost the size of my house. Australia does luxury very well indeed.

Before it gets dark, I am going for a wander. The palm tree lined beach is opposite.

The Dream Lives On

David.

Reading some of the blogs I have “published”, it occurs to me that I may have showed signs of malcontent.

“Day 29” is titled “How terribly Strange to be Seventy”. I was not feeling strange at all! This merely is a quote from a Simon and Garfunkel album track, “Bookends” if I am not much mistaken. That line did make an impression when I read/heard it at an impressionable early age.

“David’s Got a Brand New Bag” is an obvious misquote from (I think) a Wilson Pickett track. If I am wrong on this one, I will mention it in a future blog.

Living the Dream!

David.

Once again, I am moving on. What a great pity I have to leave this lively and casual city, Cairns. Looking back, the Aboriginal Cultural Park and numerous performances and demonstrations were most interesting, worthwhile, and very complimentary to my travels. Thankfully, much is captured on video and will add much to any presentation I may make in future.

I debated long and hard whether to struggle with my broken handled suitcase, or acquire a replacement. Retail therapy won, and I visited a shop in a mall, attached to Cairns Railway Station, which had been recommended by train crew on the Spirit of Queensland, and a taxi driver, this morning. There were many special offers. The first bag, a posh Samsonite, however, came in at 900 AUD! I chose a Samsonite at almost a quarter the price which was on offer. It’s on four wheels, but has a smaller capacity than the one with the broken handle. I must pay tribute to the nice man at reception who helped me transfer all my belongings, thus saving me further postage to the UK! I have been taking myself on holiday almost all my life, but packing has never been my “strong point!”

Ever since I can remember, I have held a desire to wander, as a stranger to far flung corners of the world, (the western world, mainly!) Right now, the modern parlance “living the dream” seems an appropriate phrase relating to what I am doing right now. I will book a taxi to the Airport and at 15.10hrs, take to the skies for the two and a half hour flight to Darwin. What a pity all I shall achieve there is to see the sky over the place. I believe the clocks go back a further 30 minutes granting me an extra half hour to perhaps look around the town tonight. For, tomorrow, I embark on that bucket list of train trips “The Ghan”. This expedition journey is not only the highlight of this trip, but perhaps of any I have made. Over three nights, the journey itself spans the best part of four days. I have yet to meet anyone who has travelled the full distance.

More later from the Northern Territories.

David.

Still ever so slightly uncomfortable from a recent stomach upset, I was awake at 6.30 this morning. I was due to visit Kuranda by SkyRail and return on the magnificent scenic railway, now run by Queensland Rail. My travel agent had arranged an all-day tour. But, I would discover later that the coach which picked us up at our hotels would meet us, afterwards, at Freshwater Station, thus not completing the journey I wanted to make. I left a message with several people on our tour to instruct the coach driver not to wait for me, which I hope he got; I have not ventured half way around the world to not complete the journey I wished to make.

The coach turned up at around 8.42am; there was just one more pick-up before we were taken to an Aboriginal Cultural Park at Tjapukai. There were several events and demonstrations laid on for our edification. Our guide in traditional dress gave demonstrations of didgeridoo playing. There were twenty five or so, of us being instructed in the art of spear and boomerang throwing. I was made to throw a boomerang; I suspect I could dance a “quick step” better! I have to concede that the dance and fire raising demonstrations were fabulous. These people perform with pride, enthusiasm and authority. Everybody is welcoming and genuinely friendly. However, I would have preferred to spend more time on the Scenic Railway and Sky Rail systems, or taken in a quick Barrier Reef boat trip.

The SkyRail and Kuranda Scenic Railway journeys were beyond fabulous. Below is a selection of photographs taken during the day.

I have, after almost 25 hours on one train, arrived at yet another comfortable hotel, the Rydges Esplanade at Cairns. Here, I have two nights to relax and enjoy one full day before taking a flight to Darwin.

Most of this marathon journey was through lovely weather which deteriorated rapidly about two hours before a slightly late arrival. I may be mistaken, but I don’t recall ever being on the same train for over 24 hours. One is perhaps sceptical when the gauge of the railway is 3 ft 6 inches, rather than the much more familiar standard gauge wider by 14.5 inches. And I remained unconvinced about the Rail Bed idea when I took my seat C11. Such rolling stock is fitted out much like the Business Class area of a plane, i.e. big cavernous seats which morph into a decent flatbed when required. A substantial screen in the back of the seat in front offers a most acceptable choice of movies and TV programmes; I watched two films, The Informant, and a tear jerker, Me before You. Outside of the train, the scenery was far too lovely to miss in preference to watching entertainment. My ticket included a full meal service, again not too far removed from what one might find in Business Class on ‘planes. Once again, hills, some quite spectacular, mountains, fields, forests, even ‘jungle’ provided a never ending and lovely backdrop to this endless train ride. Not for one moment was I bored. I just wish I was some kind of naturalist so that I could have better appreciated what I was looking at. Sadly, the wildlife wasn’t coming out to play. I think I saw a couple of kangaroos and also an emu looking bird which has a different name and is dangerous if approached. We passed mile upon mile of sugar cane fields, connected by a vast network of very narrow gauge railway which crossed the main line on several occasions, at right-angles, and much of which remains in use. I know next to nothing of this fascinating infrastructure; a Leeds built steam locomotive resides in a lovely museum at Proserpine which I visited last year.

This part of Australia has endured a recent cyclone and resultant flooding which affected the punctuality of The Spirit of Queensland throughout the journey; however, arrival at Cairns was no more than eight minutes down.

My hotel room has a balcony overlooking the mountains. It’s not late, but I shall prepare for tomorrow’s full day trip to Kuranda which I learn is also part of Queensland Rail. I need to be ready by 8am. The Hotel will try to ascertain when, exactly the coach will call; this could be as late as 9.15am.

Everything seems to be “on track”. I stack of laundry has been handed in at reception, as instructed tonight.

I now think my stomach upset has subsided, having enjoyed the meals provided on the Spirit of Queensland.

That journey is among one of the very best rail trips I have ever taken, bringing back to mind some historic journeys I took as a twenty year old in 1969 in North America. Amazingly, the Durango to Silverton Line still operates in private hands, 50 years since I made a return trip between both towns.

Here are some pictures taken today, the last two of which illustrate eventual arrival at Cairns. Thanks for reading, David.