David's Cruise

These are the first days on this round the world trip that I have not written a blog as each day progressed. Simply, there was so much going on. Within minutes, the three day marathon train journey, that is the southbound Ghan, arrives at its final destination, Adelaide. I feel as if I have seen a great deal in a

relatively short time, and three days on a train, albeit with lengthy daytime off train excursions does not feel like forever, although I am now rather tired. And, yes, I have seen Ayers Rock (Uluru).

I shall, of course write a retrospective account of these remarkable four days. We shall be enduring temperatures ten degrees cooler than what we enjoyed in the desert, a mere 27 degrees Celsius.

Firstly, I shall be taken to my hotel courtesy of Great Southern Railway where I prepare for the next leg of my World Tour – to Melbourne. Then, to locate a post office from where to send more stuff to the U.K. Then, a wander around Adelaide is the order of the rest of the day.

I am now settled in at my hotel, the Majestic Roof Garden, in another splendid suite, but with no view at all. That does not matter, however. Three days on the Ghan Expedition Train has, despite sleeping well on board, left me a little “heavy-eyed”. A few of us from the Ghan Expedition Train are staying here, and Kate, from Aberdeen has invited me to join her for “happy hour” sustenance at the hotel’s roof garden.

I need only take a small bag with me, tomorrow with enough attire for a couple of days. During the brief flight, I shall aim to catch up with some kind of account of my journey on the world’s longest passenger train. Much as I wouldn’t have missed Ayers Rock for anything, I am not sure I wish to fly in a tiny aeroplane anytime soon. I never felt so vulnerable! But, then again, I did exploit the rare opportunity for photography from the air, and I did see the most extraordinary of sights and colours. To have flown over the salt lakes, like sheets of marble, Uluru, and what I believe are the Olgas, was a rare privilege. Total flying time was almost four hours in two sessions. We were shown Uluru also from ground level, where a packed lunch was provided, and also up against this spiritual mound with its rock paintings carbon dated to between 5 and 7,000 years. Astonishing! What was also astonishing, was that we appeared to be the only people there, just over 20 of us, who had come in four separate aircraft. One of our party was a very spirited 96 year old lady, who was enjoying herself to the full, and had the stamina to take part in everything the Ghan Expedition Train had to offer. Her daughter acted as her very proud carer, and ensured “Mother” had the time of her life.

So, here are few pictures. There is a lot here; there may be some difficulty.

Thanks for reading,

David.

The Ghan Expedition Train is turning out very much as I imagined when I first booked the trip; cruise style “shore excursions” with over enthusiastic tour guides. At 70, I need a break from non-stop amplified information, no matter how interesting it all is. We journeyed by coach and boat through some awesome and dramatic landscape, which, I would not have missed for the world. I am looking forward, with pleasure, to a day at Alice Springs, and, hopefully, the flight to Uluru.

Today, day 1 of 4, our first call was at the Katherine, a town with population of 11,000 named after the daughter of explorer John Stewart. It is thriving, although our tourist guide emphasised that around five years ago, pollution of the water supply was beginning to affect adversely, those living there. The source of this contamination has been identified and suitable “action” is on-going.

We were taken by coach to the Nitmiluk Gorge for a brief but very scenic cruise to its end, where, recently discovered, were rock paintings dating back, I understand, 4,000 years. They were not obvious until pointed out by our “informative” guide, who explained their meanings and relevance. Below, a selection of pictures taken while off the train. With luck, I may later, be able to elaborate further on the rock art illustrated in the pictures which follow.

More news later.

The Dream Continues,

David.

So, this is it. Day 1 of an epic 3 night 4 day expedition train journey from Darwin in the Northern Territory to Adelaide, South Australia. Much to my surprise, transport has been laid on to Darwin Station, saving a substantial taxi fare. This is the first train of the season, so the Ghan representative tells me, and is full….so, no upgrades then! It is with sadness that I leave Darwin after merely a one night stopover. The bus made a couple of further hotel stops; twenty or so minutes later, we were there! 10.00hrs, we are off; the journey begins! And, I discover, reading my on board tour details, Uluru is going to set me back $1,249….and, I have just made my reservation.

My private compartment on the train is tiny, and very difficult to photograph. The bed, when made up, will, like that on the Spirit of Queensland, line up with the window. The passengers, well dressed retirees, and so far, uninspiring. But it’s early days. The train is astonishing, comprising 36 vehicles hauled by the two locomotives pictured. More on this as the journey progresses. The train length, 902 metres, approx, weight, 1768 tonnes, on board crew, 49/50. Originally, the line from Adelaide (1929) terminated at Alice Springs. Construction commenced in 2001, of the extension to Darwin, 1420 kilometres distant. This is more than a train ride, it’s a rare opportunity to see vastly remote and difficult places to get to. It’s Wednesday today; the journey ends on Saturday!

I couldn’t just settle down to a night in my room. The sea and gorgeous humid weather was out there. Rock bands serenade diners at al fresco eateries. I just had to join in!

To begin with, I took a stroll along what I assume is the Esplanade, one of the loveliest seafront I can imagine. Worried about possible insect problems, I didn’t venture too far. I went into a supermarket to purchase some anti histamine just in case. Already I had been wowed by a sunset of pyrotechnic proportions, which I hope my photographs may illustrate. The rock band at the restaurant I chose to have supper at makes for a feel-good ambience like no other. But, tomorrow, I have to crawl out of bed at around 6.30am to make my own way to Darwin Station for that marathon of journeys by train from the top of Australia (where I wish I could hang around for a while) to the bottom of Oz.

Here are tonight’s pictures, my hotel and room, and a Northern Territory sunset.

Long Live the Dream

David.

Above, dinner outside.

More tomorrow.

David.

For a while, I had taken a dislike to flying. That objection ceased after enjoying, unexpectedly, a “necessary” flight in the harsh winter of 2014 to New York to pick up a detailed model of Queen Mary 2 from a friend who had no further use for it. Since then, I have enjoyed the rare views one can experience at such an unnatural height. Today’s brief flight from Cairns to Darwin was no exception. Two and a half hours of either seeing the ground so far below, or mountains of white cloud, or, bit of each. My confidence in this miracle of airborne travel is restored! I was told that it takes three to four days to make this journey by coach. The plane took two and a half hours!

My nice new suitcase is a vast improvement on that cumbersome one whose handle broke. I no longer have to request assistance at hotels, or seek luggage trolleys at airports. If there are future trips like this, where I move from hotel to hotel, I will need to be far more economic on how much I take. I still have masses of unworn clothes, although it has been necessary to use laundry facilities as the opportunity arises.

The hotel at Darwin, Mantra by the Esplanade is another “stunner” at which I have been upgraded to a suite almost the size of my house. Australia does luxury very well indeed.

Before it gets dark, I am going for a wander. The palm tree lined beach is opposite.

The Dream Lives On

David.

Reading some of the blogs I have “published”, it occurs to me that I may have showed signs of malcontent.

“Day 29” is titled “How terribly Strange to be Seventy”. I was not feeling strange at all! This merely is a quote from a Simon and Garfunkel album track, “Bookends” if I am not much mistaken. That line did make an impression when I read/heard it at an impressionable early age.

“David’s Got a Brand New Bag” is an obvious misquote from (I think) a Wilson Pickett track. If I am wrong on this one, I will mention it in a future blog.

Living the Dream!

David.

Once again, I am moving on. What a great pity I have to leave this lively and casual city, Cairns. Looking back, the Aboriginal Cultural Park and numerous performances and demonstrations were most interesting, worthwhile, and very complimentary to my travels. Thankfully, much is captured on video and will add much to any presentation I may make in future.

I debated long and hard whether to struggle with my broken handled suitcase, or acquire a replacement. Retail therapy won, and I visited a shop in a mall, attached to Cairns Railway Station, which had been recommended by train crew on the Spirit of Queensland, and a taxi driver, this morning. There were many special offers. The first bag, a posh Samsonite, however, came in at 900 AUD! I chose a Samsonite at almost a quarter the price which was on offer. It’s on four wheels, but has a smaller capacity than the one with the broken handle. I must pay tribute to the nice man at reception who helped me transfer all my belongings, thus saving me further postage to the UK! I have been taking myself on holiday almost all my life, but packing has never been my “strong point!”

Ever since I can remember, I have held a desire to wander, as a stranger to far flung corners of the world, (the western world, mainly!) Right now, the modern parlance “living the dream” seems an appropriate phrase relating to what I am doing right now. I will book a taxi to the Airport and at 15.10hrs, take to the skies for the two and a half hour flight to Darwin. What a pity all I shall achieve there is to see the sky over the place. I believe the clocks go back a further 30 minutes granting me an extra half hour to perhaps look around the town tonight. For, tomorrow, I embark on that bucket list of train trips “The Ghan”. This expedition journey is not only the highlight of this trip, but perhaps of any I have made. Over three nights, the journey itself spans the best part of four days. I have yet to meet anyone who has travelled the full distance.

More later from the Northern Territories.

David.

Still ever so slightly uncomfortable from a recent stomach upset, I was awake at 6.30 this morning. I was due to visit Kuranda by SkyRail and return on the magnificent scenic railway, now run by Queensland Rail. My travel agent had arranged an all-day tour. But, I would discover later that the coach which picked us up at our hotels would meet us, afterwards, at Freshwater Station, thus not completing the journey I wanted to make. I left a message with several people on our tour to instruct the coach driver not to wait for me, which I hope he got; I have not ventured half way around the world to not complete the journey I wished to make.

The coach turned up at around 8.42am; there was just one more pick-up before we were taken to an Aboriginal Cultural Park at Tjapukai. There were several events and demonstrations laid on for our edification. Our guide in traditional dress gave demonstrations of didgeridoo playing. There were twenty five or so, of us being instructed in the art of spear and boomerang throwing. I was made to throw a boomerang; I suspect I could dance a “quick step” better! I have to concede that the dance and fire raising demonstrations were fabulous. These people perform with pride, enthusiasm and authority. Everybody is welcoming and genuinely friendly. However, I would have preferred to spend more time on the Scenic Railway and Sky Rail systems, or taken in a quick Barrier Reef boat trip.

The SkyRail and Kuranda Scenic Railway journeys were beyond fabulous. Below is a selection of photographs taken during the day.

I have, after almost 25 hours on one train, arrived at yet another comfortable hotel, the Rydges Esplanade at Cairns. Here, I have two nights to relax and enjoy one full day before taking a flight to Darwin.

Most of this marathon journey was through lovely weather which deteriorated rapidly about two hours before a slightly late arrival. I may be mistaken, but I don’t recall ever being on the same train for over 24 hours. One is perhaps sceptical when the gauge of the railway is 3 ft 6 inches, rather than the much more familiar standard gauge wider by 14.5 inches. And I remained unconvinced about the Rail Bed idea when I took my seat C11. Such rolling stock is fitted out much like the Business Class area of a plane, i.e. big cavernous seats which morph into a decent flatbed when required. A substantial screen in the back of the seat in front offers a most acceptable choice of movies and TV programmes; I watched two films, The Informant, and a tear jerker, Me before You. Outside of the train, the scenery was far too lovely to miss in preference to watching entertainment. My ticket included a full meal service, again not too far removed from what one might find in Business Class on ‘planes. Once again, hills, some quite spectacular, mountains, fields, forests, even ‘jungle’ provided a never ending and lovely backdrop to this endless train ride. Not for one moment was I bored. I just wish I was some kind of naturalist so that I could have better appreciated what I was looking at. Sadly, the wildlife wasn’t coming out to play. I think I saw a couple of kangaroos and also an emu looking bird which has a different name and is dangerous if approached. We passed mile upon mile of sugar cane fields, connected by a vast network of very narrow gauge railway which crossed the main line on several occasions, at right-angles, and much of which remains in use. I know next to nothing of this fascinating infrastructure; a Leeds built steam locomotive resides in a lovely museum at Proserpine which I visited last year.

This part of Australia has endured a recent cyclone and resultant flooding which affected the punctuality of The Spirit of Queensland throughout the journey; however, arrival at Cairns was no more than eight minutes down.

My hotel room has a balcony overlooking the mountains. It’s not late, but I shall prepare for tomorrow’s full day trip to Kuranda which I learn is also part of Queensland Rail. I need to be ready by 8am. The Hotel will try to ascertain when, exactly the coach will call; this could be as late as 9.15am.

Everything seems to be “on track”. I stack of laundry has been handed in at reception, as instructed tonight.

I now think my stomach upset has subsided, having enjoyed the meals provided on the Spirit of Queensland.

That journey is among one of the very best rail trips I have ever taken, bringing back to mind some historic journeys I took as a twenty year old in 1969 in North America. Amazingly, the Durango to Silverton Line still operates in private hands, 50 years since I made a return trip between both towns.

Here are some pictures taken today, the last two of which illustrate eventual arrival at Cairns. Thanks for reading, David.

That’s a relief! The Post Office has taken 3.5 kilograms of paperwork, and it should be waiting for me when I arrive home in April. I am hoping I have redistributed enough weight to other luggage not to cause problems getting on the Spirit of Queensland, an epic 24+hour train journey to Cairns. The cost of lightening my load, a mere 87A$.

Yesterday was not quite a write off. I did manage to enjoy the train ride to Casino; the ensuing coach ride to Brisbane was an hour longer than I expected owing to Queensland not sharing New South Wales’ time zone. During my hours of feeling delicate, I resolved that my large suitcase was ridiculously overweight and figured the stuff I no longer needed should be posted home.

By the time the coach pulled into Brisbane Roma Street Station, I was exhausted, not so much from the travel, but the effects of merely sipping water all day! My troubles weren’t to end there. A taxi duly appeared, I got in, and said to the driver, “Hotel Next”. He looked bewildered, but, when I gave him the details, off we set. The hotel turned out to be derelict. But it would soon transpire that it had moved to a superb location.

My birthday did end with an unexpected ‘grand finale’. “Happy 70th birthday” greeted the man at the reception of “Next Brisbane”. I stood back in surprise, and then delight that I had been upgraded to a magnificent apartment on the 26th(top) floor. My travel agent has, so far, done me proud, making sure, again so far, all the accommodation booked on represents the height of luxury. (I did wonder why this trip seemed expensive when I booked it).

There is not quite enough time to take a river cruise, which would have been nice. But, in under three hours, I shall be on the next leg of my journey, to Cairns where the train arrives at 4pm tomorrow. Most tell me it’s a lovely journey, others grimace with the comments…”it’s much better to fly”. The first three pictures, below, were the view from my hotel. The rest are from walking around.

The remaining images are photographs taken while wandering around Brisbane’s bustling city shopping area, Anzac Square, St. Stephens Cathedral and QUEEN Street, the centre of Brisbane and right by the Next Hotel. Brisbane Central Station, I had a look around last year; this is opposite where Cunard’s shuttle buses drop off its cruise passengers sightseeing independently. Like my last visit to Brisbane in 2018, I found a decent camera shop. Taking photos in the rain is not conducive to camera longevity; I went in for a spare battery, and came out with not only that, but suitable lens cleaning equipment. I do like this versatile and highly technical piece of kit, but its small size means its limitations can be frustrating. This phone produces better results, but again with a limited range.

Brisbane Roma Street is an uninspiring utilitarian sort of a place. Building works outside make access difficult, and now, the handle on my big suitcase has snapped. Further transfer of stuff from it to another bag reduced its weight, originally above 28kgs to 19+kgs. I shall not see it until I arrive at Cairns. Queensland Rail have a fascinating service of long distance trains, penetrating some remote parts of N.E. Australia.

Check in formalities complete, the Spirit of Queensland waits at the far end of platform 10, beyond a metal fence past which is beyond where the public is allowed. I obtain a good enough picture, as a platform guy looks on with curiosity!

It’s now 09.35 hrs, Day 31.

I had great misgivings about this part of the itinerary, the 24 hour train journey from Brisbane to Cairns in an unfamiliar type of sleeping car with “Rail Beds”. I needn’t have worried. The huge airline style Business Class seat does, indeed, transform into bed with plenty of room, even for my 6 ft frame. Sheets, a duvet, and pillows create a restful environment only the motion of the train can disturb. I slept far better than I expected to, and today, I am enjoying the railtour of a lifetime. I am in no hurry to reach Cairns. Queensland Rail comes accross as highly efficient and professional, the on board staff helpful obliging (when possible) and friendly. Again, for hour upon hour, we rattle through the typical remote countryside, which, not so long ago, was deluged with severe damaging and disruptive flooding. I have only seen this part of the world in glorious sunshine! I keep saying “remote” in my descriptions. However, in this remoteness, farming is on a huge scale, and we passed the sugar beet plantations, some of which I saw last year when my cruise ship called at Airlie Beach.

Views from the train, around 09.45 hrs, Day 31, March 3rd 2019.

Opposite me, I have American neighbours, Bruce and Sharon from Florida, travelling with their son, Zac, daughter and son-in-law, whose names now elude me. Bruce apologised for his President right at the beginning of the journey, yesterday; we have “hit it off” ever since!

I don’t think the internet is brilliant here, therefore I end this blog, and start again. (10.09hrs).

David.