David's Cruise

It took me rather a long time get my act together, after the most efficient transfer from stateroom 8146, to my rather swish accommodation on the 4th floor of Fairmont’s Hotel Vancouver.  I was told by the receptionist that if I didn’t like the room, they would charge it.  But, what was there not to like?   The bedroom is large with two King sized beds (I think), dressing table, TV, desk and super en suite facilities, etc.

I purchased a hop on – hop off bus ticket which remains valid until tomorrow morning. However, I also booked a round trip to Whistler, once served by the Rocky Mountaineer. It’s two hours each way on the bus, and I get four hours to look around. 

On my way back to Canada Place, I dropped in on  Christ Church Cathedral where I had been made very welcome in 2019.  I remember it as a mix of High Church/traditional and modern inclusive evangelical. Perhaps its clergy may beg to differ!  Had I not booked my trip to Whistler tomorrow, I could have attended a Eucharist at 12.10.

Soon, I was back at Canada Place from where I would eventually take the hop on – hop off bus, going around the 1.5 hour circuit in one journey.   Travel fatigue had set in, but nevertheless, I did enjoy the trip which in many ways acted as a reminder of my trip here three years ago.  It was weird seeing the Queen Elizabeth berthed so close by.  I am, of course, no longer Cunard’s “concern” and the privileges I enjoyed for 43 days are no longer.  They will be reinstated in January next year when I join QM2 for a winter break. 

Outside, it was cold with fairly strong westerly winds, exactly as it was yesterday in Victoria.  At the end of the bus tour, I walked back to Gas Town, now a very trendy part of Vancouver. The steam clock is still in situ, chiming through steam whistles every quarter of an hour.  I found a spaghetti restaurant with a genuine short wheelbase street car, re-purposed as an eatery, still on its wheels, and seemingly with the brass driving controls still in tact. 

Gently, I made my way back to my hotel, via Canada Place to confirm that Queen Elizabeth was now on its way back to Alaska. My original plans took in two Alaska voyages, albeit the first one starting from Seward (Anchorage) having sailed from Japan, all this cancelled repeatedly because of the pandemic.

I rested in my room for a couple of hours but now I am relaxing in the hotel bar, transformed in what appears to be a recent refurbishment to something very tasteful and contemporary. I just needed a decaff latte as a soothing night cap. There is no reason I shouldn’t catch up on some sleep tonight. In the meantime, I leave a few pictures I took today, at the start of my North America rail and bus trip.

Many thanks for reading, David, 22.33 hrs Hotel Vancouver Bar area.

Nobody likes the last 24 hours of a voyage, especially this one of 43 nights from 2nd May. The flight home is long, drawn out and exhausting. My journey home on the other hand is going to take another (just over) four weeks, but, there will still be that unavoidable final day and half when, all going to plan, I disembark QM2 at Southampton in mid July.

Yesterday, I thoroughly enjoyed that extravagant afternoon tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel. It was eye-wateringly expensive. Even now, I forget that tax is extra on top of the published price! But I wouldn’t have missed, for the world, the pleasure of dining off the specially designed crockery, which of course is available in the souvenir shop! Would I do it again? Of course!!

There was a relentless cold wind which deterred me from further exploration yesterday. I returned to the ship one last time, finished the packing, labelled the suitcases, and, as instructed, put them out for collection. I joined Lesley for dinner in the Britannia Restaurant and in a farewell glass of Sauvignon Blanc. I’ll never know whether she finished her book, I think entitled Viking Queen. As ever, I went to the show in the Royal Court Theatre, and then popped into the Golden Lion to see Cameron and Shane sing and play one last time. There was a good atmosphere with people who had all enjoyed the last 43 nights

This morning, I packed the rest of my overnight belongings and made my stateroom available for preparation for the next lucky traveller. I slipped a further tip to my excellent cabin steward. His service was exemplary and unobtrusive. I didn’t opt for a cooked breakfast on my last day, just the usual porridge, banana, grapefruit, and the now customary two pancakes, with no topping. I bade farewell to one or two I had met during the voyage, but now, already I’m looking back on it all as if I had merely dreamed it. The souvenirs and hole in the ozone layer of my finances tell me otherwise! My big blue suitcase was taken from me as arranged, but I still have far too much to drag around.

Now, it’s time to look around Vancouver. It’s still too cold for a whale watching tour!

Many thanks for reading. I hope you all enjoyed the story so far. David, Hotel Vancouver, B.C. Canada 🇨🇦 🍁 🇨🇦 🍁 🇨🇦 🍁 🇨🇦.

Tonight is my last on board Queen Elizabeth, home for 43 nights.

I thought it would never end; I didn’t want it to end, but this time tomorrow, I could be taking afternoon tea in the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, my home for the next two nights.  Right now, I am almost outside Fairmont’s Empress Hotel in Victoria on Vancouver Island, hoping for an afternoon tea cancellation at 4 pm.  The Pacific Northwest is not particularly warm as I wait at the nearby waterfront and quayside.  If it was less windy, I would have jumped at the chance of one of the numerous whale watching or other trips on offer.

Needless to say, when I walked into the Empress on speck, my lack of previous reservation did not stand me in good stead.  I am on (at my suggestion) the waiting list for the next session of an $89 afternoon tea, which I think is a bargain! I have a nasty suspicion that I will have just 60 minutes in which to consume what they have to offer.  At least, I have set foot in this still prestigious place where perhaps I might actually stay should the unwelcoming climes of this part of the world call me back.

Ye Gods!  The packing is all but complete and there’s adequate room for the remaining few items still at the ship’s laundry.  I have the documentation in place for the big blue suitcase to be transferred to Queen Mary 2 in New York.  I didn’t need to find a post office to mail excess baggage home; I just hope that I and said suitcase are reunited on 8th July!

And, of course, a place for me was found for the 4 pm sitting of Afternoon Tea at the Empress.  This was superb, with the chef, at very little notice, organising a special diet tea with low/no sugar pastries and diabetic jam for the scone.  That’s another box ticked!   I wasn’t restricted to one hour,nor just one decent sized pot of tea. But now, the magnificent tea room is almost empty.

I shall wander around a little. The last shuttle bus is at 8 pm.

All the best from British Columbia. David 17.34 hrs., The Empress.

Southampton on 2nd May all seems a very long time ago as we head towards our final port of call, Victoria, the capital of British Columbia.  I have been here before, and I merely plan to see if I can enjoy afternoon tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel, the fourth I will have set foot in, of the great former Canadian Pacific Hotels.  I may need to find a post office to mail home excess baggage no longer required. 

Last night after dinner, I did my usual thing and went to the nightly show in the Royal Court Theatre.  Three very talented mail singers The Three Tones backed by the always superb Royal Court Theatre Orchestra gave an excellent performance of mainly familiar songs from many genres of music, including opera, as well as rock ‘n roll etc.  This time, I didn’t lurk at the back to ensure a discreet escape route; I took my seat midway on the lower level, and was surprised how many were there, thoroughly enjoying the show.  Nevertheless, a much bigger audience would have turned this into a party night. 

Today, I awoke around 7.30 which yesterday would have been 6.30.  Had the loss of an hour affected my day? It certainly felt like it.  I enjoyed my Lido breakfast complete with freshly made pancakes and honey.  This is a luxury I will forego when my new journey begins on Thursday with a bus ride from Vancouver to Seattle.  It is hard to believe the eternity on Queen Elizabeth is not so eternal! 

Walking felt difficult this morning, but after a very relaxing decaff latte in the Café Carinthia, I did get into my stride, and finished the day with over 15,000 steps.  Less than 10,000 will see me hit 1.2 million by the time I disembark on Tuesday.  

Being a sea day, I had hoped to make a start with the packing.  The fly in the ointment was having to don the formal gear for one last Gala Night, where tuxedo etc is the appropriate dress code.  However, I did make a useful start, fully expecting to have to post stuff back home to make room. For the penultimate time, I joined Lesley for dinner, before adjourning to the Royal Court Theatre for Cunard’s “in-house” Hollywood Nights. I don’t quite know where the singers and dancers get their energy. And the lighting engineer is good, too. I was glad to see the audience show enthusiastic appreciation with a substantial and well deserved standing ovation at the end.

Unbelievably, I felt a tad hungry towards midnight. So, I had a snack before getting my head down, and sleeping quite well.

Many thanks for reading. David, 17.00 hrs in some posh hotel on Vancouver Island (see next blog)

I gave considerable thought to one of Cunard’s shore experiences at around 6am this morning, a 4 hour river trip to one of Alaska’s most dramatic and wonderful areas. Amazingly, I was awake early enough for the 8.15 start.  I peeked through the curtains of my stateroom, only to find the familiar town of Ketchikan with its mountainous backdrop obscured by low mist and cloud.  No surprise then; Ketchikan has the reputation for being the wettest part of an already wet Alaska. But, for my second visit here, we have been pretty fortunate with the weather, and even in Alaska’s wettest town, the sun has popped out occasionally.  I decided the wilderness river trip would have been a bit of a rush and decided to leave it possibly for some time in the future.

Ketchikan, population around 10,000, seems to have made a full recovery from the two years of covid chaos.  Four cruise ships visited today, Queen Elizabeth, Silver Muse, Disney Wonder and Norwegian Jewel. 

According to the poster (above), at one point, 4,859 passengers flooded into the town.  It looks as if there might, at last be some kind of post covid-19 recovery.  The shops were all open, stocked floor to ceiling with  every kind of souvenir.  But actually,  I would imagine that the place needs a daily armada of passenger ships to aid their economic recovery. 

I have taken to exploring independently these days, rather than being shepherded on an organised tour.  I probably don’t see as much, but I do get a more authentic feel of where I am visiting.  And today was a “fun” day, exploring Ketchikan’s once dodgy Creek Street, and the haphazard suburbia beyond.  I suppose one should experience The Great Alaskan Lumber Jack Show when in Ketchikan.  It was hugely impressive and amusing at the same time. I also just had to visit Dolly’s House…on Creek Street.  Google it for more details.  I didn’t stay long! 

As with many of my blogs, I am completing this the day after, while at sea for the last time on this 43 night voyage.   The nightmare of packing is in progress as I await the last items from the laundry. The sea is just nice with little movement caused to the ship.  But I am tired, and as I try to get another 26,000 steps in by the time I disembark, old ladies with zimmer frames are overtaking me on the fast lane of the Promenade Deck!  I couldn’t have slept well last night, and the hour was advanced to 8 hours behind the UK’s British Summer Time. I have treated myself to a decaff latte in the extremely comfortable Carinthia Lounge midships, starboard on 2 deck through whose large windows, one can look out onto whatever is outside. 

Once again, I had around an hour to return to the ship.  I took it easy, stopping to photograph images of what could well be my last visit here.  While in Sitka, I contemplated coming again this time using the available public transport and staying two or three nights in the places visited for just a few hours during this cruise.  However, it was hinted to me that the cost of ferries and other transportation as well as accommodation, is prohibitive.  $45 from Haines to Skagway doesn’t sound too bad ‘though.  It’s an interesting prospect. 

It had been cool and occasionally wet during the day, but very conducive to wandering around. But, back on the ship, the drizzle kept all but one (and me) from the open area, aft on Deck 9.  The forested hills and snowcapped mountains were once again partially obscured by low cloud and mist. This in itself was rather lovely. It won’t be long now before I am back in the heat of a U.S. summer, and writing about my experiences of bulk long distance American rail travel, when sometimes, the train is a bus! 

We set sail very shortly after the 4.30 deadline for being back on board.  I committed my last visions of Alaska to film and video on this device, and the “new” Lumix which Stefan very kindly made available to me a few days ago.   The opportunity to record passing the Disney Wonder, again from my cabin was rare indeed.

So, that was Ketchikan, usually the first call on an Alaska cruise.  Going there won’t change your life, but I feel some kind of achievement having been there twice. 

Many thanks for reading, David, Café Carinthia, 13.55 hrs 12/6/22. 

As I wrote earlier this morning, the cloud, drizzle and cold was not conducive to venturing out, and I doubt I would have regretted giving Sitka a miss.  Then I remembered how much I spent on this whole journey, and took the shuttle bus for the 10 minute (again gorgeous) ride to Downtown Sitka. I just don’t remember any of it from the previous trip.  Of course, I couldn’t do everything in the 4 hours I allowed myself.  I walked over a 1972 bridge (see the numerous pictures), came close to what I think were eagles and just enjoyed wandering around miles away from home, and not a cruise ship guest doing the same thing.  I shall write more, but will just get this blog published, and give myself an hour before the last shuttle bus.  And the weather got good again!

Excellent value for excellent WiFi!

The last bus is in an hour; More later!

Juneau a better idea…

Our port of call today was the unlikely capital of Alaska, Juneau.  I have been here before but back in 2019, I don’t remember much about the city.  As in 2019, I visited Mendenhall Glacier with the intention, this time, of walking the one mile to Nugget Falls.  If it wasn’t for the impossibly harsh winters, I would seriously consider living here, except that those with the means have already done so and property is now as overpriced as almost anywhere.  Juneau is a city in a gorgeous stunning setting of high hills and mountains, snowcapped most of the year. Cruise tourists are well catered for with souvenir shops and other attractive retail outlets, eateries, bars, and a very wide range of excursion options including flightseeing and helicopter trips. It would be easy to fill in a week here, let alone just a day.

Again, I was late getting up this morning and actually let breakfast time slip by. The supervisor in the Lido surprisingly made sure I had enough to eat; he didn’t have to. I was extremely grateful. I then disembarked and located the shore excursion to Mendenhall Glacier which I wanted to revisit. We were given 2.5 hours to explore as we wished.

The path to Nugget Falls was well paved and relatively flat. I don’t quite know why, but the two mile round trip reminded me of the Tissington and High Peak Trails. An easy stroll along these nicely prepared and paved pathways through dramatic landscapes and alongside the wide waters of a lake whose name escapes me right now. Hopefully, my creased up leaflet of the area can help me identify the huge mountains which frame the receding Mendenhall Glacier.

Two and a half hours was probably adequate for what I wanted to do. I was able to walk back to the Information Centre via a less popular route along the lakeside, and admire the impressive icebergs which had come adrift previously.

There was time for lunch, an excuse to go somewhere with decent WiFi. For a second time, there was no WiFi where I chose to eat, and the WiFi on board Queen Elizabeth in these waters is not at all good. I could post unillustrated blogs but that would be a pity. After a caesar salad the size of Alaska, I looked for good places from which to photograph the remaining cruise ships. There were five in today; the maximum is seven. Celebrity Eclipse which had sneaked into pole position at Hubbard Glacier depriving QE passengers of a decent close up view, was berthed proudly at the Quay nearest the city centre! We were last! (Behind Holland and Barrett’s Nordam). Let me explain to my non-UK readers, Holland and Barrett is a UK wide chain of health shops which retail homeopathic medications etc. A couple whose Alaska voyage was cancelled by Cunard, seemed to assume Holland and Barrett also ran cruise ships, rather than Holland America Line! This story may well be apocryphal but I now refer to H.A.L as H & B!

I walked around the city seeking photographic opportunities and enjoyed the lengthy boardwalks particularly along the quayside.

Walking and driving around Juneau, you would not believe this State Capital is only accessible by plane, car ferry or cruise ship. As I say, there are plenty of opportunities here, but these come generally at a hefty price. Get to know the geography of the place, and there numerous hikes at varying levels of ability. I am told the cable car trip is $45.00 for approximately 5 minutes each way. I don’t remember spending anything like that amount in 2019, but the views are worth the outlay, particularly if you have the time to explore extensively at the summit (of Mt. Roberts)

I joined Lesley and Linda briefly on open Deck 9 aft as we sailed away bound for Sitka.

After dinner, I adjourned, as seems now to be my routine, to the Royal Court Theatre. The comedian was far from the rave reviews in the Daily Programme and I came away lamenting the 45 minutes I will never get back!

Even at 11pm it was not completely dark and I took in one last breath of fresh air on the Promenade Deck before going to bed at midnight.

The following morning revealed drizzle low cloud and mist obscuring partially the otherwise lovely port of Sitka. Completing this blog in the comfort of an empty Lido, looking out onto the uninviting greyness that is often the case in Alaska, I ponder, “Should I Sitka this one out….”

Thanks for reading, David, 11.06 hrs BST -9, The Lido midships, port-side, with oil tanker alongside while the Queen Elizabeth is bunkered. And it’s still raining!

“

Hubbard Glacier should have been a highlight of Cunard’s first Alaska sailing since 2019. (Correct me if I am mistaken!). The Almighty provided another perfect day, and not long after breakfast, the unmistakable thin turquoise line, that is Alaska’s only expanding glacier, named after the first President of the National Geographical Society, Gardiner Hubbard, came into view. Excitement mounted around the ship in the belief that we would follow the “CelebrityECLIPSE” cruise ship as she sailed close to the glacier face.

.  I had seen Hubbard Glacier from Queen Elizabeth on its final Alaska cruise in 2019.  We got up close, and one could appreciate its vastness as melting ice  crashed like thunder to the waters below.  One could get even closer on a small boat onto which passengers were transferred.   For some reason, I missed out on that opportunity and vowed to return to experience once again this awesome place..

Yesterday, the sky was clear and the sun reflected brightly from the snowcapped jagged mountains in the distance.  And, the magnificent light turquoise of Hubbard Glacier came tantalisingly into sight.  Ahead was a cruise ship I am told was Celebrity Eclipse,  merely a speck almost up against the Glacier.  It had hogged the pole position, but I saw no other vessel which would take passengers even closer, as in 2019. (I was later told that infact, passengers were lowered in the ship’s tenders for a closer look. Annoyingly, for whatever reason, we didn’t follow Celebrity Eclipse to its much nearer advantageous position closer to the Glacier. And we came away much earlier than suggested in the Daily Programme.  To this day, that remains a bitter disappointment.

Being philosophical, was not getting close to Hubbard Glacier the “end of the world?”  Of course not!  For the best part of two days, we had sailed gently through probably the most  magnificent of scenic waterways, which like wonderful music, one never tires of.  Those jagged peaks to which I referred earlier were all visible thanks to a rare day of little or no cloud cover.  And to be able to gaze for hours on end at such fabulous unspoilt landscapes so far from home, is an enormous privilege I couldn’t really have contemplated not so many years ago.

Much of that afternoon was spent wrestling with the online procedures required to re-enter Canada at Victoria on Vancouver Island. I was far from the only one trying to get my head around these unfamiliar procedures.  Very well done to the personnel in the Library who helped us all out!

After dinner, and putting the world to rights with the one remaining table companion, Lesley, I adjourned to the show in the Royal Court Theatre. It was a standard song and dance routine entitled Palladium Nights.  The audience was thin but appreciative.   It was very good, extremely well choreographed, with superb sound and lighting effects.  I had walked past a completely empty Queens Room where nine musicians including female singer played as if to packed dance floor.  Right at the end, I came across Shane and Cameron who actually had a “reasonable” gathering in the Garden Lounge.  Immediately, they acknowledged my presence by name and launched into their version of a favourite Irish folk song of mine, Star of the County Down, the melody of which is also a tune to hymn I heard the Voice of Jesus Say.

I returned to my room and before getting some sleep, commenced on this blog, which I more or less re-wrote this morning.  The WiFi is lousy, but this could be because there is now a lot of e-junk in my phone slowing things down.  Hopefully, here in Juneau, where the weather has reverted to “Buxton grey” I will come across somewhere with good WiFi, as well as explore Alaska’s capital….once again.

Many thanks for reading, David, 09.08 in my stateroom.

Slightly amended in Sitka at the Mean Queen Bar and eatery in Sitka, where the free WiFi is excellent and no password required. 14.26, Friday 10th June.

Departure from Haines shortly after 5.40 p.m. and the subsequent sailing away towards Hubbard Glacier had to be one of those “stand-out” experiences which I shall remember for a long time.  Captain Thorhauge, addressing her passengers over the ship’s speaker system described the first part of this journey as scenic.  That was an understatement!   During the morning, low cloud, and rain gradually gave way to pristine skies and considerable warmth, and thus, the majesty of the one-time obscured snow clad mountain peaks were revealed in all their great magnificence. 

Here therefore is a series of pictures taken between departure and sunset.

Many thanks for looking! David.

I was advised not to take the ferry to Skagway for fear of all return sailings being fully booked. I did feel there should be plenty of time; However, I felt that when in Edinburgh back in 2013, never believing at two minutes past seven, I had just missed the last train south. Getting stuck Scotland’s capital is manageable; I’m not sure about Skagway! 

Yesterday’s excursion to Glacier Bay was nothing short of awesome, with a continuous vista, surrounding the ship, of snowcapped steep hills and cliffs plunging into the waters of Glacier Bay. Today, Queen Elizabeth called at the small town of Haines for the first time. There was a ceremony at the pier end, attended  by the Mayor and local folkloric dancers. 

Usually, when a ship calls at a port for the first time, gifts are exchanged between the local dignitaries and the ship’s senior officers.

Harry, the port lecturer, explained that the population of Haines is 2,000, probably the same number of passengers and crew on Queen Elizabeth.  But, the town has quite a lot to offer the visitor despite its small but fairly spread out population. I walked around and outside the town for a while before settling at The Lighthouse Restaurant for a chicken caesar salad and two cups of pretty decent coffee.  I doubt that I will do this little town justice.  Unlike most towns and cities in Alaska,  Haines is connected to the main highway system, a decision made during WW2 as a precaution in the event of a Japanese invasion.  I assume this never happened.

Looking out from my balcony, Haines seemed like any remote settlement in Alaska. The distant road had traffic, buses were in evidence either for shore excursions or local public transport. I did wonder why a town of 2,000 didn’t come out in force to welcome probably the first Cunard ship ever to berth there. The civic reception was splendid, and the local authorities there, genuinely welcoming. I would learn, later, from somebody I bought a few souvenirs from that two or three cruise ships call there each week. Thus, the first arrival of Queen Elizabeth was no big deal!

See the difference some decent weather makes.

Haines did look somewhat uninviting this morning as like yesterday, low cloud and mist obscured much of what was there to see. Nevertheless, I had a baseball cap and waterproof lightweight coat (bought in Alaska three years ago) which would keep the bulk of any rainfall at bay. Strangely, when I awoke this morning, I didn’t feel inclined to leave the ship, and started watching a silly movie with car chases! “Ye Gods…you’re in Alaska” I reminded myself. I hadn’t booked a tour, but a walking guide of Haines gave me plenty of inspiration to just roam around the place. Suddenly, it wasn’t cold, and blue sky was aplenty.

The guide leaflet was a great help and was able not only to enjoy being here, but realise how privileged I was/am to be able to wander around such far off and remote places. I think the town will enjoy a bright future now there seems to be a regular flow of tourists.

Tomorrow, we cruise by Hubbard Glacier from around 10 am. I have looked to see if a small boat will be coming alongside as in 2019. So far, I have seen nothing, and realise that three years ago, I missed a great opportunity.

I enjoyed Haines, and wouldn’t object to coming back again, this time, exploring much further afield. On a clear day, the scenery is beyond magnificent!

Many thanks for reading, David, 17.59 in my room, having just departed for Hubbard Glacier.