Life on board.

Frequently, I read my blogs to remind me of the numerous places visited, and some events of this voyage. It would seem that I have written very little about travelling in a vast ocean liner. In fact, I do find this difficult to portray.

From the moment of paying the deposit, thus securing my stateroom reservation, each following day was one of gradual excitement about a major unprecedented journey, the like of which I found hard to imagine. I did experience doubts and misgivings, but these were more than equally matched by excitement and anticipation as the day of departure approached. That day arrived; I would be away from home 120 days, 91 days longer than the previous longest time away from home in 2000. Was that QE2 voyage to Cape Town really 17 and a bit years ago? I remember feeling that, that 29 night voyage was more than adequate in duration and I was ready to come home. Between then and now, QE2 has been withdrawn and it still languishes in Dubai. In December 2003, I visited the ship yard in St. Nazaire to see, from a car park and outside the shipyard, QM2 almost ready for delivery to Cunard a mere 2-3 weeks later. I would be on its maiden voyage.

Today’s cruise of 120 nights is my 16th voyage on R.M.S. Queen Mary 2. To most, this might seem extravagant and excessive; in fact, it does to me also. But on board, at a Captain’s reception, one learns that the most frequent travellers on the top sailors list have accrued towards around 2000 nights on board Cunard ships. The green eyed monster in me may dismiss these achievements as frivolous. However, far better to spend one’s autumnal years on a nice ship than in a land-based institution. Perhaps I may, too, confess to my Maker, 3,000 days on Cunard ships, decades from now!

Once again, towering above the terminal buildings of Southampton harbour, that unmistakable shape of the biggest ocean liner of all time, Queen Mary 2. Familiar, with its red and black funnel atop a white superstructure, it may be, but that excitement and anticipation never fades. Especially now. It is my home until May. Its already familiar surroundings will accompany me to the other side of the World. Childhood curiosities will, at last, be satisfied. The run to Cape Town will be a pleasurable re-run of my QE2 voyage, except, we call at Walvis Bay instead of St. Helena. For many, Cape Town is the end of their 17 night cruise. A similar number will start their journey of a lifetime. The weather gradually has warmed as we crossed the Equator, and cooled slightly as we steamed south.

On board, if there is little or no movement, the ship seems more like an hotel than something transporting one to far away places. Sleeping accommodation ranges from inside windowless cabins, just about adequate for two passengers (“guests”) to staterooms with windows, many with balconies and even some on two levels with large areas of private deck space. Pay more for your accommodation and one dines in the more up-scale Grills restaurants. Single outside cabins are a welcome addition on decks 2 and 3, affording spectacular views of the ocean.

Cruising is synonymous with food. The choice is endless and of excellent all round quality, whatever the level of accommodation booked. Strangely, those in the cheap seats get to dine in what on earlier liners, would have been the first class restaurant. The Britannia Restaurant is loosely based on that of a French liner of the 1920s with rectangular dome ceiling lighting. This cavernous restaurant is three decks in height. Alternatively, one can dine in the Kings Court, a self service modern style eatery along much of both sides of deck 7. For some reason, it is often chaotic and complicated to navigate. Nevertheless, the food on offer is varied, plentiful imaginative and most importantly, hot. That was not always the case in the past. When it is not blowing a gail on the open deck 12, the Boardwalk Cafe offers salad, burgers, fries, and a limited selection of desserts, drinks and beverages. Venture down to the Golden Lion on deck 2, pub grub and afternoon tea is on offer for much of the afternoon. Excellent it is too. There are numerous other bars and areas in which to eat and relax. My favourite is the Carinthia Lounge, adjacent to the Kings Court on deck 7. Lavishly furnished in shades of brown, beige and bits of blue, this is a most comfortable venue for coffee and light snacks. This area was once the Winter Garden, my least favourite part of the ship.

Queen Mary 2 houses a comprehensive gym and a spa club for all the pampering one could ever want. Walk three times around the promenade deck and one has covered 1.1 miles. There are enough flights of stairs both inside and outside to contribute to a decent work-out. More often than not, I manage my modest target of 7,500 steps with little difficulty. In the afternoon and evening, a major film is screened in the cinema (“Illuminations”), another cavernous venue on board QM2. This is so much like a large town movie palace. Immediately behind Illuminations, is the Royal Court Theatre. Lectures and concerts take place most days, lectures take place in Illuminations as well.

QM2 offers the largest ballroom at sea, another cavernous space, very Art Deco in style and to my mind, extremely elegant. Behind that, right at the back, the G32 nightclub where the resident pop group and disco cater for the many who enjoy revelling into the early hours. G32 was the “yard number” allocated to QM2 during construction at St Nazaire.

I still feel my description of life on board only partly describes travelling by ship. Perhaps the images I eventually post will go some way to completing this picture.

What is interesting, the great variety of passengers, who, irritatingly, Cunard insists on referring to as guests….and UK railways as “customers…!” I imagined a ship full of wealthy retirees. I knew that few would be taking the whole world cruise. As QM2 progressed on its journey, passengers would disembark at major ports, being replaced by a similar number starting their vacation. Temporary friendships would be established.

The world cruise incorporated a number of voyages within, for example, Melbourne to Melbourne (calling at Kangaroo Island), Sydney to Sydney (circumnavigating New Zealand), Singapore to Singapore as well as other options involving flying. One couple I got to know, opted to travel by rail and sea to Australia before joining QM2. This took several weeks! In the Antipodes, the vast majority of the guests were Australian, many young with small children. Most would travel to Singapore or Hong Kong. Thus, the ambience was far from boring. A few would be negative about the ship and more than happy to voice their “qualified” opinion. This is always irritating given the vast organisation that goes into such a major, complicated and lengthy event.

A middle-of-the-night stroll around the promenade deck reveals teams of personnel, presumably on night shifts preparing the ship for the day ahead, restaurants being laid up, carpets vacuumed and even windows cleaned and handrails polished. All has to be immaculate by the early hours, and it is. During the day, some part of the outside is receives attention, whether it be varnishing the handrails, painting the superstructure, or maintenance of the deck. Bits are cordoned off daily. And there is always a toilet out of action, usually the one you choose to race to in times of desperation!

There are, of course, shops on board, a library and numerous swimming pools. What more can I say.

I hope this account gives at least, a slightly better account of life on board. More news in a couple of days.

David.

Yesterday in Ho Chi Minh City.

This voyage never ceases to amaze. Having spent time recently in Singapore and Bangkok, after a further welcome day at sea, we docked at around 7am yesterday at Phu My in South Vietnam. Along with seemingly a few hundred others, I had opted for the “Highlights of Ho Chi Minh” excursion. The formula was similar to trips to cities and other places a long way from the port. Usually, this involves a couple of hours’ drive along a recently built highway to our destination, guided tours of various sights, and perhaps a sumptuous buffet at a 5 star hotel.

Ho Chi Minh City can accommodate cruise ships, but not one the size and dimensions of Queen Mary 2.

We were welcomed aboard coach 15, thankfully air conditioned, and with the now familiar fancy curtains and pelmets of tourist buses in this part of Asia.

Taking part in this “day out in Vietnam”, involved an early start; up at 6am! However, I felt the journey would be worth the effort; and it was. Along the way, we saw glimpses of “ordinary life on both sides of the highway, little shops and businesses in cluttered shacks, the occasional house, place of worship, many open fields and some jungle area, nearer to the city. If I was not so far from home, I might have found this journey a little on the dull side. But, I was seeing a glimpse of a country I had only heard of so much, but would never have dreamed of actually travelling to. Thus, apart from the effects of morning fatigue and the ever present humidity, every moment was fascinating.

Each tour seems to begin or end with a visit to a store, an arrangement between the proprietors and the coach company with the aim of generating business from those on the trip. Today, we called at an establishment manufacturing & marketing lacquer products. We saw workers at their benches making what would become lovely items, such as jewellery boxes, pictures, and other fine pieces. This time, I was intrigued and impressed. So was everybody else; business was brisk!

We continued to the Natural History Museum. We were guided through exhibitions of ancient ceramics and many displays relating to the history of South Vietnam. As with all such visits, the limited time and the sheer number of people doing the same thing makes it hard to really appreciate what is on display. I usually purchase a guide to read at a later date. Unfortunately, none was available. But there was a leaflet with a plan of the Museum, which is helpful. In the Museum complex, there was a small theatre where visitors can watch a water puppetry show. This bit of culture, while entertaining, was lost on me! However, I do have video……

Buffet lunch was on the 7th floor of the 5 star Windsor Plaza Hotel, another massive windowless ballroom, but beautifully colourful, and lavishly decorated and furnished. The buffet, like that at the Sheraton in Bangkok, was “in duplicate”, along both sides of the room. Our party was allocated at least three large circular tables, all beautifully laid and inviting. There was ample choice, including excellent local cuisine. Around four “acts” provided mainly local entertainment, closing with “Auld Lang Syne”….a Vietnamese version! This was all extremely pleasant.

Afterwards, we made brief stops at the Post Office (designed by Eiffel of Tower fame) and still functioning as such, but also a major attraction, Notre Dame Cathedral (in the process of major renovation and boarded up around the outside), Reunification Hall, and the Thien Hau Temple dedicated to the Sea Goddess. Again, this shore excursion provided the best opportunity to see as much as possible in a day visit. I got to experience the sultry heat, the apparent chaos of the traffic, the noise, the persistence of persuasive & pestiferous street vendors, and for a while, just being in a place many will only read or hear about.

I would welcome the opportunity to go back there, as well as most of the other ports of call on this voyage.

I am afraid this is just the briefest of descriptions of a remarkable visit to Ho Chi Minh City. There are a few pictures to follow shortly.

Many thanks for reading.

David.

25th March 2018, Bangkok.

At around 8 O’clock this morning, RMS Queen Mary 2 docked at Laem Chabang, Thailand. I have heard a great deal about this country, but I usually favoured travelling west to North America rather than east to the Orient. There are so many “firsts” on this World Voyage. Only from Dubai to Southampton will I be on vaguely familiar ground, having travelled from there to Southampton in 2007. Even so, most ports of call in that last three weeks will be new to me.

Today, I set foot on Thailand soil for, again, the first time. I had booked a nine hour “Bangkok in a Day” excursion, which I did wonder how I would cope with, given the year round hot and humid climate. Thirty seven of us met at 08.45hrs in the Royal Court Theatre. We were soon escorted via the usual immigration procedures, to our air conditioned coach. Already, outside, it was very warm. I brought a large bottle of chilled water to last me the day.

The journey to Bangkok mostly by motorway was around two and a half hours. Apart from a few minor hills near the beginning of the journey, the scenery was unremarkable. During the day, we visited the Emerald Buddha Temple, the Grand Palace, and the Golden Buddha as well as the inevitable call at a jewellery store where a complimentary soft drink might entice one to do spectacular business. Lunch took the form of a buffet at a leading five star hotel. The hotel was fabulous, but the catering did not thrill likewise, and to allow time for the jewellery store visit, we were allowed a mere forty minutes for lunch. The tour guide worked very hard and conscientiously and was very caring. Two small children were brought by their parents on what for everybody was a long and hard day out. Our guide was brilliant with this young family. It was hot, and very slightly overcast. The city pollution did not seem bad, but it was a Sunday. Perhaps the place wasn’t as busy as it might be, but the temples and Palace was. We arrived back well after 7pm after a day which I enjoyed much more than I was expecting to.

I joined my table companions for dinner in the Britannia Restaurant at just after 8.30. For once, I wasn’t the last to arrive; I usually am. We discussed our various days; while I enthused about my brief glimpse of Bangkok, the rest exchanged their shopping and beach experiences. I joined the two ladies and Martin in the theatre for an entertaining magic and comedy show. This was a slick, fluent and confident performance which raised more than a few laughs and eyebrows! The days are passing at an alarming rate; today was number 75, as well as being Palm Sunday.

Many thanks for reading; pictures to follow.

All the best, David.

23rd March. Singapore.

It ain’t half hot here! Yesterday morning at approximately 02.51 hrs, we crossed the Equator back into the northern hemisphere. I stayed awake with hope of capturing the ship’s position broadcast on channel 45, of 0 degrees. This didn’t quite work out, but I did get the first reading in the northern hemisphere. For some reason, I had difficulty getting off to sleep after that. Later that day, we would approach Singapore via one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes and see a continuous procession of all kinds of vessels. We docked eventually somewhere around 18.45 hrs. I chose not to disembark guessing disembarkation may involve much queuing and much waiting around. I was not wrong! Today, our Singapore Scenic Tour was an efficient way of seeing much in little time. We ascended the Sands Skypark to the observation deck which afforded splendid panoramic views including the much photographed QM2. Below, are scenes from high up, taken this morning. There was ample time to take all the pictures I wanted to. We continued to the river for a cruise around the city, and then to China Town where I bought postcards, a hat and replacement reading glasses. It was now becoming very hot, a foretaste of days to come in the Far East. I shall write again soon. Many thanks for reading, David.

Farewell, Southern Hemisphere. 21st March 2028.

This morning as I write this blog, we continue north-north-west into South China Sea towards Singapore, where we arrive at an expected 18.30hrs on Friday. Right now the temperature is a welcome 82 degrees Fahrenheit. We are still just in the southern hemisphere, just 2 degrees south of the Equator. I wonder if the Captain is arranging to cross at 12.15hrs, the scheduled start of the long-tradional Crossing the Line ceremony. This will be “fun”! From our arrival at Singapore until 9th April, it will be another significant sector of the voyage as we visit Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Langkawi, and Phuket before our westward journey to Sri Lanka. This is probably the most intensive sector with ports of call on five consecutive days. I was sorry not to call at Darwin, Bali and Brunei, the latter compensated by an opportunity to visit Bangkok. However, nine consecutive days at sea did provide the opportunity to enjoy a decent length of time to relax. The daily sunsets are spectacular and there are plenty more to come. This, I think is day 71. The remainder of this cruise is still longer than any period I have been away from home…the same length as my voyage next year on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth from Vancouver via Alaska and Iceland to the UK (49 nights), thus completing my overland and sea circumnavigation of the globe. But, for the time being, Farewell Southern Hemisphere!

Greetings and thanks for reading,

David.