Blog 802. Empire Builder, awake from St. Cloud. The journey to and the first night in Chicago.

For a second time on The Empire Builder, sleep was patchy at best, but adequate and I am enjoying the third day on board.  The rising sun woke me at 06.00 hrs and I figured it was going to be a hot day.  Yesterday morning, I awoke at Whitefish MT. This morning, it was at St. Cloud MN that I started to come to life. 

I only have one serious criticism, not actually of Amtrak.  The trains are very rough riding.  I guess this is partly the wear and tear on the infrastructure caused by frequent heavy freight traffic taking its toll on the system.  The age of the passenger coaching stock may have something to do with this also.  Being close to the locomotive is also disadvantageous at night. Legislation dictates audible warning from the train at each of the very many crossings.  I shall be hearing the mournful wail of the locomotive’s whistle for months to come, usually two long blasts, one short, and two long, signifying approach to a level crossing.   Right now (11.32 hrs, 20th June, we are at Tomah WI, and will probably leave five minutes’ late.  That is pretty impressive having come from Seattle the day before yesterday.  Michael explained there was much “padding” in the schedule, but even so, this is still impressive. 

When we arrive at Chicago’s Union Station, the total distance covered from Seattle will be 2,205 miles.  States passed through on the Empire Builder are Washington, Idaho, Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Illinois. States called at on the cruise included Florida, California, and Alaska. Countries covered on this entire 74 night trip include Spain, USA, Grand Turk, Panama (through the Canal), Costa Rica, Mexico, Canada.  Empire Builder serves communities ranging from small settlements to substantial towns and four  major cities including Seattle and Chicago.  The train is full, and I am enjoying the rural areas we have passed through today.  Early summer in rural Wisconsin is lovely to see, but difficult to photograph from a fast moving train.

Here is some of that Wisconsin countryside which I attempted to photograph from the Observation Car.

Milwaukee.

As I write at 14.21 hrs, I realise this amazing 2,205 mile journey has one hour and thirty-three minutes left to run.  Even in the final ninety minutes, one realises that not only England is a green and pleasant land.  I could be cynical and surmise the fields and trees are covered in pesticides,  but really,  I haven’t a clue.  Now then; there’s something I have not seen for a very long time, railway telegraph poles. The one wire, and occasionally more, between each structure indicates they are still serving a purpose. All we need now is jointed rail and bells at the numerous level crossings to complete a vintage picture. I do love the drone of the locomotive’s warning horn, but every few seconds? In the UK, such use, especially during the night would result in prosecution!

Amtrak did not apologise for bringing us safely into Chicago Union Station around 20 minutes early! Nor did I hear any kind of didn’t we do well! unless I missed that announcement! If I have done the maths correctly, I was on the train for 47.5 hours, and not once was I bored. And I wouldn’t be a second time!

I found a taxi opposite Chicago Union Station and he sped me to the thirty seven floor Fairmont Hotel at Millennium Park. The reception lady very kindly upgraded me to a super room on the 28th floor with a fabulous view of the lake and park which I recognise from 1971! Ye Gods, 51 years ago almost to the month. I hadn’t realised that at this particular hotel, unlike at Toronto, Vancouver and Seattle, there is a $20 + tax Amenity Fee per day, not yet paid for. I protested somewhat at the reception, but was embarrassed to find that this had indeed been mentioned fully in the information pack sent by my excellent travel agent to my home, weeks ago! Humble pie in the Hotel restaurant won’t come cheap. The Fairmont did give me a very decent upgrade, and my room has probably the finest view of anywhere I have stayed.

Dining in the hotel’s Columbus bar and eatery was just what I needed. The turkey club sandwich went down rather well, along with a decaff latte. I am debating whether to take a walk tonight. I understand temperatures were in the mid 90s outside. In an air-conditioned train or hotel room, it’s hard to tell. I am slightly weary from two dodgy nights on the train, but I am tempted to explore, especially where I was 51 years ago.

One annoying thing, all the tourist suggestions at this Hotel are via a QR code!

I did wander off from the Hotel after the turkey sandwich which actually, I doubt I will be choosing again! Once outside, even after the sun had gone down, it was sweltering, just as I remember from over 50 years ago. The fountain which I can see from my room is further than I thought, and I got nowhere near! I did get to the last bars of an amazing pop concert in Millennium Park. There’s a joyous atmosphere outside and my head still thinks it’s in its twenties! My tired old body reminds me otherwise. Chicago does not disappoint. But the 37 floors of my hotel are dwarfed by the giant high rises surrounding it.

I have no plans yet for tomorrow and Wednesday. There’s a ton of stuff to see and do. But now, it’s time to get my head down.

As ever, thanks for reading. David in the Lobby of the Fairmont Chicago Millennium Park, 21.55hrs.